Jump to content

NLCbanner2024.jpg.2478be509670e60c2d6efd04834b8b47.jpg

Best cheap DSLR for AP

Mr Noble

By Mr Noble
in Discussions - Cameras

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 59
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Gina

Gina

Posted
Posted

EQMOD is software used to control the mount from computer and APT is one of several programs that can be used to automate the process of taking a series of long exposures for capturing Deep Sky Objects such as Nebulae.

Canon cameras can be fully controlled from a computer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Rustysplit

Rustysplit

Posted
Posted

If you don not want to be tied to a laptop outside, then a nikon is just as good.I use a nikon d5000. Get your self an intervalometer from ebay for £20 and you can program an imaging run. Set the length of sub, no of subs, pause between subs. Jobs a good 'un

Link to comment
Share on other sites
dave6666

dave6666

Posted
Posted

Hi guys now i am going to get ppl talking . If you r looking for a cheap camera try the Olympus e 410 or 420 as I had this up till 2 weeks ago then it gave up the ghost . Got some great pics with it but just remember it is a four thirds format but they are cheap and well built. But I did buy the Nikon d5100 and just getting use to it

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Demonperformer

Demonperformer

Posted
Posted
^^^ I assume I'll need a wedge for my CPC8 in order to be taking multiple long exposures of DSO's?

Yes and no.

You can take DSO images using an alt-az set up BUT you need to keep the exposures shortish (you will quickly discover how long exposures result in trailing - the longer the exposures the more frames you will lose) and you need to take a LOT of them (I am talking hundreds here) AND you will find that when you stack them, only the middle part of the end result is usable, as it will suffer from the effects of field rotation. On my SLT setup, I am limited to about 20s exposures (I can get 30s ones, but the reject rate goes up rapidly) and even on open clusters (which are about the easiest DSO you can image) always go for at least 100 (which is still only just over 30m total imaging time). Somewhere on the forum a couple of years ago a picture of the horsehead nebula taken with 2 second (no, I haven't missed out a zero) exposures was posted. Was a real eye-opener to me as to what COULD be achieved without an EQ mount.

With an EQ mount, none of these limitations apply and you can start to reach the limits of your camera equipment/conditions/LP.

HTH

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Mr Noble

Mr Noble

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thank you for the tips Demonperformer. Most useful to know.

TBH, it sounds like its going to be a lot simpler to go for a wedge to start with!

I'm amazed that it requires so much exposure time actually.

In the past, I've got some pretty great milky way photos just with a good DSLR set to bulb for 30 seconds on a tripod (no scope at all)(in a very dark site on holiday!)

I'm pretty sure that a 30 second exposure through the EP of a glob or bright DSO would give a bright image, especially if it was made up of 10 x 3 second exposures or maybe 3 x 10 second ones. No?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Demonperformer

Demonperformer

Posted
Posted

Certainly individual subs of upto 30s will give you an image - I once spent an evening doing a load of Messiers at 4x20s subs each, they show an image, but they show very little in the way of detail, just really recording that they are there and where they are in relation to the local starfield.

I would say suck it and see. If the results you get from short exposures meet your requirements then go with that. Don't fall into the trap of thinking you have to produce the same results some people manage on SGL to get some satisfaction. They do spend hours per picture. You are in competition with no one but yourself and the object you are imaging.

HTH

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Coco

Coco

Posted
Posted
Luke, I'm not so sure about your comparison.

I believe the 1100 has the same sensor as the 450 but better correction. The 1000 has an older sensor?

Ditto... :)

And for some strange reason the 450D sells for more money ... I have no idea why.:p

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
Barlivia

Barlivia

Posted
Posted

Was thinking of buying the 450D its for sale second hand at €320. I've a cpc 800 and haven't any experience on astrophotography. Without a wedge am I going to frustrate the life out of myself?? I realise it would be perfect for solar system photography but I'd love to photograph messier objects ideally so would I be able to capture sharp images of them

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Gullsrock

Gullsrock

Posted
Posted

Help - I used to think I was reasonably intelligent

I assume mirror lock is the ability to hold the mirror out of the way before processing and I can see the advantage of this in short exposures however what are APT and Amp Glow?

To be honest if Gina says the 1100D is good enough for her it will do for me!

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Yoddha

Yoddha

Posted
Posted

APT stands for "Astro Photography Tool - APT" it is built to help in camera control and imaging automation and so on... Mr.Noble posted a link to my site above. There you can find more info.

Some parts of the camera sensor can become heated and the result is concentrated red (mostly) noise in parts of the image - lower right corner, middle left and so on - this is called apm glow. Older models 20D and 350D suffers from imperfection which can be cured almost completely with the help of a dark frames. Newer models show apm-glow when a long exposure image is made without stopping the LiveView first...

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Yoddha

Yoddha

Posted
Posted

You are welcome Rob!

The stock DSLR cameras has filter that cuts the main part of the H-alpha line of the spectrum - it is significant part of the red (emission) nebulae. The modification is to remove this filter or to replace it with one that doesn't cut this part of the spectrum. For 20D, 350D, 400D is required to remove/replace the whole filter. For 1000D and later the filter is multilayer and is enough to remove only one layer.

A side effect of the modification is that day-time images require custom white balance and lens auto-focus will not work very well...

If your focus is on galaxies, clusters and reflection nebulae it is not mandatory to modify the camera, but sooner or later most of the DSLRs used for astro-photography falls under the knife :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Gullsrock

Gullsrock

Posted
Posted

Much appreciated thanks. On another posting I have been advised that my C9.25 at a f10 would need an auto guider so I may have to look at this first and come back to a DSLR later when funds permit. However will an unguided DSLR be suitable for planetary imaging

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.