Gina's Observatory

[Freff]

Hi Tony. Not taken any photos yet but I can tell you that the felt is black or very dark grey and has sand on both sides. The thickness appears to be about a millimetre. I'll probably take photos tomorrow. Some photos I've seen of shed felt seem to show one side as smooth.

It sounds like you have this type of felt. It's under tiling felt. 1F (BS747 Type 1F) Roofing Felt | eBay

[Gina]

It sounds like you have this type of felt. It's under tiling felt. 1F (BS747 Type 1F) Roofing Felt | eBay

I think you're probably right. So... I need to buy roofing... plus adhesive etc.

[Macavity]

I know I shouldn't, but (Remembering the Two Ronnies!):

One day she went into a department store,

And she said to the guy who was stood by the door,

I need some material to make a new belt,

Perhaps you can tell me where I can GET FELT

We knew what she meant, we knew what she meant,

We heard what she said but we knew what she meant.

I DO KNOW, from laying conventional FELT on my Alexander's Observatory, that the *grit* gets everywhere! Watch your eyes, respiratory tract - Notably any U-section roof rolling tracks etc.

[Gina]

Been doing some research on shed felt and adhesive. Reading reviews of different makes etc. Looks like a minefield! While much of it seems fine for a year or two, it's not as good as expected long term. Really good quality products seem OK but cost quite a lot. Best seems to involve the two layer system. My warm room roof would need 3 widths of felt to cover it with two joins. So not a quick job.

OTOH the rubber one piece system is very simple and quick - you don't even need to wait for the adhesive to dry before doing the edges. So I've ordered a shed kit for a total of just under eighty quid. I think the extra ten or twenty quid over best felt is worth it for the convenience alone.

[Gina]

I know I shouldn't, but (Remembering the Two Ronnies!):

One day she went into a department store, Apparently neither simple or quick.

And she said to the guy who was stood by the door,

I need some material to make a new belt,

Perhaps you can tell me where I can GET FELT

We knew what she meant, we knew what she meant,

We heard what she said but we knew what she meant.

Good one

I DO KNOW, from laying conventional FELT on my Alexander's Observatory, that the *grit* gets everywhere! Watch your eyes, respiratory tract - Notably any U-section roof rolling tracks etc.

I see! I'm now even more convinced that I did right in going for the rubber option

[Freff]

Gina I think you have made up your mind.

After all your research you must go with what YOU feel is right. At the end of the day it's piece of mind.

[Gina]

Gina I think you have made up your mind.

Indeed I have

After all your research you must go with what YOU feel is right. At the end of the day it's piece of mind.

Yes, you're right

[Aoraki]

Been doing some research on shed felt and adhesive. Reading reviews of different makes etc. Looks like a minefield! While much of it seems fine for a year or two, it's not as good as expected long term. Really good quality products seem OK but cost quite a lot. Best seems to involve the two layer system. My warm room roof would need 3 widths of felt to cover it with two joins. So not a quick job.

OTOH the rubber one piece system is very simple and quick - you don't even need to wait for the adhesive to dry before doing the edges. So I've ordered a shed kit for a total of just under eighty quid. I think the extra ten or twenty quid over best felt is worth it for the convenience alone.

I belive that's the right decision, my large packet of rubber arrived today (oh er missus!), I'll let you know how I get on with it!

[Gina]

My package of rubber and adhesive arrived today - looks good.

[Freff]

My wife just read your last post Gina, and wondered what the 'ell, what site have I subscribed to now.

[Gina]

Maybe I should have specified "roofing"

[Gina]

Having put the rubber roofing on my warm room roof I can now report on how good a solution it was

It was relatively easy to fit and the rubber is nice and pliable with no chance of cracking or breaking. I'm very pleased with my decision to use it and for Aoraki's original post about it (I hope I'm right about that). The result looks nice and tidy

[malc-c]

Gina,

Your build is progressing well. What guarantee comes with the rubber roofing? My experience with rubberised products are that with the constant heat, UV etc they tend to perish or crack. I guess these days with modern treatments they last as long if not longer than top quality roofing felt (mine was 15 year G'tee)

[Aoraki]

Malcolm, Rubber4roofs say "50 year life expectancy" but to be honest I haven't seen a specific guarantee on their website. That said, it didn't stop me buying from them and I'm more than impressed with the service and products supplied.

[Gina]

Same here. They do specifically state that it's UV proof and won't crack etc. If it lasts half the time they say I shall be very happy (if I'm still around ). And the ease of application and appearance makes it well worth it IMO.

[Gina]

Another design change as a result of practical considerations that weren't apparent before actual build.

As mentioned in my build thread, I've changed the fold down flap on the end wall of the obsy to hinge inwards rather than outwards. I thought I'd got it all worked out but when I took a hinge and offered it up to the shiplap it became clear that having the hinges on the outside wasn't going to work. So with the much simpler arrangement of the hinges on the inside of the frames, the flap opens inwards. It will be much easier to handle than reaching outside and struggling with a two foot wide fairly heavy flap. (It will be heavy when the shiplap is on it!). The flap will clear the mount by a foot which I think will be adequate.

I've also been thinking about the light within the building. There will be times in the daytime when I have the roof closed and want to set up the scope or associated kit. Now artificial light is second best and it seems daft to have to use it when there's perfectly good daylight outside. I know some will come in through the dividing wall window but I'm thinking of having a window in the obsy section of the building.

Various possibilities exist for windows. Roof, east wall, north wall or south wall. The walls can be further divided into the fixed lower part and the roll off or flap top part. I'm rejecting the roof as I don't know of transparent roofing of the same size profile as the bitumen, and I don't want too much sunshine coming in and warming it up. I think I can rule out the south side for the same reason - it faces the sun most of the day and still gets the evening sun as it faces slightly west of south.

This leaves the east and north walls and I think a window facing slightly east of north might be quite a good idea. Now, a window in the fixed north wall would have to fit between the uprights and would need interfacing with the shiplap (window frame). (Same applies to either part of the east wall.)

Alternatively, I could put some acrylic sheet in the long and narrow gap between the roll off carriage and the apex roof. This would face more of the sky than a window (or windows) lower down so should give more light than a lower one. Plus light high up is generally better than low down. The north side roll off framework is already very rigid and won't need any more strengthening in itself. I think this would present the least work option too

These are just my thoughts ATM - there may well be considerations I haven't thought of.

My goodness, I have been waffling on!

[Gina]

BTW - If anyone is wondering why I haven't posted a SketchUp model recently, it's not that I've given up on SketchUp entirely but I am having a few problems with it. Principally losing sections of the model and not realising it until later. Then I have to go back to an earlier saved file and import the relevant bits - a time consuming bore!

I'm still using it in combination with the real thing and I'll post an updated model later when I've incorporated the new mods and put back all the missing bits. I'm not sure it's all that helpful to post interim versions anyway - other than to question a particular design point.

[fwm891]

Build it - fudge the drawings later

[Gina]

Build it - fudge the drawings later

Precisely!!

[pritc]

Build it - fudge the drawings later

Gina,

Do not waste your time and effort on SketchUp drawings.

SketchUp is great for early designing but nothing beats seeing the real thing going up.

No two designs are ever the same anyway.

People get enough ideas from photo's

Wayne

[Gina]

Gina,

Do not waste your time and effort on SketchUp drawings.

SketchUp is great for early designing but nothing beats seeing the real thing going up.

No two designs are ever the same anyway.

People get enough ideas from photo's

Wayne

I agree with you there. I'm now using SketchUp for odd details to get things straight in my mind. The model has become a fragmented collection of parts of the design. The software has great potential but also has serious failings IMO. It is very time consuming and sometimes very frustrating.

[Gina]

Nearly got to the stage of doing the outer door on my obsy build and considering how to hang it.

Two possibilities :-

1. Hung on the RHS (see pic attached) and opening outwards. This would mean a slightly lower doorway (about 5'7") to clear the guttering.

2. Hung on LHS and opening inwards. Doorway headroom now limited by guttering at about an inch or so higher (about 5'8").

I think the advantages of the door opening outwards outweigh the additional headroom through the doorway but your opinions are welcome.

[yesyes]

Gina, if you are making the door yourself allowing you to make it any height you want, I would recommend having it open it to the outside giving your a bit more room inside.

If you get a ready one, you would have to see what sizes / heights they come in.

[Gina]

Gina, if you are making the door yourself allowing you to make it any height you want, I would recommend having it open it to the outside giving your a bit more room inside.

If you get a ready one, you would have to see what sizes / heights they come in.

Yes, I'll be making it myself. A ready made one, although seeming the easier option, would need cutting down and wouldn't match the rest very well. I'll be making up the frame, cladding it with shiplap on the outside and plywood on the inside with polystyrene insulation inside. This ties in with the overall principle of everything scratch made.

You are confirming my thoughts

[Aoraki]

Absolutely opening outwards, you'll gain nine square feet internally. Or loose nine square feet if the door opens inwards. Space is at a premium!