Gina's Observatory

[Macavity]

I certainly found storm-proofing a recessed, inward-opening, door a challenge. It seems much more intuitive to have "exteriors" flush - And then the rain just runs downwards. Any gaps at the bottom and sides of the door can be overlapped, to avoid rain being "sucked in" by (differential?) wind pressure...

[Gina]

Opening outwards it will be

Thank you for your replies

[Freff]

I have chosen to have my door opening in. The space gained opening out is minimal, you still need space behind it to get in and movability.

The main reason I have mine opening in is for security. It is much harder to pry a door in than out. Also, locks and hinges can be protected with door stop, anti pry plate etc.

Any door fitted properly should be watertight regardless of which way it's fitted. A door with a proper threshold and weatherboard is essential for water run off.

[Gina]

I have chosen to have my door opening in. The space gained opening out is minimal, you still need space behind it to get in and movability.

True, I'd thought of that.

The main reason I have mine opening in is for security. It is much harder to pry a door in than out. Also, locks and hinges can be protected with door stop, anti pry plate etc.

That surprises me, I would have thought it was easier to bash a door inwards than to pry it outwards. I don't think security is too much of an issue here. At least, not for a garden shed, even if it is a bit "funny looking"

Any door fitted properly should be watertight regardless of which way it's fitted. A door with a proper threshold and weatherboard is essential for water run off.

Yes may be, but I think it's easier to do it with a door that opens outwards. I've installed both types and the outward opening ones were definitely easier. A large overlap at the bottom helps stop rain blowing in even if the seal is not perfect.

[Freff]

Hi Gina

I'm sure you are right if you are on a drug raid, , but in the middle of the night and as silent as possible prying is probably the way I'd do it.

I think it is easier to hang it outwards to stop rain per say, but for me I wanted to protect the entrance floor/step and underlying frame timbers from wet and wear.

I made a hardwood threshold with a steel stop routed down the centre, which stops any rain ingress. The threshold directs the rain away from that area. I'll add the door stops and door weather board this week.

At the end of the day it's what's best for you.

[Bizibilder]

Opening outwards - reasons as above Plus the fact that it much easier to seal against water ingress - a simple inner batten is enough - the door closes against it (use a foam draftproof seal, waterproof type, on all four sides) and water can't get in. Here's one I made (from timber and plywood) earlier: (It is straight! Its the camera angle making it all look a bit wonky!)

[Gina]

Absolutely! Except I was thinking of using D shaped weatherproofing strip.

[Bizibilder]

Beware the "D" and "P" shaped stuff (in grey or brown "EDPM rubber") - the self adhesive glue is not truly waterproof!! Go for the proper waterproof stuff:

Extra Thick Weatherstrip 10mm x 7m Black | Screwfix.com

It sticks like well done spaghetti to the kitchen wall!

[Gina]

Beware the "D" and "P" shaped stuff (in grey or brown "EDPM rubber") - the self adhesive glue is not truly waterproof!! Go for the proper waterproof stuff:

Extra Thick Weatherstrip 10mm x 7m Black | Screwfix.com

It sticks like well done spaghetti to the kitchen wall!

Ah yes, that looks good Thank you

[Aoraki]

I have chosen to have my door opening in. The space gained opening out is minimal, you still need space behind it to get in and movability.

The main reason I have mine opening in is for security. It is much harder to pry a door in than out. Also, locks and hinges can be protected with door stop, anti pry plate etc.

.

Absolutly not true! Very very easy to kick a door in, harder to open one out as handles will/should come off first. Anti pry plates will only work well on out ward opening doors.

[Gina]

I've settled for having my door opening outwards. Security is poor on a wooden shed anyway, just prize of a few bits of shiplap! I don't think security want to be too obvious or it shouts "I'M HOUSING VALUABLE KIT". ATN I'm fitting external T hinges as the door will be pretty heavy.

Now I'm pondering another conundrum Whether to have shiplap protruding beyond the door frame and resting up against the door jamb or to screw a strip of wood to the door door frame so that provides the overlap and the shiplap finishes an inch or so in from the frame.

With the shiplap sticking out it would almost but up against a second 3" strip of wood screwed to the main frame of the shed. Or I could get some 6" wide wood for the corner.

Should add... I'm not sure yet what fastening I'm going to use for the door.

[malc-c]

As you say, having a really strong secure door on what amounts to a large shed where a crowbar can easily pull off the shiplap makes it a bit irrelevant. Security measures have been covered in other threads, so I won't duplicate it here, and each circumstances is different, but it's best just to say that it's worth trying to make the opportunist thieve life difficult as possible.

[Gina]

As you say, having a really strong secure door on what amounts to a large shed where a crowbar can easily pull off the shiplap makes it a bit irrelevant. Security measures have been covered in other threads, so I won't duplicate it here, and each circumstances is different, but it's best just to say that it's worth trying to make the opportunist thieve life difficult as possible.

Agreed

[Freff]

Absolutly not true! Very very easy to kick a door in, harder to open one out as handles will/should come off first. Anti pry plates will only work well on out ward opening doors.

Nearly every private domestic dwelling have doors that open inwards. The reason for this is weather sealing and security.

Most properly hung doors have a gap around then for obvious reasons. With an inward opening door this gap is covered by a door stop or reveal, making it difficult for water ingress or a pry bar/screwdriver.

Outward doors generally rely on a seal against the inside face of the door stopping the water AFTER it has passed the edge of the door, running out of seep holes in the threshold.

Outward opening doors are primarily used on public buildings for safety reasons. Where large numbers of people need to be moved out in a hurry. An outward door would remain open against the flow of people.

Outward doors usually have the hinges exposed with the hinge pin vulnerable to removal, and the lock visible through the gap.

Of course a door can be kicked in easier on an inward opening door. There is little one can do against brute force by an opportunist thief.

But the ones I'm trying to protect against are the ones who sneak about silently in the dead of night. The one who watches your property and plans a break in. Nobody is going to smash into your property at night and spend time unbolting your scope.

Yes there are exceptions to the rule. My thoughts were based on a shed type build/conversion, with general materials and sometimes a shoe string budget.

[Gina]

With a standard door as used for houses etc. the door has a smooth surface which fits in to the door frame to provide a seal. This is not possible if the door is shiplap faced unless it has a frame surrounding the shiplap. In my case the obsy is a shed and wants to look more or less like a common garden shed. Not that anyone is likely to see it where it is, except from half a mile away.

[Gina]

I've been thinking about the door overlap - shiplap v solid wood - and I think I'll go for the solid wood. Might put a column of small pieces of shiplap between the door and the corner piece. These would be 3.5" wide. The wood strip on the door being 3" wide, matching the corner piece and having 2" width onto the door frame for solid fixing.

[Freff]

With a standard door as used for houses etc. the door has a smooth surface which fits in to the door frame to provide a seal. This is not possible if the door is shiplap faced unless it has a frame surrounding the shiplap. In my case the obsy is a shed and wants to look more or less like a common garden shed. Not that anyone is likely to see it where it is, except from half a mile away.

I know what you mean Gina, that's why I used T&G vertically. Same principle as shiplap but on a smaller scale without looking out of place.

This is how I constructed mine. I live in a more crime riddled area than you unfortunately.

[RogerTheDodger]

I have been on several house raids with the Police where we have used forced entry - they really hate outward opening doors...

[Freff]

I have been on several house raids with the Police where we have used forced entry - they really hate outward opening doors...

I didn't have in mind a 6 foot 250lb bobby swinging a 50lb steel persuader.

[Gina]

I know what you mean Gina, that's why I used T&G vertically. Same principle as shiplap but on a smaller scale without looking out of place.

I considered using T&G vertically but thought horizontal shiplap would look better. Mind you, vertical boards would mean less work, but I worked out my timber requirements based on shiplap on the door so I don't have any floorboards spare other than numerous offcuts less than the height of the door. I think shiplap is probably a better choice for exterior use.

[pritc]

As you probably already know,Gina.

I went for a outward opening,horizontal shiplap door.

I think it blends in brilliantly.

Never ever had a single leak!!

For the bottom rain deflector strip,I just cut and shaped a spare cutoff piece of shiplap.

I smeared the back with some silicone before nailing it on to the door.

Wayne

[fwm891]

QUOTE***Outward doors generally rely on a seal against the inside face of the door stopping the water AFTER it has passed the edge of the door, running out of seep holes in the threshold.***QUOTE

In the same way that a window cill uses a drip groove underneath the front edge so you can add a drip groove to the vertical door frame. By breaking the capillary action of the narrow gap between the door and door frame water does not then go all the way to the door stop before travelling downwards. A vertical drip groove will drop the water well away from the door stop and onto the threshold material.

[Gina]

As you probably already know,Gina.

I went for a outward opening,horizontal shiplap door.

I think it blends in brilliantly.

Never ever had a single leak!!

For the bottom rain deflector strip,I just cut and shaped a spare cutoff piece of shiplap.

I smeared the back with some silicone before nailing it on to the door.

Wayne

Blends in very well, I agree - nice job

[Gina]

QUOTE***Outward doors generally rely on a seal against the inside face of the door stopping the water AFTER it has passed the edge of the door, running out of seep holes in the threshold.***QUOTE

In the same way that a window cill uses a drip groove underneath the front edge so you can add a drip groove to the vertical door frame. By breaking the capillary action of the narrow gap between the door and door frame water does not then go all the way to the door stop before travelling downwards. A vertical drip groove will drop the water well away from the door stop and onto the threshold material.

That's a good idea I don't think the wet will stand much chance of getting in by the time I've finished