barbulo

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Hi and welcome to SGL!

As I’ve been told several times, a good resolution for beginners, like myself, is 1.5”-2”/px. With an accurate guiding and a really good seeing you could aim at 1”-1.5”. Never below. In your case, binning at 2x2 would give you a 1.7”/px, a good starting point. HTH

Welcome to SGL @darthmoo After the precise explanation of vlaiv, as always, you can try astronomy.tools to experiment with different configurations. Use visual mode for eyepieces calculations and imaging mode for cameras’.

The only cheaper solutions I know about are DIY projects. If you feel comfortable with arduino environment, you can google it. Some of them are even compatible with ASCOM protocol.

The good (or bad) point about AP is that you can do it as much complicated and expensive as you want (read: can, be allowed…). My approach to backyard AP has been to invest in a fair good mount (went for a EQ6-R Pro which supports a moderate payload with an acceptable guiding performance), a Newtonian scope (SW PDS series are fast enough with its f/5, adequate focuser for AP and low price), a DSLR camera (went for a Canon 600D, nowadays being astromodified), electronic focuser (ZWO EAF 5V) and guiding scope with a ZWO 224MC (this camera can be used for planetary too). All this is connected to a laptop through a powered USB hub, and the laptop remotely accessed from another computer using Team-Viewer. Outside, I just set up the gear, polar align the mount and focus the guide scope. The rest of the workflow can be done remotely. Not taking into account the computers, my total investment has been around 2500€. You can substitute the laptop with a powered usb cable or another wireless solution: ASIAIR, Raspberry Pi… I you want to go to a permanent setup, you’d need an observatory.

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Any USB 2.0 or 3.0. I use it through a powered USB hub.

That’s correct. However, the 12v version is discontinued. You might find it in the 2nd hand market. Personally I’d recommend the 5v version since you’ll have just one cable (the 12v model needs a power adapter apart from the usb data cable). HTH

Different framing: I like it. I’m far from being an expert in AP but there must be more data hidden in that image. If you upload the original FIT file (result after stacking) I’m pretty sure you’ll see what real experts can do with it.

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Same issue in a 200PDS with a 600D. Tape helped but I ordered a Baader Clicklock to fix it properly. We'll see.

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Good one! The coma corrector and a precise guiding will boost the quality (even more) 😉

Hi David. I can't speak for the 2000D but I use an older APS-C size camera (600D) and its sweet point is said to be at ISO 800 when used at primary focus (no lenses between the cam and the scope). I use that ISO and exposures between 120 and 180 seconds. Don't forget to select RAW format for the output; otherwise you will lose a lot of valuable data. To control the camera I use a Windows-based software called APT (AstroPhotography Tool). There are many others but I feel comfortable with this one. Regarding the WiFi feature, I don't know if it is very convenient for astrophotography: I use a usb data cable to the PC and a dummy battery connected to the power grid. I wish you lots of fun with your new camera and clear skies!

Hi and welcome to SGL.

Hi and welcome to the Lounge! Good gear to start with!

Welcome to SGL!

Hi and welcome to SGL

Hi and welcome to the Lounge!

When doing some testing last night with my gear, our dear moon appeared in my FOV, so I decided to give a try with the Canon 600D. I've taken pictures before (actually videos) with my ASI224MC but never with a DSLR. This image is the result from stacking x15 subs (at ISO800 in Av mode -1/640s exposures-) with AS!3 and processing the outcome with RegiStax and PS. Maybe a lower ISO could have prevented overexposing (like Tycho crater). Comments and advice are appreciated.

If you are using EKOS, you can switch the tracking on and the select the track mode in the “INDI Control Panel”, “Telescope” tab, “Main Control” tab. EQDIR usb cable is the best option. HTH

Hi and welcome to SGL. Is your mount in tracking mode? PHD2 sends orders to the mount to correct the actual movement. Be sure your mount is in tracking mode at sideral rate.

Solved!! The coma was caused by a misalignment in the optical train. The MPCC’s barrel, when tightened with the 2 thumbscrews of the eyepiece holder (uneven pressure along the axis), lied unsquared in the focuser. Consequently, the camera’s sensor was not perpendicular to the light path. Temporary solution: gentle amount of Teflon tape in the CC barrel so it (and the camera) fits tightly enough and perfectly squared in the focuser. Permanent solution (still to come*): drill a third hole and screw-in a third thumbscrew in the eyepiece holder, 120º apart from the others. This is the result of yesterday’s test: * THIS IS EMBARRASSING: Yesterday I drilled the third hole in the focuser (turned out to be made of aluminum). When forcing the thumbscrew into the orifice (too narrow), it broke, leaving a piece inside the hole. Fortunately, the inner part of the ring is unobstructed, so the temporary solution is still available. Therefore, this “permanent solution” has been delayed until I find a new eyepiece holder and get it drilled by a profesional.

You have to set "sideral rate" as tracking speed and PHD does the fine adjustments.