barbulo

Welcome to SGL!

Hi all, I would like to test KSTARS/EKOS environment and I wonder how the focus module would perform with a DSLR+EAF combo. Currently obtaining fairly good focus with 9-10 images with APT. The setup is: RPi4B with INDIGOSKY and remote instance of KSTARS/EKOS. Comments on this would be highly appreciated.

and sound contradictory to me. 🤷‍♂️

No, just the server. Interesting. I thought that the communication lag between the Pi and the guiding software (Pi wifi is awful) might affect the performance. Could you point to the source?

Sorry, I meant ASCOM, not EQMOD. ALPACA sounds good but DSLR capability still not implemented.

I see INDIGOSKY as an alternative to EQMOD ASCOM and aimed mainly to MacOS and Linux, although you can use the control in any OS through a web browser. IMO, the perfect match for the INDIGOSKY server running on a Pi is KSTARS/EKOS in a Mac. That will be my next movement. Some day. Currently using EQMOD ASCOM drivers and APT in a laptop with W10 in the backyard, and remote control from a desktop. I tried INDIGOSKY server in a Pi from APT in W10 but the INDI-DSLR drivers are not implemented yet in APT. 😢 Another option is to load ASTROBERRY in the Pi (is free and has KSTARS/EKOS installed) and control the Pi from any OS web browser.

Welcome to SGL!

Welcome to the Lounge!

Hi and welcome to SGL

Hi and welcome to the Lounge!

Same for the EQ6-R Pro. I don't know if it is a Skywatcher thing or maybe temperature related. There were not many clear and warm nights with enough astro-darkness here in Germany last summer, so don't have enough facts. Gears' grease density could be the reason though.

Welcome back to SGL! You will find here tons of answers to your questions. One thing I doubt has changed in 10 years is that this hobby is money-driven.

New owner of this tiny set of mirrors here! After searching for some time, the good guys at APM-Telescopes managed to get a couple of units of the 130PDS, and there I was this afternoon to get the first one! I have been inspired by this thread while looking for an affordable scope with shorter FL (to increase the "/px ratio a bit). And here it is! Tomorrow I will check the collimation and will try to mount all the attachments (imaging, guiding and focusing gear). I am afraid the balancing is going to be tricky, but I will surely find a solution. First light to be posted ASAP. Thanks to all for your involuntary motivation. PS: honestly, I haven't been able to read all the posts; I gave up around page 60 😔

I use 5 or 10 seconds @ ISO 1600

I’ve never used that software, but when I experience faults when platesolving in APT it is because I failed to input the correct data (FL, pixel and sensor size…).

With your OTA (1500mm FL) you would rather do planetary mainly because the narrow FoV. The 244 is proven a good camera in that arena.

Hi and welcome to the Lounge!

LST stands for Local Sidereal Time. In mi view, when the mount is parked with its axis pointing to the NCP, the RA should be 00h (or 24h), DEC 90deg and ALT=your latitude. However, the AZ value varies with time, so that's when the LST comes into the formula (maybe one of the many experts around could tell us how). You can do a quick check overlying both equatorial and azimuthal grids in your stellarium software and looking at the NCP while moving the time slider. You will notice that the NCP coincides with the 0.0deg AZ only twice a day.

Correct, but the OP is looking for a color camera.

And why not the ASI224MC or the ASI462MC (evolution of the 290)? What you want for planetary is a high capture speed ("lucky imaging" is the technique), so 244 or 462 should be your targets (290 is discontinued but you may find some stock out there). As far as I know, the sampling rate is determined by the pixel size not by the sensor size. Bigger pixels = higher sampling rates. Besides, higher resolutions = bigger/heavier images = lower capture speeds. Although all of the above have ST4 ports, you can use the camera for guiding using its USB port: camera -> computer -> mount. IMHO it is the best configuration since you will have one less cable. Using the ST4 you would have the same connections as before plus the camera->mount (ST4). Hope This Helps

Hi and welcome to the Lounge!

Welcome to SGL. I wish you lots of fun regardless the equipment you choose.

Welcome to SGL and, what a “starter kit”! Good gear you’ve got there! Enjoy and remember no question is nonsense (except mine).

If the coma effect is not even, I would say is the latter. Try the third thumbscrew solution (drilling the ring) or the compression ring/ClickLock one. That should get rid of the tilt (gravity is a tough adversary ⬇️ too).

This is the first (although short) image taken with my rig. Only 10 usable lights of 180s@ISO800 (calibrated with flats and bias) taken with a modded 600D + clip UHC + MPCC. This is my definitive setup for the time being, so I hope it lets me grow up in this hobby. My comments: - Short integration time due to weather. ☁️☁️☁️ - Image processing skills very improvable. I’ve tried to boost the details but the noise comes out (obvious with this integration time). - Thinking about covering the primary mirror clips. I have read it might help to reduce the halo around the brightest stars. - I managed to almost contain both coma and tilt with MPCC and ClickLock respectively, but the room left to focus inwards is almos gone (focus position around 1000 steps in the EAF). I tried to rise the primary mirror but there is no more room unless I change the thumbscrews. Any other suggestion? Moreover, the the focuser’s drawtube peeps out around 4cm inside the OTA. Does this affect to the image? Thank you very much for looking and please post your comments and pieces of advice. JR