M40

Hello eclenic and welcome to the forum. I changed from the 200P for much the same reasons as you in that each time I moved it, I was getting more concerned about dropping it. I moved to the skymax180 on an HEQ5 mount. I keep and move this in basically three elements, the mount and tripod, the OTA and the weights. I would not attempt to move it as a complete item. It is also quite a learning curve going from the DOB to a goto type mount, you have to level the thing and learn about stuff like polar alignment 🤔. Keeping it in your garage is a big plus as the OTA is already outside you are not too concerned about temperature, so once you get into it, probably from start to looking through the eyepiece is about 30 minutes, that's my record anyway 🤣 . I am with you on the tracking, with the DOB you realise just how fast everything moves so the tracking from my point of view made the costs of the upgrade well worth it. As far as better views go, can I suggest that you use the first light optics FOV tool. Pick an object you would like to observe or have observed through the 200P using an eyepiece you already have, then pick an alternative telescope using the same eyepiece to see how they compare. Going again, I must admit that I would look closely at the stellalyra on an eq mount. I like the idea of the fixed primary mirror, but I also like the fact that the sealed optics of the SCT/MAK reduces concerns about dust and dew. HTH

I like topics like this, straight forward question, straight forward answers and you always learn something. I think it's been covered very well in the previous answers so my simple comparison between the Skymax 180 and the C8 OTA: the MAK is heavier, has a longer focal length and is cheaper. You can get specific collimation knobs for the SCT which should tell you something giving a plus for the Mak as I've never had to collimate it. Negative for the Mak, reducers don't work when fitted at the visual back but do at the eyepiece so you are more or less stuck with the Focal Length. I also added a second focuser for the Skymax as the mirror flop was an issue for me. As mentioned earlier, if mirror flop is not so much of a problem on the MAK, I would definitely need to budget for one on the C8. Enjoy

They look interesting, let us know how you get on.

This is going to be an interesting topic to see what people use. I have bought and tried a few different brands of touch screen type thermal gloves and each time I have to take one off to adjust stuff. So, this has led me to my so far winning combo of a pair of normal gloves with a pair of disposable gloves underneath. I pulled off part of the index finger on one disposable glove. When I need to adjust stuff, I just take off one normal glove leaving the disposable in place and have the ability to change stuff. Works for me....so far... 🤣

Brilliant Magnus, dread to think how many hours you have spent sorting that lot out for all. If I have the math right, F2 is 118mm co-incidentally the same as the back focus at 2700 FL; and the curvature of the primary mirror is 944mm radius. Hopefully someone will correct me if I am wrong 🤪 All the best. Les

+1 for the Baader Hyperion Zoom 👍

👍 You will find with this hobby that the more you learn, the less you know so enjoy the massive learning curve Might be worth dropping first light optics a line as they will be able to give you a clue as to delivery dates etc. Also keep your eye on the for sale section on the site, there is an HEQ5 for sale at the moment but it has had an upgrade carried out so is a little on the expensive side. First class tips from dweller25, I keep my telescope covered and in the shed so temperature hasn't been a challenge for me; a dew shield is a definite requirement with the skymax.

Apologies for being vague. But I think we both know the limitations of the telescope, by which time the limitations of the mount would also be known.

Hello and welcome to the site. I have that telescope and if your budget can stretch just that little bit to the HEQ5 pro then the mount is capable of anything reasonable like a DSLR camera, larger eyepiece, finders etc upto a total of approx 18.5Kgs that you may throw at it in the future. Time is on your side in that most stuff is out of stock and on longish deliveries so you have plenty of time to look around. There is a wealth of knowledge here, what one person doesn't know, someone else definitely will so do not be concerned about asking any questions that are very likely to pop up in the future. Enjoy

No such thing as a dumb question, just dumb people like me that are not sure how to answer it I am going to guess at the answer as follows.... not relevant. If you get the synscan app (either synscan or synscan pro dependent on your mount), the app should be able to give you all the info the handset needs. True North Offset is not in the info hence the answer not relevant. Hope it helps.

Hello MaJiC79, the challenge with all polar scopes is that the info is very thin for all of them so more than a couple of online videos later and you may be one step forward in understanding what it all means. As I understand it, if you didn’t have or couldn’t use the polar scope you would need to use the setting scales. As you have a polar scope you can largely ignore them so just use the setting scales to set the mount home position. Thinking of the polar scope itself, don’t worry about the type of reticule pattern you have just try to understand what the pattern requires. The reticule in my polar scope has the numbers 0, 3, 6 and 9 as in a clock face with three rings, nothing like the info that came with the thing. First step is to make sure the polar scope is aligned with the mount correctly. During daylight, find an object that you can focus on, 50 - 100M away should be fine. Center the object in the polar scope, then rotate the mount in the RA axis by hand through the full 360'. The centered object should remain in the crosshairs through the full rotation. That tells you that the polar scope is aligned with the mount. If it doesn't you will need to adjust it. Next step is to align with Polaris. Use one of the many phone apps to find the position of Polaris from your location. Lets say it says that polaris on the clock face is 8.45. Ignoring all info on the reticule other than the rings, locate polaris on the rings at clock position 08.45. Initially, you may need to rotate the RA axis 90’ to see through the polar scope, this hopefully will leave the reticule with 0 at the top making 8.45 obvious. The three rings relate to different years for the position of polaris. The center ring (on mine) is 2020 so initially adjust to that. And that’s it, job done. Set the RA back to its home position and you are good to go……. Allegedly 🤔😜 Enjoy

Very well done indeed 👍 Looks like a folding trolley is on the shopping list to help with moving the stuff.

Ok understand 👍 I have often thought about giving Raspberry Pi a go, maybe this is my excuse. It's certainly a lot more cost effective than blowing the Baader steeldrive up 😜

Many thanks for getting back, hoping you can help. I have the connection details for the steeldrive II and they give you just enough info so that you can hang yourself so... do you know, are the drive motors a straightforward 5VDC and it drives or do you need a 5VDC supply and a 0-5VDC signal to drive? Just to confuse matters even more, If it's a 0-5V positioning voltage, do both motors drive together? I wouldn't mind getting the hand controller but at £300 its a bit steep.

Have a look through this thread, this lens is on my wishlist...

Hello all, just wondering, has anybody made a diy Baader steeldrive II hand controller? Not interested in the PC control aspect at the moment just hand control focus buttons.

I will be looking forward to see how you get on as that telescope is on my future wish list. I have the Hyperion zoom and it works well, given clear skies with my telescope, but I understand that the Baader Hyperion Aspheric also has the adapter thread. The aspheric has a much wider FOV so may work better with your telescope. Have a look at the First Light Optics FOV calculator to see how they compare. Just noticed on the FLO webpage for the Aspheric, they show your telescope with the eyepiece for a comparison. https://www.firstlightoptics.com/baader-planetarium/baader-hyperion-aspheric.html Enjoy

That's an easy one, he needs to be able to identify things in the sky, he probably has a smart phone so a good app like stellarium, a planisphere and a Moon map. I also use an app called sky guide which I find very easy to use 👍

Wow, bargain 👍 According to the info I found, the 200P OTA weighs about 8.8Kgs plus a couple for the camera and another couple for any other bits and bobs plus another couple for a bit of wriggle room and that tells me your starting point for mounts. Even if it collects dust for a while, it's still a bargain 😎

Hello and welcome. Have a quick look in resources at the top of the forum page and select astronomy tools. The link will take you to the First Light Optics webpage. Select the FOV calculator, choose the object you would like to observe, then scroll down the list of telescopes and select your telescope then look through the various eyepieces to see how each would appear. You can then go straight to FLO and look at costs etc. Personally, I have the Baader Hyperion zoom and 2.25x barlow and love it. Enjoy

Q2: How much storage space have you got? A1: Very Little A2: Not a problem 👍

Don't know what you were looking at but I saw them disappear behind my neighbours roof top. 🤔

As far as electrikery goes, why don't you just get two of the 7AH skywatcher/celestron power tanks? https://www.firstlightoptics.com/batteries-powerpacks/skywatcher-powertank-7ah.html Use one for the mount and one for all else. You could always up the second to the 17AH if you felt it necessary.

Hello and welcome wobblewing (great name ) excellent telescope, not just as a starter either, very transportable. Reading your post, I can't give you any tips on the telescope itself other than it's a pick it up, place it outside on a table or similar, point it at what you would like to observe and away you go 👍 If It can be kept safe in a shed in the garden, fantastic as minimal temperature challenges then. Before you get it, rather than buy anything else for the telescope, I would opt for a phone app like stellarium plus a planisphere so you can start to locate things in the night sky. You do realise that you are now doomed like the rest of though don't you? you mention imaging, stacking, DSLR....... doomed 🤣

I have plans for those gaps....cunning plans 😜