Stu

Thanks Steve. So with this setup, no GPCs or barlows, you can’t reach focus at infinity? Will it work with a GPC? Which brand are the binoviewers, Denk? Can you get a T2 adaptor to fit them directly to the Prism?

That’s a shame Steve. Can you post images of the setup so we can try to help? As far as I’m aware it should be perfectly possible to reach focus without barlows or GPCs. I can do it but use a Feathertouch although I believe the Tak focuser is capable of the same. It may be that a T2 diagonal will help, and with certain binoviewers you can attach directly to the diagonal, again saving optical path length.

Funny, my grass always looks browny/purple when I’ve been observing the sun through using a continuum filter for a while, soon turns green again though

Hi Alan, The issue here is not 25585’s desire to mount his scope in which ever way he wishes, it is the fact that we should not mislead any new starters or inexperienced users to think it is necessary. Two decent quality standard rings or a clamshell (from ANY reputable manufacturer) are perfectly adequate. Once the insinuations that they are not up to the job stop then there should not be any further need to counter them. cheers, Stu

ADC is short for Atmospheric Distortion Corrector John, which compensates for atmospheric CA. They can give good results, particularly for imaging low down planets. https://www.firstlightoptics.com/zwo-accessories/zwo-125-atmospheric-dispersion-corrector-adc.html

I wish that were the case for me Geoff. Binoviewers work brilliantly for me for white light and Ha Solar, plus lunar, but planetary for some reason I just don’t get as much detail as with cyclops. The floaters are much better controlled and colour is better but detail not

I’m guessing they just didn’t get killed off over the winter? To me they seem bigger than ever!

Not sure this counts as ‘at night’, but best I could do. OMC140 on Vixen GP mount. Was forced in by the hummingbird sized mosquitoes though!

I don’t think anyone has any issues about the kit used, each to their own. It is the insinuation that standard kit which the majority of us use is inadequate, or that we are somehow irresponsible for using it. If that stops then I think we can all move on. I use two standard CNC rings from Ian King with an ADM vixen dovetail. It is perfectly safe, quite lightweight and allows me to safely rotate or shift the scope if I need to. I would use a similar setup on a DL, or perhaps try the clamshell, either are fine. So, @25585, please can we stop the accusations of inadequacy against perfectly normal kit and get back to fun things, like looking through the blooming things!

This point I wholeheartedly agree with, I would love to see some observing reports from @25585 after using some of this lovely kit. That’s what it is all about after all. My Tak is not in perfect condition, it has been used more than any other scope I have owned and has travelled around to plenty of places with me. I do hope it will travel abroad with me some day soon. It still delivers lovely views and I hope that I am never forced to sell it. Forced would certainly be the word, I would hope it stays with me for life, but the point is it is a scope that gets used, I am very careful with it but the important bit is what I see through it, not what it looks like.

Yes, and it’s a right pain to do anything with if you want to remove it or rotate the scope.

You seem quite happy with how your other heavier scopes are mounted which says a lot I think. Upgrading focusers is done because there is a real benefit to doing so. Tak are a premium brand, the clamshell they provide is totally up to the job.

This defies all logic. The clamshell may be attached to the clamp by two bolts, but if you undo the clamp slightly too much the scope will just drop off the dovetail or the scope will slide down and off the dovetail.

I’m sorry Richard, I can’t let that stand. The standard practise of two rings or a clamshell is perfectly adequate for a lightweight OTA such as the DL. Your setup may make you feel safer, but please accept that it is entirely unnecessary. I know of no one else who does this, and we cannot have this accepted as necessary practise, it is not. I totally accept your right to do whatever you like with your kit, whatever you need to feel safe with it, but as Piero states with far more eloquence than me, please do not represent the standard practises as unsafe, they are not.

Incase it passed you by, that was a reference to the fact that belt and braces is already too much.....

Peace of mind is fine, no problem with that, but I think it is best to set reasonable expectations with those who might be new to this about what is reasonable and what is quite frankly belt, braces and gaffa tape too! If you are an over cautious person that is fine, but two tube rings are perfectly adequate and new starters need to know that. The issue of using the top bracket of the SkyTee2 mount is quite frankly poor advice. The end mount point on the main axis is the best place for your heaviest scope, it is designed to cope with the rates weight and the fact that you are mounting in line with the centre of mass means things are much more easily balanced.

Yesterday’s entry from me, an Ha solar attempt to capture the lovely prom on show, which successfully makes it look quite ordinary

To anyone buying an FC-100 or any variety, please be assured that either the original clamshell or a couple or decent tube rings are perfectly adequate to hold what is a lightweight OTA. I actually find it quite a challenge to loosen the locking screws enough for them to disengage, so it is very safe and easy to loosen them a little should you need to rotate or shift the scope. I have never read of a scope jumping out of tube rings or a clamp, or falling off the end of an alt-az mount. There is no need to use the top clamp of a SkyTee mount, infact the end clamp is far more suitable. So, if you wish to add expense and weight to your scopes with superfluous mounting hardware then by all means do, but please understand it is NOT necessary!

Looks an excellent and very portable solution John. Will interesting to see how such a fast scope performs, very well hopefully

Those cases look very handy Jeremy. The contents look like the start of my one and only case these days, which is a Nag zoom, full set of BGOs, a 24mm Pan and a Baader VIP barlow. All bases covered (except for very widefield) in a very small case. Looks like you’ve got space for that

Great stuff Steve, and I’m another who fell for it! That’s one of the beauties of Taks, they are very flexible and seem easy to make Binoviewer friendly, perhaps because of Taks imaging slant requiring more inwards focus? There is an SGL topic on this very subject too; it started from a Feathertouch perspective which also allows native BV use, but then I think we somehow worked out the green extension trick with some helpful input. It’s a great feature and I’m sure you will love using the scope when your clamshell arrives

It’s wonderful when you get nights (or evenings) like that isn’t it? That is a fantastic smartphone shot, one of the best I’ve seen!

I’m going to lock this thread now, please, as per the rules, start a new thread for each image you want to enter Any on here won’t be considered I’m afraid.

Are you just saying that all entries should be accepted and that behind the scenes a judgement is made about whether they meet the criteria or not? I have no major problem with that. The issues come with repeated questioning of the rules which, given the amount of effort put in by admin to put this competition together, and by mods to judge it, just makes people question if it is worth it. If you are ok with no one questioning rules, entering the competition if you think you meet them and the judges making their decision then I don’t see that’s a problem. Sounds like we both think along the same lines

Hmm, that’s interesting Ade. After I posted it did drop connection a couple of times...... Hope my experience is more like Nick’s!