Jump to content

Stargazers Lounge Uses Cookies

Like most websites, SGL uses cookies in order to deliver a secure, personalised service, to provide social media functions and to analyse our traffic. Continued use of SGL indicates your acceptance of our cookie policy.


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

54 Excellent

About RobST

  • Rank
  1. Got a star adventurer on order
  2. Hey Ash I don't use any filters, i can't wait for orion either, i have seen it about 5.30 in the morning but unfortunately on my way to work hopefully clear skys Wednesday night when i can get out. Hopefully my tracker will come soon Cheers Rob
  3. Hi Ash I dont really know about how the image size things work sorry. If f1.8 is the fastest your lens will go then i would dial it back to f2 or f2.8, some folks say if you use your lens wide open then you won't get the best images. I have tried 200mm f3.5 but that was an old lens of ebay and my old canon 400d so results were bigger but with no detail. I don't have a tracker so everything is on a normal tripod, i take 50 subs using an intervelometer, then 50 more, then re center the object, then do the same process again and so on.
  4. Cheers The image above is 2 seconds subs, 200 i think at iso 6400 on my 6d with samyang 135mm at f2.8. 50 darks, bias and flats whatever that ratio is. I would normally take 300 or 400 light subs. This is a new camera so i shot 1600 and 6400 that night and the 6400 was just an experiment, going to use pixinsight for the 1600 next amd see what i get
  5. Thats how i do my processing, have the video in the background if i get stuck, once you have used the stacking software a few times it's easy, processing is not
  6. Bit more processing today, stacked and processed with Siril mainly then a little tweak with gimp chuffed with this although might make it a bit brighter
  7. Hi Ash Yes i just do 50 darks, bias and flats as one of the tutorials i watched said it was a good number, if i was doing 1 min exposure lights i would probably do less darks and flats as they require the same length exposures, but as i am only doing 2 second exposures its quick to do 50 darks and flats. The thing with the bias frames is you can do them for an iso and use them again and again, although i do tend to redo mine
  8. Yes i find his videos very useful, although i think i probably push my images to far when using the techniques he shows
  9. Fantastic image, yes i would like a touch of blue at the edges of the galaxy i will go and watch Peters video, i have watched some of them before
  10. Hi Ash Thanks for the great comments, Bias frames are taken by setting your camera to the iso you intend to use for your light frames, then set your camera to its fastest speed , in my case 1/4000, and with the lens cap on take about 50 images, those will be your bias frames. Another great youtube channel is Nebula Photos, a guy called nico takes you through every step in great detail
  11. Thanks just waiting on my tracker now, that image i stacked in dss but then used siril to edit, but no work in an image processing program
  12. I managed to get one from amazon, all the instructions were in german, seems its a good one though, and i am enjoying using it, especially now i have my 6d
  13. I would like to tweak the colours a little, but as i said I'm not great at post processing, i usually end up doing to much and ruining the image
  14. My Latest Attempt alot less noise
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.