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About RobST

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  1. Thanks for the replys folks. I'm so used to using a high iso (3200) and fast f 2.8 because I'm usually stacking 2sec subs so even with those settings and a bright moon i have never had a problem with a bright background Lot's of practice to be done with my star adventurer so thanks for the help
  2. Hi Everyone So last night i had my first go with my star adventurer. Canon 6D and Samyang 135mm 30 second subs (I've only done 2 second subs before) I haven't seen the images on my pc yet but from the preview the background sky was very bright. I shot at iso 1600 and f2.8 So if i want to make sure the background isn't so bright should i lower the f stop or iso or both? Thanks Rob
  3. I to have just started with Astrophotography and i have only ever taken images of 2 different objects Setup is Canon 6d non modified, samyang 135mm f2 lens and a static tripod. 2 second subs All put together with Pixinsight
  4. Would they not be to heavy for my star adventurer?
  5. Hi Everyone So i had a bit of good fortune on the pools and have £1000 to spend I currently use a Canon 6d and a samyang 135mm f2 lens. I have a star adventurer 2i that i am still yet to use due to it being cloudy everytime i have a night when it's possible to stay up late So i was thinking about getting a small refractor telescope that i could use with my 6d and star adventurer. Something easy to setup, reliable and preferably with good aftersales just incase anything goes wrong. Interested in DSO Astrophotography Any advice would be much appreciated
  6. Hey Everyone So last night i attempted Orion Nebula for the first time. Probably on the worst night because of the moon It was a last minute decision so it was on a static tripod. Canon 6d, Samyang 135mm stopped down to f2.8, iso 3600, 350 x 2sec subs. This is just a quick processing this morning but I'm quite chuffed especially with the moon being so bright. Needs more work though.
  7. Hey Ash I don't use any filters, i can't wait for orion either, i have seen it about 5.30 in the morning but unfortunately on my way to work hopefully clear skys Wednesday night when i can get out. Hopefully my tracker will come soon Cheers Rob
  8. Hi Ash I dont really know about how the image size things work sorry. If f1.8 is the fastest your lens will go then i would dial it back to f2 or f2.8, some folks say if you use your lens wide open then you won't get the best images. I have tried 200mm f3.5 but that was an old lens of ebay and my old canon 400d so results were bigger but with no detail. I don't have a tracker so everything is on a normal tripod, i take 50 subs using an intervelometer, then 50 more, then re center the object, then do the same process again and so on.
  9. Cheers The image above is 2 seconds subs, 200 i think at iso 6400 on my 6d with samyang 135mm at f2.8. 50 darks, bias and flats whatever that ratio is. I would normally take 300 or 400 light subs. This is a new camera so i shot 1600 and 6400 that night and the 6400 was just an experiment, going to use pixinsight for the 1600 next amd see what i get
  10. Thats how i do my processing, have the video in the background if i get stuck, once you have used the stacking software a few times it's easy, processing is not
  11. Bit more processing today, stacked and processed with Siril mainly then a little tweak with gimp chuffed with this although might make it a bit brighter
  12. Hi Ash Yes i just do 50 darks, bias and flats as one of the tutorials i watched said it was a good number, if i was doing 1 min exposure lights i would probably do less darks and flats as they require the same length exposures, but as i am only doing 2 second exposures its quick to do 50 darks and flats. The thing with the bias frames is you can do them for an iso and use them again and again, although i do tend to redo mine
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