Stuart1971

So what do you add to your printer to give it WiFi...?

It’s actually the Ender 3 V2 I am looking at, which has come out after the pro version, and is supposed to have some improvements over the Pro version...it’s just been released... 👍😀

Also any idea on good software to use. Ideally for an iPad...as I have the iPad Pro and Apple Pencil... 👍😀

Hi, thanks, it is the Pro I was looking at.... 👍😀

For all you 3D printer owners out there, is this any good as my first 3D printer, I would like to give it a try, as I regularly Come across things that I could print... https://www.banggood.com/Creality-3D-Ender-3-V2-Upgraded-DIY-3D-Printer-Kit-220x220x250mm-Printing-Size-Ultra-silent-TMC2208-or-Silent-32-bit-Mainboard-or-Carborundum-Glass-Platform-or-Mean-Well-Power-Supply-or-New-Color-Screen-Support-Resume-After-a-Power-Outage-p-1661657.html?akmClientCountry=GB&utm_design=18&utm_source=emarsys&utm_medium=mail_promo200813_180A&utm_campaign=newsletteremarsys&utm_content=Yoshiki&sc_src=email_4475191&sc_eh=1a2a3837b6c24c841&sc_llid=1138339&sc_lid=187755751&sc_uid=tHR319GsmX&ID=47758&cur_warehouse=CN

It will be perfect, 1m cubed is far to big for any mount and set up that would be used in a garden....totally overkill... 😮

That’s ridiculous, 😮😮 it cost me about £120 plus fours hours of my time.... 😀

Yes, I tried to put the bolts in the corners, but was limited with movement due to only so many ways the pier adapter would fit... I drilled the holes before it was completely cured as much less chance of cracking, in fact when I got near the bottom of the holes when drilling, the dust coming out was still damp, I left covered for two weeks before drilling, but it was back end of last year and was very wet during the two weeks... If you wait until it’s fully cured before drilling, , much more chance of cracking, also keep the block damp by wetting every day, after the first couple of days, and leaving covered, as it will crack also if dries too quick....and you will need a good SDS drill for the holes.... 👍😀

I have a pier with 460mm round base plate, and made my concrete block 650mm cubed, but I used resin anchor bolts that had to be drilled afterwards, they were M16 and the holes were M18, so I had to make sure I was not drilling too close to the edge of the concrete or it could easily crack, I ended up with about 100mm between drilled anchor holes and edge of block, and all went well...So depending on how you are fastening down, it’s something to consider.... 👍😀

No difference.... 👍😀

Superb as I said before, I can’t offer any advice, as I am not experienced enough to give you any, that will improve it....lovely star colour and a great background...also great star shapes right to the corners... 👍👍

Who are you to be the judge of that....?

If everybody you upset does that, the. You will be on your own on here..... I don’t give in like that..... 👍

Absolutely stunning image... 😮👍

You happy now... 😡😡 you seem to get a real kick out of having digs at people, it’s not the first time I have seen this, as I have been on the other end of this from you...

Don’t you move it, ignore the comment above.... 👍😀 And it’s a superb image... 👍

I was guessing by the size of my image, but it don’t look like 40 either... 👍😀 besides does it really matter, the thread is just about the camera, I think it’s going off topic...I was just giving an image sample from the mentioned camera...😀

Well I can assure you the images above were taken with a Philips webcam and through a meade LX90 at f10, no idea about your maths, as that does not interest me, as I have the images to show what can be done with that set up....and it’s looks like it can be done with between 9 and 12 panels...some of the images above were cropped, but not the first two... 👍😀

Ok, well 3.2 may be the issue, try using the 2.9 or 3.0 version, that may help.... 👍

The Philips W7 driver...from the Philips website.. 👍 only works in sharpcap up to V3 I think, but I also use on Stellarmate / INdI with no issues....

You need the scope further forward than shown in first image, to balance in Dec, as ATM its all rear heavy, and to get RA balanced move the weight up the counter weight shaft to effectively lighten it...it may all work then... 👍😀

The counterweight should be nearer to the mount, then it may balance, it’s also better for the mount if you have more weight and have it closer to the mount head.. rather than less weight further away... 👍😀

Yes, about right with nine panel mosaic for full moon, but that would be through an 8” SCT at F10... 👍 never tried through a frac or smaller f ratio scope though...🤔

These were done with the toucam pro II, through an 8” LX90, it’s a 1/4” sensor...not the best I know, but ok.. 👍

Yes, still works... and I have latest 2004 update... 👍