Stuart1971

Here is my flip top version…just 5 foot square, 20mm thick wood and holds a dual side by side rig on an EQ8 mount….cost was £450 all in… https://youtu.be/6wH2FlGyobk

They are, it’s a poor copy of the ioptron CEM70…

The whole idea is not to have any pure black pixels and no pure white pixels, so neither are clipped….

What you are doing is adding a tiny bit of signal to all areas of the image, even the darkest areas with very little light hitting them, so with a value of 1, this will only help the bright areas, you need a value of approx 25 offset, to add signal to the darkest areas of an image…if the whole image is very bright right into the corners, then you could use a lower offset indeed…but that it normally not the case at all…

Well, you don’t need both, you need either the stand alone software and the drivers, or the Unity driver, the Unity shows all the connected Pegasus kit in one window, and the driver works with all there devices, it scares your PC on boot up and shows all the Pegasus devices connected on different tabs, what you showed above is the old style windows app which is a bit outdated now.. Hmmm, not too helpful of them..they are normally pretty good and will suggest things to try…🤔 And congrats to me, this was my 2,000 post…😂😂

Hmmm, not sure then, the Unity drivers and software is worth using though…as it’s the new way they Pegasus are going, with one software and driver for all there devices… maybe worth dropping them a mail, they usually respond pretty quickly…👍🏻

Oh, and one more thing I have small ferrite cores on all my power and USB cables, not sure whether that make any difference but always used them, they come in different diameters, and just clamp on the cables…. these https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ferrite-DOKEI-Anti-Interference-Suppressor-High-frequency/dp/B095HJZFVB/ref=sr_1_4?c=ts&keywords=Ferrite+Cores&qid=1670588154&s=industrial&sr=1-4&ts_id=10256426031

Hi Adam, are you using the latest Unity software for the hub, instead of the older one you show in your image…this may make a difference… I use the UPBv2 and with Kendrick dew bands and have no such issues, I use the Autodew feature…

Has anyone else got this filter wheel, I have read conflicting reviews on the thickness of this wheel, even QHY themselves advertise it at both 17mm and 17.5mm, so which is correct….??🤔🤔

So as I look at the sensor from the front, the information recoded by the bottom left corner, shows in the top left when I open the image in Pixinsight….correct…?

Thanks for that, but yes I know where my sensor top is, but I don’t think I asked the initial question very well… What I wanted to know, is when looking at the sensor from the front of the camera, the photons that hit the bottom left corner of that sensor, where do they show in the subsequent image opened in PI, do they show in the same bottom left corner of the image. the scope has no bearing on the question I asked, it’s purely about what light hit which part of the sensor and how it correlates to the image on screen… Hope that makes sense….it does in my head….👍🏻

Hello, Can you you send me the link to those spacers, am after some ideally in M54 size, but M48 would work…. Thanks

I found the STL file for these if anyone wants it, they are the best I have tried as they are 2mm thick, and don’t lift around the edges when you nip the screws down, like some of the thinner ones do, the screws sit flush with the top, and they fit 2mm thick filters and fit in my QHY 7x36mm filter wheel, which is the new version 3 and 17.5mm thick…

Wow, this thread has really moved on…..😂😂

I have, on my QHY268c camera, but have moved to a filter wheel, with a new 268m mono camera, which is a bit more awkward to get on the laser Jig, so was trying to sort an even simpler way, but needed the info I asked for above, but failing that I will 3D print an adapter to hold the full imaging train with wheel….👍🏻

Yes sorry, I was getting all confused in my head and over thinking it…thanks…👍🏻

Thanks Well it makes no odds about the optics, as this is happening after that, just want to know how the image corners correspond with the sensor corners….after the image is taken, I know that the optics will do things, but that is moot really here….👍🏻

If you have bought that new, then yes I would as that is a very old stock item, where did you get that from….and what colour is the paint, if it is the old green then it’s very old, it should be the newer tak blue colour….it looks like the old green colour in the image, so it’s at least 3-4 years old, so, very old stock, I bought the FSQ85 EDX, 4 years ago, and it’s the new blue colour with the new rotator…

Yes yours is the older version, with what they call the captains wheel…they replaced it, with what was advertised as a better version of an adjuster…..not sure why, and what was wrong with the Captains wheel method….👍🏻

So here is an image of my camera sensor, now when looking at the sensor like this, from the front, would, for instance the bottom left of the sensor, correspond to what I see in one of my images when opened in Pixinsight, so bottom left of the image…. I have an issue with tilt and have been looking at images in PI with the aberration tool, and it clearly shows the bottom left corner of my images have the slight tilt….so trying to work out which corner of the sensor this corresponds too….

Correction to my first post, the shim is actually 0.1mm and had to fold a piece in half to get the 0.2 as shown in second image…👍🏻 this was enough to move the laser dot on my tilt jig back to the centre of the circle it was making, which was approx 5mm diameter…

This is how it looks, and with my mono camera I will have 2 spacers after the filter wheel and will do the same with that too… I left a little tab sticking out, not sure why really…🤔

Hi Adam, yea I have them, and tries but did not get on with them, also they add 0.4mm plus the extra tilt amount…so the backspacing was 0.5, 0.6 or 0.7mm which was too much for me as I needed a tilt adjustment on 0.2mm. They also can move when you tighten up spacers that have these between…. I have since bought some copper shim at 0.2mm and put it in the correct position between two of the spacers on my QHY camera and it works really well indeed…simple to do too…

So according to the above image that is correct….I am going with that too, it seems to make more sense to me to have the strong single reflection side towards the sky…👍🏻

Just found this, and it seems that LRGB and narrowband filters should be fitted the opposite way round to each other….this is from ZWO…they don’t make it easy…. So with LRGB the reflective side goes towards the sensor, and with Narrowband it goes toward the sky…..