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About CloudMagnet

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    Star Forming

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    Middlesbrough, UK
  1. This is the main one i use for realtime pictures: https://meteoradar.co.uk/clouds-sun-UK-Ireland#
  2. Yep definetly seems sound. On point 3 I would also consider at least a modified DSLR or even a dedicated astronomy camera. If you are really going to be chasing nebulas then you need a camera that will be sensitive to Hydrogen alpha to get the best results. Unmodified DSLR cameras tend to be lacking for this but your current camera will do for a start while you build up other equipment. Longer term, a cooled astronomy camera will give the best results so its good to plan for that early on as the cost can get high quickly.
  3. If you have an accessable mains supply, you can use the ZWO branded power supply: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/power-accessories/zwo-12v-5a-ac-to-dc-power-supply-adapter-for-cooled-cameras.html Might take a bit of time to deliver but at least you dont need to worry about connecting the wrong thing. This is what I have used for my camera and no issues at all. Would advise to keep a cover over the power box to stop any dew getting to it.
  4. It really does depend on the object I think. You dont want it to cross the meridian unless you want to do a merdian flip. A way I do Orion is to image M42 for the first half of the night, then when it crosses the merdian, flip the scope and do the Flame nebula- you get both in the same night Otherwise, I plan my targets by normally looking at when they will rise above any obstructions (houses, trees) and then start imaging from there. If you are doing a full night, then the seeing will averge out over the time anyway. If you pick a target starting at maxium height, then the seeing will just get worse as the night goes on for a lot of targets so it makes little difference I think.
  5. I would say for a first imaging session it is fantastic, far better than my first. I would say the focus looks a little soft though but easy fixed next time. You can try adding a little sharpen and that should make a difference. In terms of the drift, dithering works by moving the image a few pixels in random directions rather than a constant drift one way, so I would put this down to polar alignment/mount tracking error. If you were dithering, you would also be guiding which should eliminate any drift so I cant imagine that being the case. With a DSLR, noise will be an issue with long exposures and warm summer nights as well, not much you can do but add exposure time to average it out. 40 mins isnt a long time in astrophotography, images are exposed in the order of hours rather than minutes so I think this is a good result to build on
  6. Really the minimum you need is the dual axis motor drives. This is what I currently use to guide the EQ5 mount. Far from ideal so don't expect perfection and a fair amount of effort to get it working. Can be bought from FLO for £121, a lot cheaper than a GOTO mount but astrophotography does come with costs attached. There isnt a good cheap way to do it i'm afraid. Targets such as the moon and planets can be done through without any tracking but you would only be able to take single frames at a time rather than stacking hundreds together.
  7. Dont think it has been done, the Ha filter will block out any light polution so the second filter would be redundant. It is still handy to keep both types of filter though. Broadband LP filter for galaxies/ star clusters and a narrowband filter for nebula targets.
  8. The dual narrowband filters are popular right now, but I wouldn't recommend it for an unmodified DSLR as they are just not sensitive enough to Ha to make it worthwhile. If you Canon is modifed, this makes more sense. I also used the IDAS D2 in my DSLR and it worked great for reducing light polution. If you go for the 2" or the full frame is really down to what you feel you will get the most use out of. The 2" could be transfered between cameras in the future whereas the full frame will be stuck in the DSLR forever. In the interest of keeping cost down in the short term, it could be worth going for the full frame to do broadband targets with the DSLR and then in the long term, investing in a dedicated camera with the narrowband filter for nebula targets. It just really depends how much you plan to spend in the future. There isnt really one perfect setup that does all types of targets at once.
  9. Still been thinking about this. Here are some ideas: 1. Light reflections as Ian said. Easy way to find out is to point at a different part of the sky. If you still get the patern, we can safely rule this out. 2. Dew/moisture on scope. Possible as it would explain the change throughout the night but not likely as I can't imagine dew forming in those isolated clumps. 3. Filter related. Could be the brand of filters you are using has some internal reflections. Easy way to rule out is try a night without those filters in use. 4. Camera. Could be a cooling issue, might want to try some pictures just at ambient to see if the spots still show. If it is pixel related, it would show in calibration pictures, so I don't think this is to blame. 5. Aliens Overall, it must be something hardware related to show in raw subs, so no processing to blame. Has this showed up in any nights imaging since?
  10. Cygnus constellation is a good choice, some nebula might be visible depending on your camera. Very dense area of stars as well.
  11. Hmm.. are you using a cooled camera? It might be patches on the sensor that are not being kept at the correct temperature throughout the night. Does it show on any calibration pictures?
  12. Yep, completely normal for any camera. When you come to process astro photos, you should also take "dark" frames. These are pictures taken with the lens cap on at the same exposure length and ISO setting as your normal pictures. Stacking software will use these to help subtract hot pixels from your final image.
  13. Subject to getting a HEQ5 size mount and above then yes. I find that pairing it with a APS-C sized sensor will give a good FOV that will give a decent compromise between galaxies that need high focal length and nebula which mostly favors shorter focal length. Just bear in mind that the area of the sky that you can image will be very small, so no widefield shots and you will need good guiding as well for long exposures.
  14. Dont forget buying the filter wheel as well. They can cost a fair bit as well. Yes! Would love to see this. Yep, maybe I exaggerated just setting up and leaving it for the night . I still think that Mono/narrowband is the best but the ease of use on OSC can't be ignored.
  15. Im not sure that is upscaling, just resizing the image to a smaller size but higher PPI. I think you will need dedicated software like what @pc387 suggested to enlarge the image at the same resolution.
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