joe aguiar

im talking about haveing like a power tank or something like that car battery etc

Dew is mainly an issue in summer months when it's hot. Unless u live in the tripocs where theres no winter but has rainy season, then u may have to deal with dew yr round. I norm just take it out let it cool then obseve. Larger scopes need more smaller less time. Unless it's a sealed units. Since yours is small 20 min is probably fine but depends where u live. If u mean condensate when u bring it in then that's bit different. I just cap everything b4 bringing it back in and it drys. I have never had any issues. Joejaguar

Not me on my meade 12 inch x90gps I only use the 8 c battery that go inside and have never run outtakes power For my 8se/6se same only the 10 aa barriers, again never ran out For a manual eq5 or 4 use the 4 d battery Joejaguar

but if it is that model that has the OLD 0.965 inch ep which will not fit 99% of todays eps he will have to get a 0.965 adptor to 1.25" adptor first b4 getting any eps my personal opnion is i wouldnt upgrade the finder or eps on that scope that would be more then the whole scope costs and i would just upgrade the scope to somthing better BUT i know alot people wont like to hear that BUT sometimes the trurth hurts and its better to restart over then fix something that will prove to make most people to get out of the hobby verses stay in it. joejaguar

i have been in hobby since 93 and have never needed or owned a powertank. I think for visual its not really needed but i could see if u r imaging. joejaguar

I wouldn't even mess with the collamation most scopes hold it very well. Theres somtimes a lot talk about it in forms but for most new people that kinda difficult to do. Unless it gets a big bump it should be fine. You can test it if you like in a star. Joejaguar

holy cow $16 shipped sounds so cheap. I guess for this price it could be something that's better than nothing for a brand new person. mine were all about $149 to $169 BEFORE taxes so that's just shy of $200 cdn joejaguar

I didn't think he would go that much for eps that scope I think even getting plossls or super plossl is good enough. Meade makes the HD60 ep which is about $99 to $119 cdn so that's probally $60UK to 65UK under your budjet and still saving money. A celestron omni plossl are about $30 to $35 UK a better ep than both of these if you want to go up to your $100UK price is at badder hyperion eps BUT in a way im thinking that may be too good for the scope UNLESS you plan for the future keep those eps when u upgrade the scope later. joejaguar

first I used the 20 maps that came with the book nightwatch then I got the map called deepsky 600 later 1 got the 2 books package (I forgot the name but its white books) altho later they made a book for the sourthern sky. Its 2 authors I agree u need a rigel or telrad and some people like a 8 to 10x50 finderscope. I just use a 56mm meade super plossl ep and something that gets me a low power like 12x to 20x depending on the scope I use which can be almost a finderscope. joejaguar

with goto in general if its not that will put more stress in either motor and prob make it die bit faster then normal. also goto are double the price of the same size manual mount In a manual mount you don't have to worry as much since there no stress on the goto motors but u don't want to be too far off either as not to over stress the arms either. in imaging being off even abit can lead to the motor over gearing so your star may not be pinpoint. I think we just answered kinda this on another tread last week where he had star trails and it could have been he setup wasn't balanced. joejaguar

I would say keep the 2" diagonal I havethem in pretty much every scope I own when my skywatcher 80mm apo. Sure using a 1.25" ep is low power BUT a 2" low power is even lower. If you ever are at DARK country skies having a really low power and scanning the milky way is amazing. BUT also your 8"sct is 2000 mm focal length that that's kinda long. There will be a lot items you wont be able to see or at the very least see half. so even a 1.25" 32mm ep plossl is 63x power/ 2000 divide by 32mm. that's not high power BUT also not low. you could benefit from a 2 ich 40mm ep or 2 inch 45mm ep MAX would be a 50 this will also give a larger true field of view compared to an 1.25"and make trying to find stuff easier AND you can still use all your 1.25" ep with it too I prob would return the focal redicser tho have the 2" diagonal and low power 2inch ep will do the same and u don't need both items. joejaguar

maybe try to move the ota up or down inside the rings & move the vixen bar up or down the mount if theres not enough room you may need a 12" or 13" vixen bar instead of the smaller 8" bar joejaguar

the one u mentioned ccd is for imagers so don't get that one. There are many companies that make nebula filters in fact probably all companies do I have thousdand oaks on a few orion but I don't think it matters too much there are what I would call 4 levels of nebula filters or sometimes called light pollusion filters 1-level blocks the least light but also has the least gain would be a broadband filter, this model can be used for any scope BUT if you have smaller scope may be best bet, as if you block too much light the image may be too dim to look at. example scopes 4.5" reflectors or 80 or 90mm refractors. 2- level blocks more light but has twice the gain would be a narrowband filter, since this one blocks twice the light I would say scopes over 6"reflectors or 4 to 5" refractors or 6"sct 3-level blocks even more light this one would be an 03 filter but has again more gain but you should have scopes larger then 8' reflector or sct or maybe 6" refractors 4- level would be the most star light its called h-beta filter BUT this model is manilly used for like less then a dozen item and is very specific filter you may ot may not want to buy a filter that has like less then 10 items that its dedicated for. My list doesn't mean you cant use a narrowband with a smaller scope BUT its just a guide line. If you are in dark skiys like the blue grey zone you probbally can use a more narrow band since the sky is so dark that what it dims doesn't make a big deal. for most people if you could only buy 1 kind then it probally be the narrowband model joejaguar

I agree to doht use Polaris use another star Joejaguar

Yep for a camera almost every scope here comes with that ring. Its 1/20 thread Joejaguar

tico remember the pst is at 1.0A and the sweet spot in the ep is like half the fov in the ep, that's y as my 1st reply says I went directly to the solarmax 40mm. yes it costs more but its a better solar scope if you can afford it. The same goes for the lunt35 its a starter scope. The coronados are at .70A lunts .75 iam talking about single stacked BUT the pst is kinda cheap so its an entry level HA scope, kinda like getting a 6o or 70mm acro its a start into the hobby. In my videos I say the 80mm should be a min if someone getting into the hobby IF you can afford it, well if you cant then sure get that 60 or 70mm get some views in , see some stuff and later upgrade. Joejaguar

the main difference between a eq3-2 and the cg4 is the tripod, the colour being the other thing but that's doesn't matter. I have one of each the eq3 is better for light weight setups and if you live in an apt/HiRISE or condo where you must take it outside to obseve where the cg4 can be for more stable setups but abit heaver setups. joejaguar

ok last thing is several years ago when the lunt first came out i tested my coronado solarmax 60 (this is the one right after the 40mm version i said on my first post ) (BUT i have to make a disclaimer tho here that coronado was the oringinal made in arizona model with the dot on the center of the filter) against the lunt 60 so same size. The lunt was at .75A mine was .70A BUt i also dont know what BF model he had the 600 or 1200, but shouldnt matter its just the size of the filter it doesnt make it better just easier to look through. Anyway the lunt was also back then the tilt version not the newer pressure tunner verion BUT the coronado was cleaner crisper and brighter i would say by 20% on THE SAME flares in case someone was gonna ask. Iam not saying coronado is beter than lunt and both companies have different models different focusers etc BUT at that time i saw a diffrence and i cant say maybe the oringinal arizona models are better then now meades coronados. i do have the coronado11 and like i said will be getting 99% sure sure while this sale is on the 90mm 111 version. The new version has rings and bar where i think is better then the clamp aslo the clamp u had to buy an add on vixen bar to fit on most scope. I also can recommend after using the oringinal and the type 11 and now the type 111 than i like the tilt tuner of the oringinal and type 111 models over the solarmax11 INTERNAL tilt tuner. its just easier to tilt BUT the internal tilt has a lot more tilt to it tho. Not the mention the coronado finally put a decent focuser on the newest type 111 model so i would just get that one hope that helps joejaguar

i forgot to put the one iam going to get was the 90mm solarmax111 i didnt put the 90mm is last post i just edited well meade has the 70mm solarmax111 with bf10 or bf15 at almost $800 to $900 off right now so for the same money as the LS50 or 60 you can get the solarmax111 70 scope then up to this level is big difference joejaguar

isnt that venus? first i was gonna say the moon but cant be moon if it was an ecipse right now and last few months venus has been close to the sun after sunset and venus goes through phases like the moon does. Not sure you knew that. joejaguar

what fov ep are you thinking of the 60 degree? 70 80 90 or 100? of course price keeps going up with each level and whats the price you looking at per ep? joejaguar

i agree and would even say break the sun filter and throw it away if u bag it and even if you know not too use it what if your kids use it one day when you are not around. Maybe u may sell that scope in future and they wont know not to use it what if u pass it on to someone else it not worth the risk someone else not knowing it and using it joejaguar

posting a pic would help but yes should have 2 adptors1.25' and 2 inch joejaguar

Also dont even bother bf600 spend bit more and get the 1200 Bf5 or bf6 is like looking through a pin hole. F10 or bf1200 is min u should get My first scope was the Coronado 40mm solar max with bf5 Then solarnax 60 with f10 then the solarmax 11 double stacked with f10. I'm 99% sure I'm buying the solar max 111 90mm with bf15 I also say get the 60 over 50 as well Funny thing I just made a video for my solarnax11 60mm last night . I'll post the link https://youtu.be/K3d9WFMUPzY Joejaguar

Not sure that always good idea. I ordered a meade lxd75 mount one issue I had was the polar scope cap that's on the front cap was stuck. I tried to pull it off finally I had to use a large wrench it finally came off, but not before it preyed off some paint and I bent couple of the cap triangle teeth. So after looking at it I see the person who put it on the hole didnt let the white fully dry and that's y the cap sealed to the mount. If I were to send it back to the dealer it probably cost least $60 and $60 back just for a cap? And a bit paint that got pulled off? It's not worth the cost and time. The warranty doesnt cover issues like this. I could understand if the goto didnt work ot the eq gears etc. But I guess up to u tho if u think it should be sent back for return or refund Joejaguar