AstroMuni

Apple and a few others seem to have made changes to their design to deal with this, but my phone is obviously not able to cope with it 😞

This would work upto a point. i.e. you cant increase the distance beyond a certain point to get more magnifcation. 🙂

That would be the underlying formula, but as a rough guide I guess the multiplication of mag factors for each barlow would suffice.

The magnification would be 3 x 2 x mag of using the 20mm. So if the original 20mm was giving a magnification of (say) 50x then with these 2 barlows added you would get 50 x 6 = 300x

Like I mentioned earlier this combination will get you a magnification between the 25mm and the 10mm. So if you already have a barlow, just go for it! In this hobby, you will hear different people giving you difffering views of what they can or cannot see. But as we are all built different, just give it a shot and enjoy the view is my motto. If you have the budget, go out and buy the best EPs you can get for the money. There is plenty of discussion available on this forum to assist you 🙂

I have tried this using skyEye on android and the biggest challenge I had was when it would tell me of a Strange magnetic field and not point in the right direction. This is obviously due to the metal in the mount, but that makes it harder to use. But yes, it is usable.

Welcome to SGL, ashish83. You should be able to see the rings of Saturn and bands on Jupiter + moons with that scope. It should be visible with both those EPs w/o Barlow. Watching through a glass window could give you blurry views and double images. So if you can open the window and see that might help. I am guessing that the EPs are the stock EPs that came with the scope. Using a 2x Barlow with 25mm would effectively get you a FL of 12.5mm. Using it with 10mm Plossl would make it harder for you to keep track of the planets as they move about. But you can always try 🙂 Where are you based?

Take a look at this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I1PGjeBCVSc HTH 🙂

Welcome to the forum. Brown dwarf is not his name 🙂 You will notice that his name is above that ! Good luck with your search for a scope.

If you are using the Astromaster 130 then 32mm would give you an exit pupil of 32/5 = 6.5mm. So depending on your age this may or may not suit the entrance pupil of your eye. Ideally the exit pupil should not be more than your entrance pupil to optimise the amount of light gathered. As we age our ability to dilate the pupil diminishes 😞

I have the hand controller so havent used the wifi connect option. I do have the app on my phone...The alignment procedure should be pretty much the same. The android app has an Alignment button which should get enabled once you have connected to the mount. and then its something along these lines (taken from online help). HTH 🙂 I am guessing that the options will be same as on the handcontroller i.e. 1-star, 2-star or 3-star alignment.

That would suggest that wifi connection is OK.

Could it be a satellite or just contrails? Guessing that you took a long exposure shot.

Have you tried using the Synscan Pro app to connect to the mount? If that also does NOT work then we can look at other options.

Amazing pics. Could you post the details of how you got the pictures as well pls.

Phone holders definitely help 👍 Like this one https://www.amazon.co.uk/Solomark-Universal-Phone-Adapter-Mount/dp/B0188KP6T8/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1P0S36VCB88C4&dchild=1&keywords=telescope+camera+adapter&qid=1595331443&sprefix=telescope+came%2Caps%2C204&sr=8-3 or https://www.celestron.com/products/nexyz-3-axis-universal-smartphone-adapter

This is at around 10pm in SE direction to view Jupiter & Saturn

That would be Venus

Mars & Venus are not too far apart at the moment and rise after midnight / early morning, and Saturn and Jupiter are close to each other but rise earlier in the night.

Beautiful pics. What phone and camera app are you using and what were the settings on the camera app?

Short answer is yes, but as we are talking astronomical distances here, it wont vary much, probably a fraction of a turn on the focusser. But if you change the eyepiece then it would need refocussing ofcourse. Hence people like to buy parfocal eyepieces to make life easier.

A lot of the cheaper scopes have a lot of play in the focusser, hence the effect you are seeing. As most of your observation would be done when the focusser is around half way out (check where it actually gets into focus), I would suggest you check if the collimation looks right at that point.

One interesting fact about our pupils is they dilate when we see something that interests us too!

Hi Ishan, From your video it looks as if having an unbalanced axis is pushing the bearing to one side and causing the slower movement. Whereas when you have nothing attached it moves freely.

Thats useful information @ecuador I couldnt spot the MEII in these??