AstroMuni

Thats a great picture. Love it. What do you do in each of these softwares? I am new to this and I am just learning SIRIL. In fact I posted my first pictures just yesterday in the forum

Here is my second image. This is M82 , Cigar galaxy taken with a similar sort of sequence 100 x 5sec. Its amazing to know that its being massively influenced by M81 causing all the starburst activity at the centre. Any suggestions on how to improve the image are appreciated.

+1 for Skeye 🙂

Hi all, I am brand new to imaging and this is my very first set of images using the ASI224mc attached to a Celestron 130EQ scope and mounted on a HEQ5pro to give it stability and GOTO ability. This scope (OTA) has mixed reviews as it has a spherical mirror and I had little hopes for it. But considering what I have managed to get with just around 8mins of data, its looking promising. 🙂 This image is of M81 Bode's galaxy using around 100 exposures of 5sec each. These have been stacked and post processed in SIRIL. No darks or flats have been taken. Still new to this aspect of it ....The images were captured using Ekos. Any tips on how to improve the image are welcome !

Hi, I have setup Astroberry on my RPi and set it to connect via ethernet cable to my laptop running linux. So the RPi gets assigned a 169.254.x.x address. If I enable the Wifi on the RPi and connect it to my home Wifi I am able to connect to the INDI webmanager from Kstars/Ekos profile. But if I disable the Wifi on the RPi so its only connected via ethernet cable to my laptop, I cant get Ekos to find the INDI webmanager. So my guess is that the webmanager is NOT listening to requests from the 169.254.x.x address?? How can I get this fixed?

It was through friends on my local astronomy group, so no link

What tool do you use to drive the mount? I use Ekos + EQMOD + NO guide scope and I have the same star elongation problem. Workaround for me at the moment is taking lots of short bursts (limited by star elongation), followed by a realign to bring image back in centre.

Lovely image. How many images and what is the duration of each exposure?

I am new to imaging and SIRIL and I have heard that its better to stack the stacks. i.e First night's images stacked as s1 and then 2nd nights as s2. Now put these into a separate folder and stack them together s1+s2. Why the different approaches and does one offer better advantages over the other?

Is jasem on this forum? He responds pretty rapidly on Indi forum and Stellarmate ofcourse 🙂

Hi, I use Ekos for driving my mount and camera on a Linux laptop. I have noticed that when I schedule sequences it creates a folder structure like : - Object name - Lights - Luminence Is there a way to control this structure? Any help appreciated. I am being flooded by sub directories within sub directories with repeated runs of same object 😞

Hi, I use Ekos directly from laptop and the process I follow is similar to what you do but with a few differences: In point 6 - I use the Polar alignment module to help get alignment and then I follow up by clicking on mount model and getting a few stars on either side of the meridien. I then go to select an object and do a capture and solve. Then I start taking images with longer and longer durations to check if I have star images which are getting elongated.

Neither need to be in full focus as long as you can see approximately where Polaris is on the clock. But I prefer to have the reticle a bit clearer. I set the illumination on reticle quite low, just enough to see reticle + star

So thats the magic figure to watch out for!

Are there issues with customs and additional (hidden) charges due to customs duty etc.? If there are customs issues who deals with them - aliexpress or the buyer

That is expected. Polaris does move around the clock face through the day. As long as its still moving around at the same distance (radius) from centre of reticle then you are good, as the centre is hopefully centred on True North.

And before I forget, use as high a magnification as you can on the scope to align from indoors - start with low mag and go to highest. With the higher magnification your FOV will reduce so becomes harder to find the object

If you are getting double images due to glass then you would need to open window, otherwise not necessary. We are not attempting a micro alignment here

Here is a suggestion that might work. Remove just the OTA and take it upstairs, place on a firm surface and point through your window at some small object thats far away. TV antennae work best

Here is a link that gives you info on relationship between Telescope & Camera https://astronomy.tools/calculators/ccd_suitability and this link should help you with the calculations https://astronomy.tools/calculators/ccd

Resolution is dependant on the scope in use. But getting more detail can be achieved by taking more images and stacking. Focus also plays a big role.

Good spot :-) And here we are continuing to respond.........

Is that indeed a Jones bird design? I think it may not have a collimatable mirror (unsure) but not sure about the JB bit. 🤔

If in doubt and want a quick start buy a decent pair of binos (around 50 x 10) and get started. Even the cheap ones sold at Lidl work a treat 🙂

The HEQ5 is a very decent mount for beginners in AP. It has a load capacity of 11kg for AP and a bit higher for visual, so the 200pds weighing almost 9kg doesnt give you much room to add on accessories. To add to comment by @vlaiv about using 130pds, take a look at this long post on what its capable of.