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Uranium235

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Everything posted by Uranium235

  1. After a bit of tweaking the tension (so its quite stiff), mine was ok with the 383L+ and FW, which is the best part of 2kg. There are no clear instructions from SW on which hex bolts to tighten up on the focuser, but you might find this useful: https://teleskop-austria.at/information/pdf/SWN1507eq3_Skywatcher_Crayfor-Auszug_justieren.pdf You might need some counterweight at the primary end too, a lot of the time peoples setups are quite camera heavy. I used a strap-on leg weight for mine.
  2. Youre right about the primary and focuser needing a little attention (moreso the focuser), but everything else is already in a passable state - except the inside would need flocking (including the drawtube), the paint they use isnt quite black enough for my taste. The steel tube is preferable to aluminium, and its dinky size is its strength (small tubes flex less) - and the dovetail will suffice (lets face it, its not a heavy telescope!). Your starfield looks ok, so no need to go adjusting any tilt yet. Quite a few have done something to modify theirs, usually in improving the camera mounting method - ie: drilling a third hole in the EP holder so you have three thumbscrews 120deg apart (helps prevent tilt in the imaging train). Oh, get a dovetail bar for the top as well. That will be your guider platform, and it has the added bonus of increasing overall rigidity (also, a pretty useful handle). For info, the holes on top of the tube rings are 1/4" UNC, or if you cant get that a 1/4" Whitworth will do the job.
  3. Nothing in particular, just the usual stuff you look at when buying a newt (state of the mirrors) - but dirty mirrors can be cleaned. Check the spider as well, to make sure no vanes are bent.
  4. Sensorgen DR graph for the 1000d: Graphs for all canon cameras here: http://dslr-astrophotography.com/iso-values-canon-cameras/ Im inclined not to go against the article that Christian wrote, so far its been very accurate and helped retain star colour that otherwise would have been burnt out very quickly at f2: The read noise is an aside, and is dealt with by proper calibration. What works in real world use and retaining as much dynamic range as possible is what counts I think. Take a moment to read the article, then you can decide for yourself: http://dslr-astrophotography.com/iso-dslr-astrophotography/ Whether you agree or disagree with it is entirely up to you, as there will always be differences in opinion when it comes to what works best But, I think we are digressing too much as this thread is about non-eq imaging.
  5. You might want to read this very interesting article from Christian Van den Berge : http://dslr-astrophotography.com/iso-dslr-astrophotography/ I found it rather illuminating (pardon the pun) when it came to choosing the best ISO for a fast lens on a DSLR. Its about finding what point your camera becomes "ISOless", which turned out to be ISO200 for my Canon 1000d... yes, very low but it helped an awful lot when it came to preserving star colour. As long as the data is properly calibrated, read noise should not be much of an issue - unless you are chasing a very weak signal, in which case bump up the ISO a bit (maybe to 400) to reduce the effect read noise has on very weak signals, extend the exposure, then merge the ISO 200&400 sets as an HDR image (so you have colour in every part of the image, including stars).
  6. You mean this one? (give it a few moments to load, its very big!) But, it wasnt with the 130pds, it was from the Star 71. If I'd chosen the 130 to do it, I'd still be on it now! Its the full size image, so to read it just click on the image - then hit the full size button. First it has to be solved, then annotated by AstroimageJ (it will perform both tasks for you) - but its not automatic, you have to search the image for something fuzzy then click to send the co-ordinates to the SIMBAD/LEDA database for a match.... which took a long time on an image this size.
  7. Yayy... dark site tonite! Better wrap up warm!

    1. Alien 13

      Alien 13

      Is this another outing for the mighty Samyang...

    2. Uranium235

      Uranium235

      Yep, with the DSLR this time - trying to in-fill some colour on the Iris CCD data.

  8. Guiding tonite.... must be mad with Satans lightbulb in force!

    1. Phil Fargaze

      Phil Fargaze

      Made me laugh. I`ve never heard it called that before! 

  9. Heres my entry for StuPOD... a godawful Sun through Helens Ha telescope
  10. Dark site tonite!

    1. Uranium235

      Uranium235

      what a flippin' disaster that was! loads and loads of rain!

  11. First night out at the new dark site... wow... that's all I can say! Flamin cold though!

    1. Ibbo!

      Ibbo!

      youneed one of those fishing coveralls

       

    2. Uranium235

      Uranium235

      Only just got back mate... the trip home has really knocked the the stuffing out of me. I left the site about 10:40, didnt get back until gone midnight. The main route back was closed for roadworks with utterly useless diversions set up that went nowhere. Had to pull over and resort to the sat nav to get me home via an alternative route.... good practice for night driving anyway.

    3. Ibbo!

      Ibbo!

      opps as you say good practice

      hope the data is good

       

  12. Cor blimey guv... Guiding tonite!

  13. I wasnt sure which CC you had because the SWCC comes with a 2" EP adaptor (it has an M48 thread at the base for connecting to the corrector). So, disregarding the corrector issue - just use an extension tube. Or if you have a 2" barlow, remove the element (it normally just screws off) and use that as your extension.
  14. For an ep you need to be adding length to the focuser with an extension tube, not removing it. Also try it without the CC first, that will simplify the optical train.
  15. Yes, exactly that! I also experienced the same issue on M45, I managed to clone brush it out but I'd rather it not be there in the first place
  16. Yep, get the MPCC MkIII. The SW correctors suffer from internal reflections on bright stars.
  17. Looks good James The only thing I can pick out really is a small loss of local contrast on Melotte 15, its nothing that a small layer mask cant sort out.
  18. Really bored of clouds now!

    1. Ibbo!

      Ibbo!

      you me and the rest of the forum.

  19. Nice to see the 130pds threadzilla still rumbing on after all this time. Keep those images coming! Congrats to all for your efforts!
  20. Always nice to see a bit of proper science. If youre interested another quasar is up for grabs now, just as distant (~8bly). If you havent already imaged it, its the twin quasar: The edge on spiral is NGC3079, really useful as a pointer to your target. Its also a great example of gravitational lensing.
  21. All taken with the Atik 383L+ Gamma Cygni and Beyond: 16 panel mosaic, 56 hours (Star 71) Pelican Ultra: 200pds Dusty M45: Star 71 Belt to Sword - Mono version: Star 71 Virgo Supercluster annotated: 9 panel mosaic, Star 71 (click for fullsize, so you can read it)
  22. Please use this thread to showcase your best images captured during 2016. Just one post per member but you can include up to 5 images if you want. The thread is for all imagers novices and advanced. Please keep details to a minimum - scope and camera possibly along with a few comments. The thread needs to be packed with images so please don't respond to the postings
  23. Guiding tonite!

    1. iapa

      iapa

      :)

      I got my longest guiding session last night

      and had my DEC corrections going the wrong way :(

      RA wasn't too bad.

       fortunately, just the target drifted 'down' so when stacked I have very cropped result

      LOL

       

  24. Ok.... this fog is getting really boring now!

    1. nightfisher

      nightfisher

      welcome to my world, so often get fog and mist up here

  25. I nominate myself muppet of the week... left the DSLR on AV... doh!

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