Geoff Lister

I used the varnish from a little tube with a brush in the lid; it was part of a 3-tube set, as the clear top coat in a car paintwork scratch repair kit (primer-body colour-protective coat). The rubber feet are fairly stiff, but not rigid, so it will be interesting to see if the "fix" is still working in another 2-years time ⏳.

This site may be of help. https://www.lightpollutionmap.info/#zoom=10&lat=6714579&lon=-279386&layers=B0TFFFFFFFFFFFFF Geoff

I have had my ST120/AZ3 combination for about 2 years. Both have resided in a well-protected, but unheated, extension to my garage. My tripods are supported by hooks and brackets just above head height. This afternoon, I took down the AZ3, and found my fingers covered in black dust. This came from the tapered surfaces and bases of the 3 black rubber feet, at the bottom of the AZ3's legs. I removed the remaining dust with a cloth, and painted the rubber with varnish, and I hope that this will stop the shedding in future. The dust seemed to be of a graphite/charcoal consistency, and required a lot of soap and water to clean my hands. I have checked my other tripods and Dobsonian mounts' feet, and most of them have rigid plastic surfaces. However, the Celestron Cosmos WiFi mount's tripod has rigid rubberised feet, similar to those on the AZ3, has been stored in the same environment for about 6 months longer, but does not seem to suffer from the dust-shedding problem. My AZ3 "feature" does not seem obvious in normal use, when I extend or retract the legs; it was only when I touched the feet and got black fingers. Has anyone else had this problem with Skywatcher/Celestron tripod feet? Geoff

I have several 10mm & 25mm EPs that came with my various Celestron/Skywatcher setups, and a pair of 25s and a x2 Barlow work well with most OTAs. The Maks have an extended focal range, and so the Barlow is optional. The helical focus adjustments on each EP act as effective verniers in conjunction with the OTA's main focus knob. I have also used a pair of cheap 7-21mm zooms. With care, these can be set to the same value, and the brain seems to be more forgiving of their imperfections, when both eyes are active. At my advanced age, I have "floaters" in my eyes, and a binocular view seems to filter out their effects on non-pinpoint targets. Geoff

In addition to giving "depth" to planets, nebulae and the Moon; at my advancing years, I have floaters in my eyes, and I find that these are much less obvious when the image is in both eyes. Geoff

The OTA has the standard dovetail plate, running the full length of the main tube. The OTA fits comfortably on my Skymax mount, for full Goto, for a wider FOV than the 127mm Mak. The focus assembly on the Heritage 130 is at the top, when mounted on the original Dob. mount, or equivalent where the dovetail clamp is to the right of the OTA. If mounted on an EQ mount, or photographic tripod, the eyepiece position moves to the right-hand side and places more strain on the focuser's thread. There would be a significant risk of a camera falling to the ground. Geoff

This gives an idea of the current consumption. When tracking, the Virtuoso mount takes little extra power if viewing close to Polaris, and increases towards the celestial equator. The high consumption is when slewing at maximum rate. Geoff

If you want a system that is air-transportable between Geneva, Scotland and London, then it is worth considering the Skymax Synscan 127 GoTo system. The Mak. design is very robust. I have one in the UK, and a second one that I have transported across France. Neither of them have required any collimation adjustment. The whole setup weighs about 11kg. Geoff

I have used my Virtuoso mount with my 127mm Mak., and the 130mm Newtonian from my Heritage 130p. Both seem OK as long as you limit the max slew rate to 4 (not 5), and avoid targets at high altitudes. Geoff

I have 2 Skymax 127 systems; one in the UK, and one in France. Both came with the 6x30 straight-through finder, but I replaced the UK one with the RACI equivalent, as shown in John's photo. The RACI one is much easier to use for high-altitude alignment stars. Last night, I was using my French system, and Vega (at about 70 degrees altitude) as the first alignment star, and I had to get on hands and knees to use the straight-through finder. French concrete is uncomfortable on the knees 😣. Saturn is a better target when viewed from Bristol's twin city, Bordeaux, particularly after a glass, or two, of the local wine. The "redundant" straight-through finder is now on my Astromaster 130 OTA, as the Astromaster's original RDF is useless. Geoff

Hi Gordon, and welcome to the SGL. I have this system, and it is a very good table-top Dobsonian mount. It does have a 3/8" - 16 UNC internal thread in the central section of the base, but would need a thread adaptor if you use a normal photographic tripod. However, it is much more stable if used on a small table. I use mine on a 60cm diameter glass-top patio table. It is much more stable than my tripod-mounted systems. To get the widest views, I use a 32mm Plossl eyepiece. The MCT optical tube also works well with my Celestron 8-24 mm zoom. This gives me adjustable magnification; and thus select the optimum magnification / image clarity compromise for the best view, particularly for the planets.

As Geoff Barnes mentioned above, Goto gives you tracking; almost essential at high magnifications. I have struggled to find Uranus and Neptune with manual mounts, but had no problems with my Synscan mounts. With tracking, you can try different eyepieces, and the target stays centred; with a manual mount, the target drifts off. I often use my 127mm Mak. OTA on my Virtuoso mount. I point the finder roughly at Polaris, power-up, and then use the direction buttons or manual movements & re-tighten clutches, and I have decent tracking without the need for full Goto alignment. If I want a wider view, I use the OTA from my Heritage 130. Geoff

I stick them in the oven after the Sunday roast/Apple crumble has been removed. I read somewhere that if you use a microwave, when most of the water has been driven off, there is no "load" for the microwave energy and it puts more strain on the magnetron. Geoff

My 250PX mount does not have adjustable feet. I mounted a decent bubble level on the base. To level it, I turn the bottom of the base so that the bubble is towards the direction between 2 of the feet, and insert a metal wedge under the third foot to centre the bubble. I used a metal wedge, because it was handy, but a wooden one would work fine. Once level, I rotate the upper part of the base to point north, extend and fit the tube, and power up. Yes, this is a problem, but the first star alignment will sort out any compass error. The important bit is the level mount. Geoff

Hello Peter, thank you for the feedback. I found it difficult to get a sharp focus, with the poor LCD contrast and the atmospheric distortion adding ripples to the edge of the disk - Jupiter is so much easier, particularly with its convenient Galilean moons. I have added your suggested sites to my browser "favourites". There was a small hole in the clouds, so I tried the SS60 on my Virtuoso mount. The SS60 fits neatly in place of the 90mm Mak. With the mount on the patio table, the EP was at a convenient height for seated viewing. With the Virtuoso mount and alternative SS60/90 Mak., this makes a very handy grab-and-go battery/mains combination (the Virtuoso mount only takes about 40 to 80mA when tracking). Needless to say, as soon as I had the combination tracking the sun, the big black clouds arrived, and I had just enough time to take this photo before the deluge. Geoff

I have used solar film fitted in the lens covers of my 90 and 120mm refractors, but realised that if I wanted more detail in the view, I had to get a dedicated Ha instrument. Last week, I received a parcel from FLO, (very speedy service, and with the usual "May Contain Clouds" sticker), containing a Daystar Solar Scout 60. The sticker was correct, but last Sunday (6th) the sky was largely cloud-free. The package contained a plug-top 5V 1.5A USB A, PSU, but with input pins designed for USA mains sockets. I found an adaptor in my "bits box", but I also tried the 5V 2A supply that came with my Android tablet, and a USB battery pack with 2.1A output; both seemed to work. The battery pack fitted in the little satchel that came with my Skymax Mak., and hung from the mount's eyepiece-holder tray. I have a plug-in mains power meter, and I found that, whilst the unit was warming up, the input power to the supply peaked close to 8W, so the 1.5A supply may be close to current-limit at times. I also used a strap to support the power lead at the 'scope end - the lead has thick cable, and wanted to avoid the "tail wags dog" effect. I borrowed the diagonal from my ST120 and started with a Celestron "Omni" 32mm Plossl EP. The adjustment knob has click positions, with "hourly" intervals from 1 o'clock to 11 o'clock, so I started at 6 o'clock. The view was clear and bright, but no obvious detail, except a minor ripple running round the disk (of similar amplitude and frequency to that round the Moon when I used another OTA as the Sun was setting below roof height). I tried each of the adjustment settings, but could not see any obvious detail on the disk (there was much more activity from my eye's floaters). I also tried my 8-24mm zooms (Celestron and Baader Hyperion Mk4); both gave reasonable performance, but no obvious improvement in detail. During the last half-hour of sunlight, I replaced the EP with my (colour) GPCAM + 0.5 focal reducer, and took a few stills. I normally use the camera and laptop combination at night, and found that it was difficult to get a clear view of the image on the LCD - the strong sunlight washed out most of the contrast. This is a section of what was probably the best. I found that by tilting the laptop's display slightly I could see a little more detail in the disc, but nothing spectacular. I need to spend more time imaging, to find the optimum SS60 tuning position and camera settings. A day without clouds and frequent showers would be useful. I will probably get a case, similar to the one featured earlier in this post. Question:- I noticed that, as the unit was going through its 10-minute warm-up, the LED flickered between amber and green many times before remaining green, and then, when established, showed flickers of lower brightness green. Is this normal? Geoff

I have used solar film fitted in the lens covers of my 90 and 120mm refractors, but realised that if I wanted more detail in the view, I had to get a dedicated Ha instrument. Last week, I received a parcel from FLO, (very speedy service, and with the usual "May Contain Clouds" sticker), containing a Daystar Solar Scout 60. The sticker was correct, but last Sunday (6th) the sky was largely cloud-free. The package contained a plug-top 5V 1.5A USB A, PSU, but with input pins designed for USA mains sockets. I found an adaptor in my "bits box", but I also tried the 5V 2A supply that came with my Android tablet, and a USB battery pack with 2.1A output; both seemed to work. I have a plug-in mains power meter, and I found that, whilst the unit was warming up, the input power to the supply peaked close to 8W, so the 1.5A supply may be close to current-limit at times. I borrowed the diagonal from my ST120 and started with a Celestron "Omni" 32mm Plossl EP. The adjustment knob has click positions, with "hourly" intervals from 1 o'clock to 11 o'clock, so I started at 6 o'clock. The view was clear and bright, but no obvious detail, except a minor ripple running round the disk (of similar amplitude and frequency to that round the Moon when I used another OTA as the Sun was setting below roof height). I tried each of the adjustment settings, but could not see any obvious detail on the disk (there was much more activity from my eye's floaters). During the last half-hour of sunlight, I replaced the EP with my (colour) GPCAM + 0.5 focal reducer, and took a few stills. I normally use the camera and laptop combination at night, and found that it was difficult to get a clear view of the image on the LCD - the strong sunlight washed out most of the contrast. This is a section of what was probably the best. I found that by tilting the laptop's display slightly I could see a little more detail in the disc, but nothing spectacular. I need to spend more time imaging, to find the optimum SS60 tuning position and camera settings. A day without clouds and frequent showers would be useful 🌧️. Geoff

Yes. This is my understanding of the process:- With a perfectly level mount, and the altitude (elevation) set at (say) 45 degrees, a full 360 degree azimuth rotation of the mount should describe a circle at exactly 45 degrees to the horizon. However, if the mount was tilted slightly (say) towards the south-east, that circle would fall to below 45 degrees in a south-easterly direction, gently rising to above 45 degrees in a north-westerly direction. At power-up, the Az/Alt mount does not know where it is pointing, so the handset sets its pointing software registers to zero; equating to the OTA level and pointing to the North Pole. It works out any new position by counting pulses from the motor encoders on the 2 axes, multiplied by the gearbox ratios. When you select your first alignment star, the handset calculates the correct azimuth and altitude of that star, based on the time, date, and location that you have entered. When you centre the first star, the software can now put the "correct" Az & Alt values in its registers. When you select the second star, the mount performs an automatic slew to point the OTA towards the location in space where that star "should" be if the mount was perfectly level. The software then records the difference between its "guess" and the true position, when you have centred the star and hit "enter". It uses these differences to make a best estimate of the mount's tilt. If the 2 stars have an azimuth difference of about 90 degrees, and an altitude difference of at least 30 degrees, this makes the sums easier, and the "estimate" more accurate. It is much easier to get the mount level with a spirit level, than it is to get the OTA pointing to true (not magnetic) North. With the mount level, the calculations are likely to be more accurate, to give you a better GoTo position. It also means that the "guess" for the second star is more accurate, and so easier and quicker to find and centre. If your mount comes with a small bubble-level, it is worth checking this against a good spirit level, as I have found that the one on one of my mounts was a bit off. I marked the proper bubble position with a small blob of Tipp-ex, and that seemed to speed up alignment for future sessions. I am sure that there are other forum members who have a more detailed knowledge of the alignment process, but I hope the above explanation makes sense. I use Az/Alt Goto, but I would assume that a 3-star alignment helps to eliminate the extra polar alignment errors.

I loop the cable through one of the side handles. If the cable gets tight, the cable pulls on the shoe box, holding my plug-top supply & mains extension lead end; this slides on my patio quite well. Geoff

Your photo looks like my Skymax 127mm mount, which has the Synscan V3 handset. This handset works with my Virtuoso 90 (tracking mount with built-in buttons similar to your handset), so I would expect the electrical and signal interface to be common for tracking and GoTo. The difference is the "intelligence" in the GoTo handset. The 150mm tube, I assume it's the Newtonian, is longer than my 127mm Mak. At max slewing rates, this will place more strain on the gears as the OTA accelerates and stops. Geoff

I have the same Skyliner 250PX flextube Synscan GoTo. I bought it after enjoying the same GoTo system on my Skymax 127 Mak., but wanted more aperture. My experience is that the handset's indication of voltage is a few tenths of a volt lower than my DVM measurements at the power source. I usually use a 12V, 2.0A, plug-top mains PSU, with the 12V lead extended with about a metre of heavy-duty, white, bell flex (shows up much better in the dark). I have measured supply currents for my powered mounts:- The above are mean currents, and peaks will be slightly higher during acceleration. It is important to ensure that your 12V connectors are making good contact, and that any conductors have a decent diameter of copper. At power-up, the "system" does not know where it is pointing, so it sets its electronic registers to zero (pointing to polar North and OTA level [alt = 0]). If the previous session ended with the "Park", "HOME" function, and the base has not moved, or has been put back exactly as before, then electronic and mechanical axes are aligned, and the handset should offer a reset from park position; avoiding the need for re-alignment (you still need to update time and date). Polar alignment is not required. The alignment process corrects for any errors in the starting position, and the cross-axis coupling if the base is not level, and the OTA is not sitting accurately in the Alt axis. I have added a decent bubble level to the base, and use a wedge under one of the feet to get the base level. Turn the base so that the bubble points between 2 of the feet, and insert the wedge under the other one to centre the bubble. This ensures that the azimuth axis is as vertical as I can get it. This is not essential, but makes the alignment sums easier, and helps with the manual slew to the first alignment star. I tend to use the "Brightest Star" alignment; often at dusk, when only the brightest stars are visible to the naked eye. Currently, I select Jupiter and, as the first slew is a manual one, the handset gives me the altitude, which I use to set the marker on the altitude scale, and then stand behind the OTA as it rotates, and stop when it is pointing roughly at Jupiter. Jupiter will then be in the finder, and I do the final centre with a 25mm EP and slew rate 4. Now the mount does a proper 2-star alignment, but with the advantage that it will do an automatic slew to the first star. Again, currently, Altair and Arcturus are visible from my garden, and make good alignment stars, clear of trees, fences and houses; and with good azimuth and altitude differences. I spent a few hours with the "Stellarium" program on my PC. I adjusted the date and dusk time for the middle of each month of the year, and selected 3, 4, or 5 bright stars, visible from my garden, and giving good azimuth and altitude separation. The table gives rough direction (N, NW, W etc.) and the altitude angle. I ended up with a table of 14 stars (+ Polaris, if stuck, makes a reasonable 2nd star), mostly the alphas of their respective constellations. I did the same for 1 hour before dawn, but this table has had little use. I had to add a weight at the primary end of the OTA, as the clutch tended to slip if I was using a binoviewer, DSLR or my 2" 56mm EP. I also tightened, slightly, the altitude axis nut; but still leaving enough slack for manual adjustments. Geoff

This is what I use Geoff

Your logic is sound; provided that the connectors are making good contact, and the leads have decent copper conductors to minimise volts-drop. The optimum is to have the split as close as possible to the power tank, so that the two loads have a minimum effect on each other. Geoff

The T-thread gives you the option of attaching a DSLR camera + t-ring directly, in place of the eyepiece, so your telescope becomes the equivalent of a "long lens". The photo below shows an equivalent setup, but without the Barlow lens in the adaptor. Geoff

Looking at the manual, its internal capacity is 9Ah. With normal regular use, it is probably sensible not to use more than 50% of its capacity before recharging, so giving you 4.5 Ah. Most mounts use maximum power when slewing at high speed, and a lot less when tracking, particularly for your EQ mount, where tracking is only active in 1 axis. Your suggested power pack should give you several hours of reliable observing before you need to recharge it. Geoff