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Found 7 results

  1. Hi, Background: There will probably be too much information below, but my level of knowledge in electronics is unfortunately low. I own a EQ-5 - upgraded to pro with synscan, a SW 150pds and a SSAG guidecam on a 9x50. I bought this with the purpose of AP. I have my telescope on the porch, so i can sit inside with the PC (5m distance) and power everything from the socket in the wall inside. I live in Norway where there is 230V 50hz AC in the wall. I have understood most telescope equipment (?) is powered by 12v DC. The mount came with a 12V "car-connector" which im sure people are familiar with. But i didnt wish to use this, so instead i bought a plug (European), which the picture below shows. It is like a multipurpose plug where i can choose 12V and also choose different "pc-style" connectors in the other end. I am currently powering the mount via this plug to a 20m extension cord with 4 sockets. It's labeled "250V AC 50HZ". (picture below) I plug the USB3-powered SSAG straight to the computer. I plug the synscan controller to the computer with an adaptor to make it USB in the other end. So to the core of this post: I now have an ZWO ASI1600MM PRO (DC 12V 3A), with a 8 slot ZWO filter-wheel (USB2.0 powered - guess this connects to the camera). On its way. I also have a NEQ6 PRO on its way (12V 2A) - so no more EQ5 - but same power requirements. And lastly i have a HitecAstro 4 channel dew controller on its way (12V DC) - which i plan to use with a Omegon secondary mirror heating strap, SMALL (https://www.astroshop.eu/heater-bands-controls/omegon-secondary-mirror-heating-strip-small/p,56529#tab_bar_1_select), and maybe something else down the line. The strap uses 0,18amps the product specifications says. So....... With this setup, and from home like described: 1. -Plan is to use the 12v 2.25A adaptor-plug from the EQ5 on the NEQ6. -Buy another one just like it, for the dew-controller. I dont know what Ampere it needs, but the dew-strap is only 0,18A. -Buy a upgraded 12V 3A (or 5A) for the ZWO ASI1600 and 5m USB3.0 to PC. -Plug filterwheel to ZWO. -Plug guidecamera to PC as before - Or can this go straight to the ZWO? -Plug the EQ6 via the Synscan ST4(?) to USB 5m to the PC. So the mount, the ZWO and the dew-controller will go to the extension cord-cable drum outside which goes to the wall inside. The PC will go to the wall inside ofcourse. Can i do this? 2. If no: How should i do this?
  2. Hi all. I have just bought a Celestron 18771-CGL power tank to allow me to get out to the dark skies of the South Downs with my Nexstar 8SE. This is a great bit of kit because it's so light and portable and powers the scope for hours no problem. However, I've also been thinking about getting a dew heater and the only downside of the power tank is it's lack of a second 12v output. I was looking on the First Light Optics website and they sell a DC splitter cable to allow two devices to be powered from a single output. I'm not an electrician obviously, but logical tells me if the dew heater controller is also a 12v device there should be no problem running both the scope and the heater at the same time other than draining the battery faster. Is anyone using a splitter cable in this way? Or can anyone confirm my logic is flawed?
  3. Good day, I own a skywatcher Heq5 pro mount, its awesome! I just realized the AC wire for my AC / DC adapter is broken (see pic 1). I found another AC wire from an old AC adapter and was wondering if this is ok? I see the gauge wire is bigger though and wonder if it matters? I am thinking of cutting near the female adapter and soldering it back to the entire length of wire that came from the laptop adapter even though the gauge is bigger. ( see pic 2). Thank you.
  4. Hi Guys, I was using my scope last night following the Doris malarky. I was sitting on the floor with the power jack connected up in my HEQ5 PRO trying to get polar alignment. The mount was not turned on (I can't see polaris with that super bright illuminated polar scope) but it was plugged in with power. The legs of the mount felt like it was buzzing up my arms, almost furry feeling. As I was putting my eyes close to the polar scope I could feel the charge coming from that too when I accidentally knocked it. It seems everything metal was giving off a charge. The moment I took the power jack out, it obviously stopped. What could be at fault here? The mount worked correctly through my session but just quite worried in the long term I will be damaging my long saved for mount. (I have never experienced this in my previous outings about 6 days prior). The power to the unit is supplied by a basic DC to cigar car transformer. Is it worth replacing this component in the mix or maybe the Sky Watcher jack cable? Any advice always is much appreciated
  5. So my birthday just past so money to splash on astro stuff , i will have my 1000D modded by juan at cheapastrophotography and also have ordered an autofocuser from deepsky dad https://deepskydad.com/autofocuser i know they can be done DIY but this is a neat package and costs about the same as a SW autofocuser and a hitechastro focusmaster and i`m no electronic wizard and pavel seems to have a good product and works with ascom and confirmed it works with APT i will update in a few weeks time when hopefully i will have received and tried out .
  6. Decided to put cooling fans on my newtonians a 200pds and a 130pds ,used a 120mm on the 200 and a 80mm on the 130pds ,i used, Be Quite silent Wings2 fans they use rifle bearings and are so quite German made, i did the 200 first and was impressed with this make so ordered the same make for the 130 pds it comes with a lead with four wires but only needed neg ang pos so snipped other two out , made a disc from plastic and cut out around collimation screws on primary then used velcro to attach to OTA fitted a 2.1mm dc socket on to the disc then bought a usb lead to 2.1mm barrel though i may fit another 2.1mm socket on my power box and use 12v either way it works ,i used a dimmer on the 200pds but it doesnt need it and wouldn't use it again but its fitted now so will leave in place.
  7. After all this high end refractor talk happening I'm wondering a couple of things. What is the difference between a Tak FC 100 DF and an FC 100 DC? Also how do they compare for nebula viewing?
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