RayD

Great idea. I like that, Gina.

? Given the opportunities to star gaze lately you'd probably get more use out of it if you did!

Great news with the window, Kev. That's an absolute bargain. Getting really close to a finish now (if that's even possible).

Good find, Stu. For those not that way inclined, finding somewhere to get custom cables made can be a bit of a challenge. Look forward to seeing if it works, and the link.

Great news! Look forward to seeing the results.

Hmmm, well I wish you luck with this. I wouldn't think there are too many people shooting 90 degree FOV subs other than with an all-sky camera, as do I, but I don't apply flats to the images.

Definitely. However, I think for most, and certainly me when I built mine, simplicity, reliability and cost play big factors, and not necessarily in that order.

Thanks, James. That wasn't the one I was thinking of, but I hadn't seen that one and it looks an even nicer job.

As with many things on these forums, there is no definitive right or wrong way, just one which, on balance, suits the application best.

Indeed, but wiping a rail clean is easier than wiping 6 wheels.

Ah yes, I remember seeing that one, too. Really clever.

Wheels upside down will work, but you increase the likelihood of dirt, debris and general grime (birdy door dahs) getting on the wheels' running surface and causing running issues. More of an issue if powered, but still avoidable by having them on the rolling section.

Yes, someone did one very recently. A nice job.

How spooky that I was writing the same thing at the same time!!

Are you not talking yourself in to the conclusion that this wide an angle lens is not suitable for AP when flats are needed? I can only think of something like a custom made flat box, but with diffused lighting from behind the front face of the lens. The diffused and reflected light would mean an even illumination, and the rear orientation of the light source means you won't see LED's.

Hmmmmm interesting, and dare I say.........BIG. Wonder how much?

I have the CEM120 EC and it is very well built, well specced and potential for superb performance. There were a couple of firmware issues (a random slew) which has been addressed, but a real pleasure to use. I've done an introduction video and will shortly be posting an update video showing connecting, updating firmware and running in anger.

Just for reference on the Eagle2, they are an Intel NUC with the 4 USB 3 ports being part of the NUC, and the 4 USB 2 ports being on a separate board, along with the power ports and dew heaters, which is made by PLL and connects via a USB header on the NUC.

I wouldn't rule it out yet. If at all possible just try it on another PC as I had no end of USB problems and they all fell on deaf ears and the solution was sending my Eagle 2 Pro back, and reverting to my mini PC, and not a single issue since. Worth a try just to rule out the seemingly unlikely.

Cheers, Bob. I bet the Star71 looks totally lost! I'm probably going to have the FSQ106 and C8 on mine, which it will handle with ease I'm sure.

Thanks, Steve. Yes there is only so much slewing and poking you can do on a desk before even a nice mount like this becomes boring!! I'm really excited to get it working in anger and will definitely post the results.

Update. Well the pier is made and sitting in my living room in Spain awaiting my arrival. From what I can see on the cameras, and from what the friend who dropped it off for me says, it looks top drawer and really well made. Can't wait to get there and get the CEM120 mounted on it now. Hoorah ?

This is where I got mine, Kev. If you prefer they also do them in black here, but these ones don't have the rubber strip. I got this one specifically because it was only 17mm deep

No problem, Kev. Yes it's a proper drip strip. Works a treat and as it is shallow I can open the door all the way on to the little catch. I'll dig out where I got it and let you know. Understood with the cover. I don't have one, but then I have a door sensor connected to the main house alarm on the door. I think there comes a point where you have to acknowledge that if someone really wants in, they're in! Maybe just one of the internal shoot bolt type window locks discussed earlier in your thread sort of semi-covertly installed at the top or bottom just to prevent this being done. Not particularly secure as such, but just that extra little bit to slow someone down if they are trying to pop the lock. As you quite rightly say, it's tough to make a decision as how far do you go? In any case, someone breaking in will probably just want to move in there, it looks superb