RayD

I used a pretty slimline aluminium strip at the bottom of mine. Been through a few downpours now and not let anything in. I don't have anything at the top, but it is under an overhang, so probably not going to be subject to the same battering as yours. The gap at 6mm is a reasonable size, and I suspect a good tug with a crowbar would pop that in no time. I'd go for the metal strip just to prevent that being an easy option.

I'm just glad I managed to put my Spiderman outfit away in the wardrobe, could have been very embarrassing ?

Should have hidden my trainers shouldn't I? They were the give away ?

Great advice

230v in the scope room is fine, Kev, so long as it is RCD protected. My preference, just a personal one, is to not have 230v at the pier as there is no need for it, and invariably it will mean you just need to add a power supply at that point in any case. I have mine wired on 2 x 20A radials, one for the warm room and one for the scope room. This means if there is an issue in the scope room it isn't going to take out all the power to the computer etc. My scope room radial is used for dehumidifier, USB camera and second monitor supply. It also gives me a couple of sockets for small power tools and my little electric blower etc. I'm not saying there is a right and a wrong as everyone has an opinion, but to put another conduit under at this stage is pretty easy, to do it later if you need to (accepting you may not) is going to be a bit more problematic.

There you go, it will all be fine then. My view has always been that of the IET (of which I am a member) which is where power and data (LV and ELV) is combined in a trunking or conduit, the run should be less than 1m and, if unavoidable, all cables should be rated at the highest circuit value. This is in case there is a short circuit situation causing the higher current to travel down the smaller cable, not to do with cross talk. However, even with the best cables I suspect the likelihood of, or potential for, interference is increased also. As I said, Kev, it may well be fine from an operational perspective, and as far as obsy's go it is belt and braces, but using one conduit (a plastic drainpipe is a conduit) for power and data without physical segregation really isn't the right way of doing it as far as the wiring regulations go, but it's your build so you do it how you feel is right. Really looking forward to seeing it progress and working in time for winter, which I'm sure you are also.

The main problem probably wouldn't manifest on Cat5 cables due to their construction, but USB ones are the likely problem point. You will be at the upper length limit of USB2 cables, so any interference will be accentuated and can easily result in dropped frames etc. As noted, it may well never be a problem, but I'd hate for you to do all this hard work to end up with problems when the additional conduit (it doesn't have to be a big one) will make sure you not only have capacity, but also as good as you can realistically get with separation. 230V mains and 5v is not a good combination for parallel runs. There can be issues, but it would normally be over longer distances than this. The problem isn't really about how close, as the cables can cross at right angles quite happily, it is about how long they are in close proximity for (parallel runs). 13.8v and 5v won't be an issue as far as voltages go. It is a bit belt and braces to separate them for a run of this length, but then so is your whole build. Your warm room is pretty close to your pier so you could happily run 12v (13.8 ideally) which is exactly what I do. I have 2 power supplies in the warm room, one for the mount and the other for the rest, so only have 13.8v at the pier.

Yes just purely this, Kev. Ideally you want to restrict the length of parallel run with data and power in close proximity. For your mount you will naturally have some up to the OTA which is pretty well unavoidable, but limiting it elsewhere is advisable if possible. Don't think I'm saying you should as naturally it may well be absolutely fine, it is purely a suggestion whilst it is still pretty easy to do. Screen next to the mount is ideal. I have a monitor on the wall next to my mount in the scope room and it comes in really handy

Looking superb, Kev, loving it. My advice is, if you can and have the space, put a second pipe under. Run power in one and data in the other. Small addition at this point but could save huge issues further down the line.

If you use nyloc nuts on washers on the inside it wouldn't matter if they did as they wouldn't undo

You know if I thought there was a market here, Steve, I would probably get 100 made and have a range of pier tops.

Now there was a double take. I thought that said "Water Level" on the side of that camera ? Oh god, old age is truly setting in!!!

Aha, I shall hang on to this word in hope ?

Exactly that, Kev. OSB is very strong, in fact, in sheer it is actually stronger than ply. OSB also resists water ingress better........However, (always one of those) this means it does not dry as quickly as ply, and is why it can be prone to bad swelling, particularly at edges (even more so if cut and not carefully treated). Both products will work just fine, the OSB will just take a little more care to make sure it stays as it was laid i.e. sealing edges and nail/screw holes etc.

Super job. Thanks Steve, that's a really useful document Thank you for taking the time to produce it.

Now that would look the part!!

No need for marine ply, Kev. Just hardwood faced ply is fine and perfect for flooring.

Definitely 18mm with the quality of your build, Kev. I went for 18mm hardwood faced ply and it is perfect. The difference in cost at this stage isn't huge.

Lol looking at this thread anything over £50 is expensive anyway, so probably not ?

I must admit I didn't anticipate a competition on who's get the cheapest pier. I was just noting the difference in cost for the same custom made pier in the UK and Spain, not necessarily that it was the cheapest pier in Europe. I'm just waiting for someone to come along who got paid to let someone make a pier for them ?

Yes local village fabricator in Spain, Dave.

£20!! Crikey, I couldn't buy the materials for the top and bottom plates for that. I assume it was done as a bit of a 'favour'.

The odd thing in the local villages is that tipping is almost frowned upon. If there is a service or product supplied at a price and all is as expected, if you tip it can be seen as you inferring you are somehow better than them. If you get a table service in a bar you can tip as that isn't included. All very odd and hard to get used to.

? I'm not even sure they know there has been one. They are really good and have made all sorts for me such as railings and raja's (window guards) etc. I must admit I was expecting €250 or so.