spillage

I would use araldite or poxy resin. Think that would stop any movement.

Would there not be a good size overlap incorporated into it when shut? There should also be a small gap between the two parts and I would consider a bead of silicone sealer and or adding a folded return on the edge of the inner panel to stop the wet and allowing it to run down and out. @akb beat me to it....

I can only add that you us a eqdir and allow phd to drift align until the graph starts moving along. I find that until the graph starts moving my pa will not settle down.

I think you have to accept that the 500d is not £1000 ccd camera so it will not ever beat those ccd images. But with enough data I get good results (for now). It's just a case of being happy with the kit you have and the results it gives you. At the moment I am sure other things are effecting my results ie mount balance, PA, PHD settings. All of this even before I sit down and try to process the data. All in good time and some of the guys/gals on here have been at this game for a long time so do not get too disheartened if your not up to their standards. I have had startools for a while but only now am I realizing the little extra things in it and the power of using the mask. I know pixinsight has more followers but I think that it is very linear in its use. I really like the way you can choose your own route that suites you in st.

try using the lens feature in st. It will remove some of your coma. I also find when adjusting the color if you click on the roi it should after a few click mask out the galaxy/nebula fairly well. You can then adjust only this and then invert the mask to adjust the image outside the roi. I an not sure how you do things but I always bin my images from my 500d by 50% then use lens then autodev and wipe...etc. I am still learning but maybe one day I will get there. I also find it hard to know if its rubbish data or just my processing skills but I am sure over time both will improve. Cheers Spill.

Hi Geoff, The eqdirect lead allows you to remove the handset from the setup. This means less leads. You can then use a bluetooth controller playstaion/xbox via eqmod to control the mount if needed. This is the lead here and here is some info on its use (the is further down the page).

i have tried several time and use the st80 and qhy5 mono. I just can get it to pick up enough stars. Will keep trying but for now an using php2 drift align.

Glad you resolved it. I was reading the post and was going to mention this as I still forget this from time to time. You might find cdc much better than stellarium. It may seem hard work to start off with but its so worth putting in the effort. I would also like to mention that you do not need to set up anything on the handset (not sure if you do) just pc direct.

I was under the impression on a post I read a while a go on here that the ir filter will filter out unwanted ir whilst allowing wanted ir onto the sensor. Sure it also mentioned it helps with processing the image. Maybe it was because it lets all the Ha pass but reduces the ir.

Thanks for all the info provided. I think I will stick with 2" filters and for now will just get a uv/ir filter and in the future if/when I ditch the dslr for ccd then slowly purchase nb filters. Can I ask if anyone has or tried or even compared the more expensive uv/ir filters compared to the £15 chinese ones available on ebay. Will I really notice a difference when using a cheap one with my dslr.

Thanks all for you advice. I will look around for a coma corrector to come up for sale first then look towards buying 2" filters at a later date. Cheers Spill.

Hi All, I currently have a canon dslr and now looking at either purchasing a coma corrector for my 150pds or some filters. I am sure I would be better off with standard filters rather than clip in. Am I right in thinking that most ccd cameras use 1.25 filters. I only ask because I am not sure if buying 2" filters would be a good choice. I am just thinking of a possible future upgrade to a ccd and dont want to waste money on 2" filters to have to then go and buy 1.25 ones. Is there going to be any difference using 2" over 1.25" with a dslr. Cheers Spill.

That why we should all have duct tape in our cars..I find taping large stones to your mount resolve this one...

Or the large notice above the extension lead plug marked "DO NOT UNPLUG OR TURN OFF!!!" is clearly and securely in place. I must admit it make me slightly tired just reading that list but good effort.

Do you not click on the brain icon and in advacned setup change the dec guide mode in the top right?

Most are 1.25" and some come with a 2" adapter. As long as everything is secure it will be fine.

Hi abhoriel, It just one of those things that seems really daunting but after a couple of time you wonder why. Just need to give it time for the penny to drop on what you are looking at and what needs doing. I you can loosen and tighten a screw then you will be fine. I would recommend a cheshire collimator rather than a laser one.

I am having the exact same issue with my 150pds. Have done another collimation and just waiting for a half clear sky to test. Sure the fault is all mine after I stripped it to flock the thing..

Yes this works fine and running on mint 17.3 64bit.

Have a look at eclipse or Kcom as they are now know. Really good support if its ever needed. Been with them for about 15 years and always had a static ip that I can change whenever needed. Not sure if they still do it but also free webspace and address. Domain email address.....

Hi Steve, I think this is what CJ is saying. To view dso images by taking away using your eye then you will need to take long exposures so will no be a live view image as such. If you think about it the human eye has massive advantages over a £100 webcam so will always out perform it. Planets will be fine and stars but that really is all you can do with live view imo.