adyj1

If you do manage to achieve this I suggest keeping it to yourself. Robert Brown has had many requests to provide ASIAIR compatibility for myFocuserPro, but has not done so because he says he'd have ZWO lawyers on the phone...

When I committed to 1.25" filters I noted from an online resource that the maximum sensor size (across the diagonal) for 1.25" filters is just over 22mm. Your APS-C sensor is 28.3mm diagonal... Ady

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Perhaps add Vixen 102 to the title?

Vlaiv, how old was your ender 3? I don't know if you've seen the newer V3 version, but a very experienced 3d printing chum of mine got an ender v3 and it 'just works'. Out of the box it was doing in-place articulated print jobs that I was very envious of. (I have a heavily modded original Ender 5). If it falls in your budget I think the ender v3 is a great choice. Ady

(Patriot Astro YouTube channel is another great resource for NINA tutorials.

What infill percentage did you use? I must admit, I've printed a few astro bits at 100% for peace of mind - even though it shouldn't strictly be necessary.

Can I ask why the DC 5521 barrel connectors aren't considered to be adequate? I got rid of any cigarette lighter connectors on my cables and toyed with using two-pin GX12 aviation connecters - but decided to stick with the 5521's as the centre-positive wiring is a common standard and I'd never had any problems with them. Ady

Apologies, I should not have relied on memory - you are correct. I haven't bothered with a power meter as my simple understanding of lifepo4 is that it maintains the steady voltage then drops off quickly. I probably should add one.

I can confirm that Virgin Atlantic only allow 2 x 100Wh batteries, and I purchased similar batteries to @Adam Jwhen I travelled in September 2023. (British Airways allowed 2 x150Wh). The VA website said to ring the help desk if you were carrying these batteries, which I dutifully did a couple of weeks before the flight. Having taken all my flight details, I expected some extra checks at check-in, but nothing happened - at no time did anyone ask anything about batteries... I don't have anything as fancy as Adam for connecting the batteries in the field - a diy barrel power connector wired to two pairs of spade connectors so they are both connected at the same time. My diy 1-to-4 3d-printed power box has five 5.5/2.1 barrel sockets, with one fused for input. This worked a treat with an AP rig of AZ-Gti, NUC PC, and ASI533MC Pro. (I didn't need dew straps on account of being in the mojave desert 😁)

£39! - that's an excellent price. I have similar 12v 8AH LiFePO4 batteries that I bought last August and paid £48. I was allowed to take two on a Virgin flight to the US - they had to carried in hand luggage, so just as well they are very light. I also got a dedicated LiFePO4 charger from Amazon for £30. I'll be using it to power my HEM27 in the field (bought after the US trip). [ weak attempt to get things back on topic 😉 ] Ady

There's a horizon creator plugin in NINA - you slew your telescope along your visible horizon and click a button at each point you move up or down. The file it creates is the list of numbers you need. Worked well for me

I had one of these with an astroeq... 3d printing is your friend - there are bases that can be printed which fill in that gap, in fact they are designed to house the whole stepper motor. Found this on thingiverse as an example Ady

I had one of these with an astroeq... 3d printing is your friend - there are bases that can be printed which fill in that gap, in fact they are designed to house the whole stepper motor. Ill try to dig out pictures... Ady

You have the jump on me with that, for sure 😉. For one thing, I forgot the BMS was in the battery not the charger... I will always bow to real-world proven experience, and you have clearly explained the reasons for your advice. Thank you 👍

Whilst I'm normally in the same way of thinking as @Carbon Brush in trying to find 'good enough' alternatives, there's a lot written about charging LifePo4 correctly or at the very least you will reduce battery life. For something as expensive as this, I'd be looking at using a charger specifically for LifePo4, and take a hit on the extra bulk.

Don't forget that the HEM mounts have an internal 12v pass-through and a power outlet on the top of the mount. That's where the extra amps come in useful powering the rest of your rig... Just checked the docs and they rate the top socket for "4A when using the included AC adapter". (thankfully the 12v socket on the saddle is 5.5/2.1mm barrel rather than the slightly awkward 5.5/2.5mm on the mount body)

By coincidence I got something very similar last night, when setting up my new 8" F4 Newtonian with a nearby overhead light switched on (small black smudges across each exposure). I got quite worried until it went away when I switched the light off #phew

I wish more manufacturers did this...

Don't let me stop you buying another one, but there's nothing special about a talentcell charger - 12v/3A DC 5.5/2.1mm barrel plug... (switch the battery on to charge) Ady

I have the HEM27, and the centre hole on that is not threaded and just used for a locator pin - it's the bolts on the east/west sides of the mount that clamp it to the base. From the FLO pictures the HEM15 looks similar, but if you can screw it to a photo tripod in that would be handy. Mind you, without a counterweight, I imagine the centre of balance could move quite a bit away from centre, so I would assume you would have to make sure you use a pretty stable tripod...

Yes, it comes with a 'proper' handset (star database and all the gubbins), but no counterweight bar. The payload is 8kg without a counterweight, and 12kg with (it takes the same counterweight bar as the Skyguider Pro).

@Mr SpockHow easy is it to get hold of that velcro? Sounds like what I need...

I'm impressed with what these pi cameras are able to achieve...

This is also my experience. It isn't NINA causing this, but EQMOD and your mount. If you power off everything between sessions, then when you start EQMOD it will revert to its default start position - and assumes the scope is weights-down, pointing North. As far as I know there isn't a setting to get EQMOD to change this power-on default (although I have no experience of encoder-equipped mounts). I am lucky enough to have an observatory, and as long as I maintain power EQMOD 'remembers' the custom park position. However, just to be on the safe side when I start a new session after any kit has been powered off, I run my planetarium software (CdC) and sync position with the mount before carrying out any slews. I can then see on the screen where my mount 'thinks' it is pointing, and if it is North rather than 'sideways-parked' I open the roof and manually point the scope north before then carrying on with my session... HTH Ady