Adam J

For me there is no competition here the ASI294mc pro is a much more sensitive camera. I might consider the ASI183mc pro on the 300mm lens but the 294 will still work fine on the 300mm and but the 294 will trounce the on the ES102. Of course something like the Atik Horizon Color might be a balance between pixel size and sensitivity across all your scopes.

Looking great, Some tilt on the right side of the image, out of interest what lens adaptor are you using that is a heavy camera. A picture of your setup would be awesome. Adam

I have used a UHC filter to image with a OSC and its almost the same thing but a bit wider. I have not used a Duel narrow band myself but its the same concept.

Might be an idea was this at F2?

I assume then that there was some vignetting but that it was still correctable.

whats your thoughts on reducing that to t2 thread straight after the M48 thread? would that result in vignetting?

Hi what size filters are you using with the lens and at what F-ratio with the ASI1600mm pro?

Looks more like you need a little more spacing on the corrector to me. Maybe try 56mm back focus.

Yes the filter within a 1.25 inch thread is actually only a clear aperture of between 24mm and 27mm depending on brand.

1.25 will be no problem at F5, but 31mm filters are virtually the same cost... 36mm filters are not required for a ASI1600mm pro.

Well first things first an Esprit is not £1599 they have recently gone up on FLO to £1059 though. If its price to performance ratio you are looking for then you will never beat a SW 80 ED or 130PDS and a DSLR. Anything more than that and although performance increases your price to performance ratio will go down. So forgetting price to performance ratio I would say that the ESPRIT 80 is a significantly better scope than the SW80ED but you pay for it, hence if you have the cash grab the better scope, if you don't have the case then get the cheaper scope. The main difference between the two is F-ratio, color correction and the Esprit has a much nicer focuser. Either of the cameras are going to work with the Esprit at 400mm focal lenght. I would personally find the larger sensor of the ASI1600mm pro preferable if using the longer focal lenght ED80 though. You will want to look up micro lense diffration pattern in relation to the ASI1600mm pro before you make a purchase. Adam

Got to be honest I think you need to push that OIII data more I am not actually seeing the additional features that I would expect to see in a OIII image of the Cresent in comparison to the Ha. Might be interesting to see the OIII data on its own. Adam

I went mono and to be honest I am happy with that choice, I will spend 30 hours intergration on an image and in the UK that can mean 1 - 2 images per season due to weather. As such I have no issues with the idea of shooting different filters on different nights as I know that in the end 30hours of LRGB or Ha/OIII is always going to give me a better result in comparison to an OSC sensor of the same type. However....the counter argument to this is that if your not willing to spend more than one evening imaging a given target and your happy with the result you might well be better off with OSC as it will always give you a single image in a single night. Some of the new duel narrow band / tri narrow band filters are great for imaging in light pollution with an OSC. Another thing I would consider with OSC is using it in a highly mobile setup, so something you would take on holiday with you. Same reasons, you get all your data in one night and if your like me then if your taking your kit then its because your going to some place dark when light pollution is not an issue and you will be shooting Broad Band anyhow. But in the end across the board Mono is higher performance if your committed to putting time into your imaging. Adam

As good as this is I think that using Astro Pixel Processor to bring it together would take it to a new level.

I would not use a filter wheel, you dont need one, just get a 2 inch Duel Narrow band filter and a 2 inch LP filter and thats all you should need. Just screw them to the corrector and change them over dependent on what you are planning to image.

Yes now I just need FLO to start stocking the Samyang Lens lol.

Very good, what did you use to stitch it all together?

I am most likely getting one of these so hold one for me please. 🙂

What scope and mount do you use and what do you want to image?

Sounds like something lots of people would find very useful.

All, I will be going to Aus for a month early next year and am thinking of one of these for portable work with my ASI1600mm pro. I see a large number of people supporting both the lens and the camera as opposed to clamping only the lens or only the camera to the mount, is this strictly required or are people just doing it because droop / flex is an issue with the canon connector? Adam

Nice images, do you have the aperture stopped down for these? The stars seem very tight. Adam

I think its the other way around, normally you place the laser spot in the centre of the primary spot by adjusting the secondary position then in my case i change to a barlowed laser to project the image of the primary mirror spot back into the centre of the laser colimator, the Barlow takes out the effects of tilt. Of course if you dont already have the secondary centred in the focuser then you will need to adjust that with the Cheshire to centre it but that is a slightly different process to adjusting its tilt.

The ZWO is designed to indirectly heat the optical window with waste heat from the thermal electric cooler. I have not heard of anyone having problems with it.

My advice is to go with the tried and tested solution.