davew

I now use this software almost exclusively when using a DSLR / ML and camera lenses. You'd think that a piece of software this good would be better known as it's been around almost six years now and is constantly being added to and updated. I don't seem to get the problems reported by Kat because I use a system very similar to the way Tony Hallas processes his images in that I don't tend to use flats or darks and use a Raw Converter instead. In my case it's Adobe Lightroom. I'm not so sure I'd use it with a scope but haven't got round to testing it out yet. Even after a few years of thinking about it ! Dave.

Hi Keefs, As a life long user of Nikon cameras I have to say the 3*** series cameras are the only modern Nikon DSLRs I wouldn't recommend for Astro use, on a scope at least. They are fine for static camera use on a tripod as I've been with a couple of people using them with great results. Can you send a link to what you've read as I think it sounds flaky at best. The D5300 is fine and in use the world over. If I had to buy a Canon camera under pain of death ( 😇 ) then it would be a secondhand 6D or an R6. However, my needs probably wouldn't line up with yours, Dave. Just remembered that someone said they used qDslrDashboard on a D3*** some time ago. There may be a thread on it.

A very interesting talk, thanks. Dave.

Excellent again Paul. Here's to many more this year. Have a good new year, Dave.

Hi Paul, As has been said, there are better alternatives. I have never used the Atik 8300 colour but I have used a ( non Atik ) mono 8300 on and off for 10 years. Owning one tended to attract me to what others thought and wrote and I can't remember ever seeing a serious review or comment that said anything good about the 8300 colour chip. If you read the Starizona advert it appears to be talking about the way superior mono and not the colour form many years ago. The second thing to note is this chip is not in any way a low noise chip unless you're comparing it to a nuclear explosion The third, it's one of the lowest QE figures with 33% efficiency in the important red. But don't let me put you off ! Dave.

It looks the same as mine too and I'm not in the least concerned. Dave.

Cheers for taking the time Martin. This was my first zoom so I barely knew how to use the thing ! I hope the challenges reappear at some future point. Dave.

As you've found, the filter is blocking off most of the light you need to focus in live view. What you can try and it MAY help with the Z cameras ( It does for nightscape use on a static tripod ) on the flip out screen is - Assuming the camera is on and in manual then go to the right of the view finder where you'll find the DISP button. Around that is the photo to video lever. Turn the video lever to video, turn up the ISO to Hi2.00, shutter speed to 1/25. With a camera lens you'd also set the FR wide open. If it helps go to the Menu and in the spanner section, turn up the monitor brightness. Now you can just flip between photo and video and the photo settings aren't altered. This brightens up the live view but it still may not be good enough so then do what is suggested above. Just something to try 😎 Dave.

If you are talking about fitting glass to the holder in front of the chip then as far as I can remember, and it's going back a while, the sizes of of cover glass are not only different between makers but also between some different models by the same maker. Another very slight difference is the thickness of glass. I used to have the sizes on a laptop somewhere but alas, no longer ! Most Nikon mods that are done these days appear to be cut to size clear glass so cutting your own Baader glass may be a good option if you can cut it ok. From what I remember the difference in thickness didn't cause too many focus issues and the Nikon ones were normally thicker. ( Of course now I've said that you'll now find they're thinner !! ) At the back of my mind somewhere I seem to remember Ted at Hutech either doing cover glass or at least talking about them. Perhaps try asking the same question on Cloudy Nights as Nikon cameras are way more popular over there and someone may know. Dave

https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/infraredcameraconversion Dave.

Good point. It looks like Protech are more interested in daylight IR. On the other hand they may, if asked, fit a modified Baader filter if that's what the customer wants. For my part retaining auto focus would not be my main concern but focusing at infinity with a camera lens would be ! As Manchester will be in lock down for another few months at least, I'll have time to think about it. Dave.

Hmm ... Very interesting. In the weeks to come I may well send them an email. Cheers Bottletop, Dave.

Having done similar stuff myself and finding DSS doesn't like a quarter of the stars missing due to trees then I'd do what happy-kat suggests. One thing of note though, Sequator only works under Windows but not only is it very accurate it's also lightening fast. Other than that then you can still use Sequator on a full starry image or follow the clues left by the others re the DSS problems you have. Dave.

That's at least some good news so I hope it all works out ok. There are clip in filters for Nikon cameras but I don't know if your particular camera is covered. Dave.

I'm afraid I can't suggest anywhere to get this mod done other than the USA ! I have a feeling this is one of those self fulfilling prophesies where there's so little interest that no one offers the service. There's a guy in Romania that does Nikon I believe, who advertised on eBay, but I don't know anything about him. Have you spoken to Andy Ellis ? He may be able to advise even if he doesn't do them - http://www.astronomiser.co.uk/contact.htm Have you emailed JTW again ? I know someone who had them mod a Nikon some time ago. Dave.

I get blamed for everything 😇 Oh yes, that's looking good. Lighting all the ground up has worked very well too as it sets the crusher apart from the background. I'm still not jealous of all your great locations ! Dave. Old Gang Mill is still near the top of my places to visit ... one year !

Flat frames need calibrating before use so it could be a good idea to shoot some flat darks. Just use the same settings to take the darks as were used taking the flats. I've heard the minimum time for taking bias frames with your camera is around 0.2 seconds so anything longer should be good to go. Dave.

To my eye that is every bit as good as I thought it was going to be. If you hadn't mentioned the aircraft then I probably wouldn't have noticed. What I have to remember however is that it's your image so you do what you, and not I , think is better. Either way up that's a very nice first image to post and I hope to see more. All the best, Dave.

That's a nice star trail image and looks quite good showing through the leaves and branches. You've got star colour showing and not too much movement in the leaves. Can I ask in what way those subs were spoilt ? I do know that lighter patches ( cloud or con trails ) do get included in the final stack and that can look a bit odd if it looks like smearing. Did you try stacking all the subs and if so, did it look bad ? If not, do you fancy giving it another go and see what happens. I'd be interested anyway 😎 Dave.

Lovely star trails with tons of star colour and a good composition. Can you tell I like it ? The other one surprises me as I've thought about shooting through bushes but always assumed it wouldn't work. You've changed my mind so I'm going to try it out now. Cheers, Dave.

Oh yes, arriving Thursday. Looking forward to it as holidays are few and far between these days. The weather may not co-operate but I'm sure a few walks in the forest will ease the mind. I'll be doing my usual and that is looking for puddles to image the Milky Way in 😉 See you there ? Dave.

Glad you've enjoyed it and thanks for coming back to say. There are a few ways I've tried to blend a background sky and a lightened foreground and the method he shows is, for me, the easiest and cleanest. Funnily enough the Neowise image wasn't done the same way and if you were to zoom right in then you can just detect the join ! Well, I can 😏 Dave.

Ah thanks. No I haven't missed anything. You and I go about things differently. I will track a sky only shot to make a sky shot ( Home or camp site ) and for landscapes I do static tripod shots. I only carried a tracker up a big hill once and won't be repeating the experience any time soon. 😎 So, going back to the original question then I'd say as long as the lens you use is fairly well corrected then I doubt you'll have many problems. I've heard good things said about the Tokina 11-20 f 2.8 and the Samyang 12 f2 but I've used neither. Dave.

Out of a matter of interest, and the fact I may be missing something, what program do you use for stacking with Astro landscape type images ? My stacked images are almost entirely static but I don't use 500. Normally around 350 and may be a little longer if pointed directly north ( South for you of course ) That may help with stacking too as the stars are in better shape. Dave.

I've not imaged much recently with an APSC camera but I, and quite a few others, use 14mm lenses on FF. As happy-cat says, Sequator is the best App for Astro landscapes ( Windows ) or Starry landscape stacker ( Mac ). Sequator is quite good on very widefield sky shots with no landscape. I've stacked 20 widefield shots in Sequator and don't see any problems. Dave.