alacant

This is why it isn't working Lose this setting.

That is a version of the real thing marketed by Skywatcher. Get the proper version. That is a m48 to m42 adaptor. I'd recommend losing that adaptor and using m48 throughout. If you are serious about the AP thing, I'd recommend you get a set of m48 extension rings.

Welcome:) The two frames do not cover the same field of view and the second one has star trailing, so it's not really possible to tell. On my 'phone, I see the second frame having the blue halo. Keep the cc to sensor spacing as close to 75mm as possible. I think at 600mm and judging by your photos, you will need to increase it. With the gso on a 150mm f5, we were closer to 80mm before the corner stars tightened. The issue with the gso cc is that it increases the effective focal length of the telescope. Not really what you want with a nice fast f4. If you have a choice, go for the WYSIWYG GPU. Cheers and HTH.

Hi No. Unless you switch an older DSLR, don't take them at all for any length of exposure.

Hi 600d? Lose the dark frames.

Worked well. IMHO, much better:)

Yes:

Hi Nice shots:) Using a cls filter will remove much of the visible spectrum so as you can see, it is impossible to obtain natural colour, especially in stars. Your best bet is to take a few frames without the filter and layer that over your cls stacked result. The non-filtered frames need not be long. 15s-20s is normally fine. The best app I've found for that and just about every other aspect of processing astro-images is StarTools as @happy-kat has already recommended. So a +1 from me. The best app I've found for stacking and calibration is Siril which also has an excellent photometric colour module. This will may help you along the way with the colour if you are using solely cls frames. Cheers

Hi everyone and thanks for looking. Cropped to remove distractions. st 1.7.459

Hi Stu Nice image. IMO, galaxies invariably appear better without filters. Guessing that maybe in this case, the filter wasn't sitting flat on the cc. Perhaps lose the filter and take shorter exposures? Cheers

Internet search?

Hi Here is the Dovetail. Here is the wide clamp which can be attached to your mount via your short dovetail. The rectangular profile aluminium: from your local window frame guy. We used 60x20mm box section with 2mm walls. Here is a search on OAG. There isn't/we've never needed a locking device. Are you able to identify the anti slip arrangement? HTH

8" f5 on an eq5 showing rigid tube dovetail arrangement, top bar and anti-slip devices on the underside of the bottom plate. We found that for astrophotography, anything less requires an OAG. HTH

Hi Dovetails. If you're simply looking through it, it doesn't matter which you use. If you're attaching a camera, to eliminate tube flex, a long wide dovetail, along with a rigid profile to tie the top of the rings is preferred. To guard against slippage, fix the north end of the dovetail to the ring using a protruding hex head screw. Place a black shower cap over the main mirror end of the tube to prevent light leak and dust. HTH

That's easy then. Use the 70d @ ISO1600:) Cheers

Hi With their lightweight body, cheap availability and sensible back focus, I'm surprised the 1 series hasn't a wider following in astro circles, especially among owners of entry level Newtonian reflectors who quite often give up when confronted with the impossibility of bringing a reflex DSLR to focus. We only have hands on with a j1, but I'm sure this applies to all 1 series models. Remove the lens, fit the adaptor, attach to the telescope as you would an eyepiece, set the camera to M and that's it. Depending on the focus posición of the C5, you may need a t2 extension tube to reach focus. Moon? Start maybe around 1/500s at ISO100. We used this adaptor. For non photographic Newtonians, you need this one. I'd put good money on the images being sharper without the eyepiece;) Cheers

Check there are no bright spots on the panel; take a shot of it from close range using a kit lens as per the camera's own exposure calculation. With your eos set at Av, place several sheets of paper between the light panel and the telescope aperture until the exposure reads at least 2s. Return the camera to M and use EKOS to capture say, 20 frames at that same shutter speed To avoid confusion with your light frames, set the capture type to Flat in the same tab. That way, the folder names will be self explanatory. Lose any dark frames, dither between light frames and stack using a clip algorithm having processed the light and flat frames with bias. I'd recommend Siril to do this. HTH

Hi The flipped up mirror will cast a shadow on all mirror eos' at anything wider than f6-ish. Flat frames cancel it though. If you wish, post -a link to- your linear data. Cheers

Lovely shot. There are certainly many non stellar light sources. Well done. Please note that you cannot use StarTools to advantage with anything other than linear data. By pre-processing, you removed a lot of its power. Starting from a linear stack, you'll probably find e.g. StarTools' Wipe module does a far better job on gradients than app, and with the unique advantage of retaining your data in a linear form throughout. Cheers

Absolutely amazing. Love it:)

No. For astrophotography, I'd recommend removing just the hot mirror, leaving the ir filter in place. Follow one of the many guides available.

General Siril StarTools DarkTable A wise choice with Siril. You've given yourself a stable base upon which to work:) HTH

The hot mirror: the filter which reflects most of the Ha signal and thus prevents it from reaching the sensor.

Hi Unless you want full spectrum, easier perhaps to remove only the hot mirror, leaving the ir filter in place. Cheers and HTH

Hi Newtonian.