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alacant

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Everything posted by alacant

  1. alacant
    Hi Not sure. Seems it's a hover on this app. Don't know how accurate it is: So apparently, yes. We're at 38º N. But we loath charts and graphs and so usually begin imaging in the east when it looks dark enough. Many of the frames for this shot would have been taken before official darkness. I'm sure m5 would be doable from your location. Cheers
  2. alacant
    If you go threaded, you then need to introduce a rotator; more to tilt, add to the weight and go wrong. We'd recommend getting a genuine prescription GPU (such as the one you own already) and using three 120° thumb screws on the original SW focuser collar to secure it. But please note that, and having tried endless combinations of ccs with numerous 130s in various states of health, that's only what works for us. Over here, where it just HAS to work, pragmatism is the only means of survival! Cheers
  3. alacant
    The earlier European ones, yes. Proper GPUs come with a graph showing the relation between focal length and backfocus and have a chart showing recommended positions for various focal lengths. Beware modem mass produced copies. This for example is a proper GPU which will give corner to corner over APS-c. This, although it may still work up to a point, isn't but still way better than the 2 element correctors. Cheers
  4. alacant
    Hi everyone Only just seen this one. How about the Hercules galaxy cluster? Hot in Alicante last night, but no excuses as we're still on our no-denoise campaign. So here we are, noise and all. This is centred around ngc6054 at around 460 million light years. Apart from the stars, nothing much closer than that I don't think. Thanks for looking and have really enjoyed looking through the entries. Wonderful shots. 700d + gso203, f5. ~4h @ ISO800 siril 1.1.0. startools 1.8.527-2
  5. alacant
    So do ours. The OP's however, doesn't. We'd really like to get to the bottom of why they sometimes work, sometimes not. Having said that and although I'm sure that the OP doesn't fall into this category, we always start INDI beginners on either a laptop, or a mini with a screen and keyboard attached. Very few grasp the idea of client-server, especially experts more familiar with other popular platforms. The migration to headless seems far less traumatic that way around;) Cheers
  6. alacant
    I'm glad you've sorted out the hardware. You really do need to be able to take the server-side for granted. We host using refurbished stuff such as this. Go back to the rpi when you're familiar with the workings. Try different clients, although the EKOS scheduler is hard to beat these days. The client end doesn't need to be anything special. Run kstars/EKOS on the server and connect over vnc. Your 'phone would be fine. Just remember though that if you're out and about, always connect over Internet through ssh. Proper GPUs can be had on AliExpress and various other outlets, including a few of the original sw aplanatic. The type you need is like this. Good luck and HTH. EDIT: Both your telescopes will need modifying to bring them to imaging standard. This includes but is not limited to: 6 strong primary mirror springs (3 active and 3 passive over the locking screws, leaving the latter loose), primary mirror floating on neutral silicone sealant, tube rings spread further on a Losmandy dovetail plate and tied along the top with a rigid aluminium box section, lightweight secondary support -for the gso- are the minimum we've found that will retain collimation at all angles.
  7. alacant
    Hi Can you simplify this? Hanging a heavy monochrome setup on unmodified low-end-of-the-market telescopes and focusers is, well... Borrow a DSLR or osc and bring the rest of the hardware up to standard first perhaps? A few bits to try with what you have ATM could include: -Give yourself a chance: go with a powerful Ubuntu LTS gaming box. -Get a proper GPU cc. These leave the focus position unaltered and come with a graph and chart giving the correct spacing wrt focal length. -Get the latest indi/ekos/kstars from the repositories. We'd also recommend building the latest versions from git. Try that too. Cheers
  8. alacant
    Hi everyone Despite the heat, steady enough for 1000mm focal length last night. Thanks for looking and do please post any dslr tips you may have for this one. 700d + gso203 apilado: siril 1.1.0 git, revelado: startools 1.8.527-2
  9. alacant
    The bevel of the mirror prevents artefacts. The thickness of the plastic baffle and its irregularities are likely to cause more than the bevel alone. Cheers
  10. alacant
    Remove the clips and fix the mirror to the cell using neutral silicone sealant to coincide with the SkyWatcher cork pads. Leave the mirror to settle under gravity on a perfectly horizontal surface for 24 hours before refitting. HTH
  11. alacant
    Pity. I think you'd probably get better compromised focus using the 600's focusing screen in real time.
  12. alacant
    Not sure if you can see colour using that, otherwise it's also going to leave you with red halos:(
  13. alacant
    This is because the Takumar prescription focuses the blue and green to the same point, leaving the red out of focus. For this reason you cannot use a focusing mask. The method for focusing is described here. Nice shots. HTH
  14. alacant
    If you're UK based, I'd recommend this guy. The various alternatives are explained therein. All you need is to simply remove the hot mirror (one of the ir filters you mention). Cheers and HTH
  15. alacant
    30 minutes. Amazing. Well done. I had a go using your png. Try deconvolution on the linear file and you should be in business. You've loadsa detail:
  16. alacant
    Like many measurable quantities in this game, we don't find it at all useful. Can we see the milky way? Sometimes not. Usually because there's haze, the moon is up, or it's March. Does haze and the moon play a part in the scale? I don't know. Cheers
  17. alacant
    Unbelievable though it may seem, we have visitors who do BOTH. Just imagine that: pointless squared🙃.
  18. alacant
    Hi everyone Still in our forbidden-to-denoise phase, so needed more frames to make this presentable. With the OAGs doing duty elsewhere, we were restricted to 5 minute frames using a less than ideal 60mm guide telescope clamped to the top rail. No excuses though. It's too hot for that. Any other dslr takes on this, do share your tricks and tips. Thanks for looking. 700d + gso203 40x5min @ ISO800 calibración y apilado: siril 1.1.0 revelado: startools 1.8.527-2
  19. alacant
    No. Learn it manually simply means do this. After working through that, you'll not only understand why you're calibrating and stacking but could be left wondering why you'd need anything automated in the first place. You'll also be in a much better position to troubleshoot what went wrong and what you missed out on doing when it did. You need only look at the posts concerning processing e.g. flat frames on this very forum to realise the frustration and time wasted not knowing! Cheers and good luck.
  20. alacant
    Hi If you like modern clean screen apps, you'll get on well with it. If you're expecting old school menus-along-the-top-windows-everywhere style, less so. To begin, we'd recommend learning it manually; put yourself in charge. Cheers and good luck.
  21. alacant
    Hi Well done. It looks like you've solved it. Question: We use heq5 and eq6. Now you've got yours running by process of elimination, would you recommend this method? Any preference of order in which to substitute? Normally for each mount we receive/visitor brings along/WHY, new or old, it's pulled apart, cleaned, lubricated and necessary or not, bearings replaced. Thinking: just the worm shaft bearings may be all that is needed. We genuinely don't know which is best; full substitution or the a-bit-at-a-time method. The latter could save us a load of time. Cheers
  22. alacant
    We use Siril. HTH
  23. alacant
    Hi AFAIK, both the OP's lenses have the A -> M lever, hence the no-flange recommendation. Cheers
  24. alacant
    That's a flanged version which causes issues with the auto pin on the lens body and loses you that precious mm or so of infinity back focus. Best to use a properly machined non-flanged fully threaded version, forget about the pin and so gain valuable infinity focus manoeuvrability. Mark the position of the focus barrel -e.g. masking tape- relative to the lens body before you begin;) Cheers
  25. alacant
    Hi Mmm. Our only experience with a sct was an old orange tube c8 and even with excellent seeing, we couldn't get anywhere near this quality; for this type telescope at such a focal length, it's pretty good. If you want to go further and assuming the collimation checks are OK, there is -very slight- drift. Mount backlash maybe? Seeing not good enough? Guiding aggression? And almost certainly the main culprit, tilt: It could simply be a case of dismantling the camera end and re-threading, tightening with the corrector pointing at the ground and wiggling the parts as you go. Another trick is loosening the reducer lens retaining ring and shaking on a horizontal surface whilst re-tightening until the rattle just disappears. Is the mirror locking ok? Does the collimation hold as you alter the tube angle? Worth a try? Cheers and good luck.
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