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rodrigol

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  1. Thanks for the comment, Paul. 😊
  2. This is my first image of 2024. The weather has been awful during the last 3 months and other reasons have contributed to not being able to roll the roof off the observatory. However, last night the wind gave up a bit and I decided to risk it. I went straight for the centre of the dusty Horsehead region (to NGC 2023) using NINA and my 'old' Altair SW80 doublet and ASI071MC Pro mounted on my CGEM-DX, which still delivers good tracking. I took 30 x 300s of data. Data was processed with PI + RC Astro AI tools.
  3. OK. Problem solved. It turns out there are 3 screws holding the focusing ring, which can go loose. You cannot tight them too much or the ring will not turn but rather lock the focuser in place. I have never heard of this issue before with the COAG, but there you go. This OAG is very good but not perfect. Cheers!
  4. Thanks for your replies. I will go the obsy and bring in the whole optical train to check your suggestion and answer. R.
  5. I'm afraid I may have done to damage to my COAG helical focuser. While refocusing my guide camera, I turned the focuser all the way out and it got stuck. I don't want to try to force it as I do feel mechanical resistance and don't want to break it completely. I would appreciate some advice. Kind regards, R.
  6. Hi, Garden truck or motorcycle cover? I used mine for a number of years until I got to build my obsys. These covers worked really well for me. Here is the link to the discussion
  7. Many thanks for the advice above. I had the lucky luxury to have clear skies on a Saturday/Sunday night and decided to image the Eagle nebula after having reseated the entire imaging train when the telescope is in a inverted vertical position. The Celestron OAG (which is a great piece of kit but one has to be careful all parts are seated properly flush to one another before tightening all the thumb screws) was probably one of the mayor contributors to the tilt observed above. Another posible source of tilt is the Celestron heater ring. I reduced the voltage going to it to ~1/3 (don't know exactly how much) of what it was. Siril is an amazing piece of software! Thanks for the tip!!! Below is an early processed Eagle nebula with the result of SIril's 'tilt' command. There is some way to go but the tilt has been vastly improved! Stars are rounder on all corners and I feel the telescope and current imaging train are performing much better. The only possible moving part in the imaging train is the tilt corrector on the ASI091MC Pro, which I'm going to examine as soon as I understand which corner of the image corresponds to each screw. I'm very grateful to everyone for their comments and kind help!
  8. Fantastic - Siril, eh?! Going for it now. Many thanks! Lot's to read and learn now 🙂
  9. Wow! Thank you so much for all the advice above. It all makes perfect sense to me. Please, can I ask how did you measure the tilt onthe image? To me it seems there is a lot of tilt. I hope the main cause is in the imaging train and your advice regarding re-threading eveything carefully helps. I really like how people help each other here! Best wishes and thanks again! R:)
  10. Thanks for the kudos(!) I really want to get the most out of the scope and mount. I feel I have learned a lot about processing but what is the poiunt if the kit is not performing 🤗
  11. Here is the image above after processing with calibration frames (darks and flats).
  12. Here is the image after processing with calibration frames (darks and flats). Thanks!
  13. Hi, I recently installed a C11 dew heater ring in front of the corrector plate. I did this with the telescope in the vertical position and don't think I've overtightened anything. The issue I see now is that stars look egg-shaped, more on one side than the others. The image attached (not processed nicely but only to show the issue I'm facing) shows this (please zoom in to the corners). What can be causing this? Is this tracking, flex (I use COAG), collimation, corrector plate alignment? Thanks for watching. R.
  14. Nothing in the form of calibration frames- I will do flats and darks next. Spacing between the FR and the sensor is 147+/- 1mm. Collimation is good in the centre. I don't know how to diagnose this. Thanks for replying!
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