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Everything posted by alacant

  1. Hi Amazing detail for just an hour:) I'm with @powerlord; there's more to be had. But a few points: You've lost a lot of the galaxy. don't forget to allow for the fainter stuff. 200p so you're going to need a larger secondary to cover the 5d frame. A swap with someone with the 58mm secondary from a pds works well. Up to aps-c, they don't need the larger mirror. There's loadsa curvature and in so correcting, some of the frame is lost. A cc would help you take true advantage of full frame. There's banding in the red. It might be a good idea to correct that in Siril before registration. With light pollution your gonna need quite a bit more than an hour. Don't forget to dither between frames Cheers and HTH
  2. Hi It looks OK, but beyond that, it's difficult to say whether it's optimum for imaging e.g. we don't know the orientation of the image; where is the focuser? Another good ruthless test (which many fear!) is to take a guided shot of a star field. ATM, anywhere in Cygnus is good for this. Cheers
  3. Hi Greatly improved. There's loadsa detail. A touch of diagonal noise which could easily be eliminated by dither between frames. Cheers
  4. Ah, ok. Sorry. I used StarTools. No levels. No curves. No graphs... A good tagline would be 'Bringing astro-processing into the 2020s'! Cheers
  5. Ah, ok. Now I understand... It looks dark because you haven't processed it.
  6. Hi I found detail, colour and more galaxy. Even in 59 minutes, there's a lot there already, hence my recommendation of shooting another session. Modern astro apps give you the possibility of quickly visualising what's there. In so doing they save you time and help you decide whether it's worth continuing. Cheers and looking forward to seeing the final version.
  7. Hi Yeah. There's loads more to be had. The best m31 of the season so far i'd say. Here's my 5 minute demonstration. Add another 59 minutes and you'd have a winner on your hands:)
  8. Thanks for the confirmation. kstars didn't list it, so I assumed the name had been dropped. Google had the 399 number, but still no luck back on the map. Cheers
  9. Hi everyone A visitor wanted us to setup his 130, but having travelled as checked-in baggage with Jet2, we feared the worst. However, a 30s tweak of the primary adjusters was all that was needed. Moral of the story: reflectors travel well. Here are ngc884 and ngc869 in Perseo with an astro modified eos700d taken using said. eos700d, ~2h, iso800
  10. Hi everyone This is a good one if you're short on time. Except having done an hour, you realise that the background is full of interesting dark bits. We found this by accident; all the bg stars seemed red and orange. Anyway, not really enough exposure for the darker stuff, but ok for the fg stars. Must remember to order some more patience from Amazon. Thanks for looking and do post your dslr efforts if you've had a go. 700d @ ISO800 ~2h
  11. Hi I think the imaging version of the C8 is called 'Edge'. If you've good enough atmospheric conditions, it maybe worth a look. The longest we go is 1200mm. With DSLRs, but only on the occasions when the atmosphere supports us.
  12. 1/4" 20 UNC Or just drill off the thread and use m6. HTH
  13. Lovely shot. I found quite a few more stars in your .TIF, helped in no small part by StarTools' latest Deconvolution module. Not sure if it's in good enough focus though. Oh, and I'm hopeless at colour unless someone is telling me over shoulder style. Cheers and thanks for posting.
  14. Yes, absolutely. Much better. For Andromeda, it's unfortunate you can't fit older Zeiss or Takamar lenses to a Nikon. Maybe you could look around for a Nikon fit 135 or 200 though.
  15. Hi The stack is 12032 x 8033 and over 500Mb. How did you arrive at that? You lost a lot of the galaxy. Maybe guide the camera to avoid overlap and try longer exposures with the galaxy centred in the frame? Cheers and HTH
  16. With conventional processing you can't, no. With StarTools, you most certainly can:)
  17. Sorry. I read 'GPU cc'. DUH! So, it's the opposite. You need 75mm between the cc and the sensor and you'll need to wind the focuser OUTWARD to reach focus. You'll need a 20mm extension tube Here is the GSO cc with the required extension tube and the typical focus position. With the gso cc, you'd be better off with the 130p; sensible focus position, better contrast and it's cheaper. Cheers
  18. Hi Maybe have a think about this... Say, instead that you wanted to shift your eq6, at the same margin. How do you think that would go? Cheers
  19. Hi Try also outward focus. The focus position of the 130pds is the same with and without the GPU cc, so the first question has to be, can you achieve focus through the d5000 without the cc? To answer this, simply remove the cc and screw in a m48 thread 2" extension tube to the t ring instead of the cc. If you can't then maybe you have the 130p rather than the 130pds. Please post a photo of the camera attached to the focuser and measure the length of the tube. Cheers
  20. Hi No theory, just hands on... We don't use apt but have found that using a focusing mask (FM) doesn't give you best focus when using a camera lens or -particularly the cheaper doublet- refractors. E.g. on our old Takumar and Tair lenses, the green and blue agree and focus well, leaving the red out of focus. A FM will therefore give a red halo around stars. Our 72ed is different in that it has the red and green in sync, giving blue halos. Conclusion, the FM will give you the strongest two out of three colours. The trick is to compromise. Use the FM mask to get close, then using a mid brightness white star, look -use your eyes- at the halo around the star. Focus manually until whatever halo you have disappears. It's a tiny amount. Reflectors fare better and the FM gives perfect focus; mirrors are perfect apochromats. Worth a try? Cheers and HTH
  21. Much better:) You've still gone very heavy handed on the choice of ROIs though. Go easy on the contrast. That is almost certainly where your unevenness originates. For second (an subsequent) AutoDevs, it's important to try different ROIs. Try the core only, one of the arms, a group of bright stars, a group dim stars including or not the galaxy... The possibilities are endless. Don't worry if you don't get it right first time. The beauty of st is that your data is always linear. Do your processing in any order. In the end, at last we've a viable alternative to the ancient levels and curves approach where your data was manipulated as a series of non linear files produced as a result of isolated unrelated procedures. Of course, if you're happier with the latter and it produces better images for you, stick with it. Cheers EDIT: even if you've overdone it, there are a couple of 'rescue' things you can do: But it's just as easy to wind back to an earler stage in the processing and redo it from there. your data remains linear.
  22. Hi If you are correctly balanced, that should not happen. Remember that there are two corrections needed to balance DEC, compared to just one for RA. How are you balancing each axis? Cheers
  23. Hi Point your telescope south at around Declination 0º. Try these settings:
  24. Make a mark on the lens of the original orientation before you adjust. But hey, they're around €50. Is it worth the hassle? If you want one for daytime use ¡cómprate otro!
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