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About Domain105

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    Birmingham UK
  1. Thanks for everyone's input. I'm still deciding but I'm leaning more towards the ASI294-MC. I'm guessing it will be a fairly decent jump up even with the light pollution as you say.
  2. I actually had considered the lenhance / lextreme but maybe wrongly thought that for some targets like galaxies and clusters like M45 they would cut out too much light making my imaging sessions even longer. I know I can't have it all with this much light pollution so yes thanks for your reply, I'll start looking into that option too.
  3. Thanks for that. I hadn't considered full frame and from you say 6D sounds good.
  4. Hello all, I've been using a Canon 450D (modded) for a while now and thinking of an upgrade. To be honest, I'm reasonably happy with my 450D but would like better sharper images and am thinking maybe the 450D is limiting me. My setup is as follows: Skywatcher 150PDS Coma Corrector (0.85x) HEQ5 with Rowan belt mod Skywatcher 9x50 guide scope with QHY5 camera for use with PHD I'm in south Birmingham so am Bortle 8 with heavy light pollution. Towards the north its probably Bortle 9. Astronomik CLS clip filer and a Canon 450D modded Best FWHM
  5. Hi, I've recently purchased my first 3d printer (Creality Ender 3 v2) and it is really good and was easy to set up. Only thing to really keep an eye on is the bed levelling for which I got some 'Orange Springs'. These seem to be more stiffer than the stock ones so once you level the bed, it stays level. To design, I use the free TinkerCAD web app and Cura to slice and generate the .gcode file which the printer uses to print. So far, I have printed a number of Bahtinov masks for my Canon EOS 450D lenses (50mm F1.8 and a Tamron 17-55 F2) and a few other scope bits and bobs for my DIY focus
  6. Hi all, I've finally managed to get my hands on a Star Adventurer Pro to allow me something less bulky than my SW 150PDS / EQ5 to take quick shots of the sky. The nights are so short now so I thought I'd try a very crude imaging attempt primarily to see how precise I needed to be with Polar Alignment. To be honest I was very surprised at what I achieved. I have a fair idea which way north is from my house so I set the SA to roughly 51N and then pointed the SA to where I thought North was from inside my office. I just sat it on my window sill - no tripod or anything! Without the SA I was
  7. Hi, I managed to get a right angled eye piece from ebay for around £10. It was not designed for a polar scope but had a square end of a camera view finder so I just glued a piece of a plastic pipe on the end so it fits over the polar scope eyepiece and it works a treat. I just though the cost of an actual polar scope right angle view finder was very expensive especially as the same thing with a square connector was only around £10. I'm on a tight budget so make do with what I can. Also the view finder has a x2 slider options so makes life that bit easier. Hope this helps. Regards
  8. Hello, I also had this issue a few years ago. epoxy resin did the trick for a while but it was always a bit delicate. I finally reached out to FLO and asked if they had the lever available. FLO as always were more than happy to help. I can't remember what it cost but it was pretty much, just pay for the postage and you can have it for free I think. Give FLO a shout and see if they can help. Good luck! Regards
  9. +1 about the field of view. I had the camera horizontal and missed out on the running man Lessons learned for next time!
  10. Hi Peter, You're absolutely right now I look at it. It is too on the blue side. I'll reduce the blue as per your suggestion. Thanks for the pointer. Didn't notice at first but now I do. Regards
  11. Hi, I've just seen your image too and its impressive especially with out guiding. Once you get your guiding sorted out, you will be unstoppable! My unguided attempts were diabolical so I didn't even post them here and by the looks of it you are getting good results now and image how much better you will get when guiding. Its a slippery slope this AP lark. I only started off just seeing what I could image using a camera on a flimsy tripod and its been non stop ever since. Make sure you post pics once you have sorted out your guiding
  12. Hi all, I thought I'd give M42 a try last night as it's something I've never imaged properly before. It was a clear night but the Birmingham light pollution was pretty awful and the moon was so close and bright. To make matters worse, I only had a short while between it appearing from behind the trees and disappearing behind my house so I managed only 3 x 300 seconds shots and 3 x 50 second shots. Equipment used Skywatcher 150PDS Coma Corrector Astronomik EOS Clip filer Canon 450D Modified 9 x 50 Skywatcher guide scope QHY5 as my guide cam EQ
  13. That is a fantastic effort. You've managed to get the dust lanes very nicely and the faint outer regions too!
  14. Hi all, I've managed to modify the arduino code so the focuser compensates for motor backlash when changing direction. For me, there was a 7 step backlash in both directions so I modified the code in the following way... 1. On each T command to move to a new target position, the code checks to see what the direction of travel is. 2. If there is a change in direction, it adds the backlash ASCOM steps to the movement 3. Finally is stores the current direction in a variable (not the EEPROM) so next time the T command is issued it knows what the last direction of travel was.
  15. Hi, Thanks for the pointer. I'm glad you suggest the arduino code rather than the ASCOM driver as I feel more confident with Arduino code. I'll give it a try and see how it works out! Thanks again for the prompt reply Regards
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