iapa

Here's a stack of 76 x 30s Lum images. From C8 XLT, 6.3FR and ASI1600MM-cool - I know that there is some flexure in my spacers as I've not tightened them up fully.

as far as I have reenable to determine - starting for zero knowledge this am - it is most likely to be in the imaging train just because mechanics are not as accurate as a light beam. If everything was manufactured to sub nanometre tolerances, probability if tilt would be reduced. As it is, one suggestion I have seen is to rotate the camera 180deg.

BTW - this is my first foray into CCDI, so, blind leading the sighted here I think.

I would suggest that there is an amount of tilt, how much is too much I couldn't say. You can select multiple images to get an over all measure for your stack

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Try here: https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/600764-analyzing-field-flatness-tilt-etc-with-ccd-inspector/

How about BackyardEOS or BackYardNikon from https://www.otelescope.com You can set exposure, number of images, has real time view so can help with focus if you start with just a lens instead of going straight to an OTA. As others point out - what are you wanting to image at night?

TBH my eyesight is not up to seeing your coma, I just see some slight stretch in top right could it be camera tilt?

still not happy with the added facility allowing rodents to sharpen their teeth. All those exposed wires

page now just show as not available with no details

decent income, but, family first hence, always skint - particularly since grandson arrived on the scene - SWMBO runs up at least £200pm on toys. Over 5 years........ that's my 10Micron but, especially, these days - keeping him occupied so his mum can work is prime focus

I haven't decided on whether I need to change my camera yet. imaging camera is currently siting at an image scale* of 0.78"/s (over sampling somewhat*) with the guide camera at 3.02"/s. Guiding scale is 3.86 (there was an article in SGL suggesting this should be <4 that I noted, but not the specific article) from the above a guiding scale is derived giving me 3.11 dithering in PHD2 based on my image camera moving 12 pixels. This being, I think, the number of pixels the guide camera needs to move. With my not so wonderful CGEM-DX, my line of thinking was to increase guide camera pixel movement to some the mount would more readily hand. So, there's two things on the go dealing with under sampling - by binning at camera or processing software increasing guide camera movement - by binning at camera or replacing guide camera/OTA * image scale seems to be agreed to be between 1 & 3. * that's just around 1/3 of estimated "seeing" around 2.5 in Bortle 5 skies, but binning is also increasing required exposure times ,

Good point. Although, I'm forgetting the reasons I asked in the first place which was a. improve guiding, with a 1x1 imaging, my PDH2 dither scale is 3.11, 2x2 binning gives 6.23. My understanding is that it would be easier with a cheap mount like my CGEM-DX to get t to move 6 pixels rather than 3 b. increase imaging pixel scale (which impacts a.)

Thanks folks, binning didn't occur to me duh. I'll try playing with 1X1 binning at camera, with 2x2 being done at processing Then compare 2x2 at camera and no binning are processing

As with anything, law of diminishing returns. For example, long exposure images have less noise than short, but, you need to balance taking a 3600s exposure, with probability of having the throw it away because an aircraft flew through, versus 600 x 60 exposures and stack them.More noise in any image, bur as your stack them noise reduces. Same with mounts, some will allow you to take these 60 images without guiding as their gearing is so accurate - at a cost. Or, a, less expensive, mount with less precision, but that can still take your 60s images albeit with guiding. As long as the cost for guiding is less than the difference between the cost of the two mounts - it's a cost saving for more or less the same result. The bass principle I have seen expressed over past few years is determine your budget, and ad 10%. Then get the best performing mount with in that budget, but allow for at least a 10% increase in payload - you will go for better OTA eventually, so, build that capacity in from the start. HTH

You finally really did it. You maniacs! You blew it up!

as you are not that far up the road from me, I am happy to up-lift for disposal FOC Only because of favour you did me with the Quattro 4 CF

I have several OTAs 200P-DS , Quattro F4, adì C8 XLT (with ff/fr) these are in the 1000-1200 m focal length range. I am looking for a camera that will give me an imagine ratio around 2 My existing cameras all work out to be over sampling Any recommendations from people with a similar setup? thanks Cameras ASI294MC-cool ASI1600mm-cool

I use Nebulosity which you can use to align and stack the images then crop, if that's helps?

Welcome for SGL That's actually the same mount/OTA that SWMBO forced to me to buy I got about 6 years ago. You get good results from them - as you have shown with your first image. I also added tube rings on mine. Another thing I would do was to hang a plastic grocery bag loaded with full bottles of water from the lens tray to increase mount stability - based on advice from our 'proper' clever daughter and also the constructions of several large building with pendula build in.

I'm not sure I like al that cabling exposed to the environment. Rodent fodder

Welcome back I feel the pain of relearning, I've not done much for about 3 years, and dusted putting things back together - amazing how much I have forgotten (everything)

Hi Karen, Welcome to the forum, and the endless chain of costly equipment that makes this worthwhile - well, my bank manager thinks so with the interest he's charging me. A wee while back the was a post which pulled to gather to start tutorials, which may help. covers a lot of the angles. A tripod, DSLR and a lens. An intervalometer - if there's not one build into the camera. Sorted.

Re GPS module, I just use whichever mobile device I happen to have to hand. These days they all have location data somewhere, e.g. the compass app in iOS. Google maps etc. etc. etc.

From a practical point of vie, if your a viewing it shouldn't make too much difference, Although as astronomical darkness is the period that the sun is 18deg below the Western horizon until it reaches 18degrees below Eastern horizon, during this time is is not illuminating the sky. Outside those times there is (if you will pardon the language ) "pollution" from the sun. For imagers, narrowband filters should help offset that to some extent, but it's still additional noise we don't need I suppose it's how much you want to process it out.