cuivenion

Is there any mounts out there that run on a 5v USB input for power?Mostly interested in EQ Goto mounts. Any payload is ok, just curious about what's out there.

Thanks for the feedback everyone. I did add saturation to try make the nebula more distinct but I may have pushed it to far. I do like colourful images which probably doesn't help.

Cheers Alan, I'll definitely be having another look at it.

This is the Heart and Soul Nebula in Cassiopeia, a hydrogen region containing several small open clusters. It's the first image taken after getting my Canon 600d modded at Cheap Astrophotography (thanks Juan). Here's the capture info: HEQ5 mount 200mm f4 Takumer M42 (stopped to about 5.6) Canon EOS 600D (Baader Modded) Altair GPCAM and 135mm lens as Guider 43 x 300s exposures 50 Flats 50 Flat Darks 50 bias Dithered no darks I'd say it's a very challenging object to process as you need to stretch agressively to bring out the nebula and of course the stars take over the image at that point. I've done a few versions of this and its the one i'm happiest with. I'll definitely be revisiting this with a reprocess though. Comments and criticisms welcome as ever.

Telephone line are some such thing?

Keep up the good work.

Lol no probs.

This is what I do, but a some DSLR user's still swear by darks. I think it depends on your camera and processing software. Darks are temperature dependant and it's hard to produce a uniform high number of them with a DSLR. All in all what Alacant said above is the easier way to go.

Like you said, it massively cuts into imaging time. Dark's also introduce less noise into the image when they're stacked and the noise reduction is effectively one dark being applied to one frame.

Second that. I would add that dithering is also good practice, especially with DSLR's. https://astrobackyard.com/dithering-astrophotography/

Ah, just spotted that, maybe this one then. https://www.amazon.co.uk/FLOUREON-Portable-Generator-220V-240V-Emergency/dp/B0822FB7T8/ref=sr_1_160?keywords=portable%2Bgenerator&qid=1577547718&sr=8-160&th=1

If I could run all the devices and get about 6 hours I'd be happy.

Thanks for the replies. I'd have to use the the 12v dc output and power the laptop and mount from it together because I don't think the ac and dc outputs can be powered at the same time. I'm presuming using 220v ac output for the mount and laptop would be very inefficient.

Hi, My maths is dreadful and I'm hoping to get some help. I'm thinking about getting this to power my rig: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Portable-Generator-GIARIDE-Inverter-Emergency/dp/B081CGK6VK/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp?crid=3M9MDYRHN3W2J&keywords=portable+power+station&pd_rd_i=B081CGK6VK&pd_rd_r=4e037fdd-bb2a-455e-8667-1d3ed5b87dbe&pd_rd_w=zgSxo&pd_rd_wg=aFtjQ&pf_rd_p=7dc56c0d-8a5f-4d97-9143-7233b106859a&pf_rd_r=GSGPDFGQGG92X0FREGK6&qid=1577548918&refinements=p_89%3AALLPOWERS&rnid=1632651031&sprefix=portable+power%2Caps%2C185 It says it has 40800mah at 3.7v, what would this be at 12v? This would be giving me a ballpark figure. I'm running: Heq5 Mount 12v Laptop (12v to 20v converter) EOS 600d ( 5v to 7.4v power supply) Dew band (12v 600ma max) Any advice would be great thanks.

Thanks for the Ascom control, I've been watching out for that.

I'll second that, excellent report. This setup seems to be tailor made for public outreach.

I think you should be fine with this, it's actually a wider FOV than a typical guide camera and guidescope (in one axis). You will have to get the mount in the right area to begin with, I tend to just get Polaris near the center of the FOV in the polar scope before I use Sharpcap polar alignment. Just too double check your scope is 400mm focal length?

I'd also recommend the 600D. You may want to look into getting it modded if you want to image Hydrogen alpha nebulas. There are plenty of broadband targets out there for an unmodded DSLR though.

Wow, I thought I had it bad with security lights and all. Kudos on the dedication. Nice images.

Managed to get some good data for the Heart and Soul Nebula and the filter is definitely helping with this, so I'm pretty happy with the outcome. There's definitely vignetting but nothing flats can't handle. Here's a heavily stretched flat:

Beats spending a couple of hundred quid on a new filter.

Thats the professional way of doing it, nice one. I'm not sure what the clear aperture is on a clip in filter, but the Baader has 27mm.

I'm going to try this tonight with my Canon 600d: Thats the ZWO T2 to 1.25" adapter with a baader 1.25" moon and sky glow filter. It fits very snugly into the circular clip in area with no movement in any direction and you have to give it a good pull to remove it. The blue tack is just there as a precaution. The baader filters have a wider useable area than some other filter manufacturers so I'm hoping they'll be little to no vignetting. I'll let you know how it goes. 😬

Just make sure that EQMOD, and any software connected to it (plate solver, planetarium, imaging software etc) use the same epoch and you'll be fine. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epoch_(astronomy) You may find that some software uses whatever eqmod is using, or that there isn't an option for it. Thats fine, if you have the option just make sure you choose the same epoch. Epoch is a reference point in time used so that measurements that change over time can be calculated correctly. Thats my understanding anyway. So its a good idea for your software to all use the same reference point.

Thanks Olly, I'll check it out. Thats an amazing M42 by the way.