Juicy6

The 5i5RYH NUC which I have used runs from 12V. See specs here: https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/83255/intel-nuc-kit-nuc5i5ryh.html . But last time I checked I could not find any 12V in todays Intel NUC range.

I have the 7 m cable too. It will reach the exact same speed as the 15 m variant, so maybe the line amplifiers are limiting speed to 60+ MB/s. 70 MB/s or 400 MB/s would not improve anything. With my cables it feels fully transparent, no delays, no lags.

This was only for testing and stressing the USB cable. When I copied big iso-s up and down, I could not observe any delays or disturbance in my astro programs. 294 sent pictures to APT and 120 sent images to PHD2 without problems. Normally I store image files on computer SSD.

Poorly RFI shielded PWM heater controllers emit noise. IMHO controllers are also superfluous. I leave my dew heater on full power all the time. It draws only 0.6 ampere for 7 watts. Its resistive load will give absolutely no noise.

I have a powered USB3 hub on the scope. I also have a 15 m powered USB3 extension cable from scope hub to computer. I reach full speed with this setup. Images from my ASI294 are 14 MB and are downloaded in less than half a second. If I connect a SSD disk or memory card to my scope hub I can read or write to this disk with 60 MB/s without disturbing normal image download and scope control from computer to scope. I use this cable: http://tiny.cc/b65okz Christer, Sweden

Install Connectify onto your telescope computer and make it a wifi hotspot or wired Access point. In Settings, select "No internet". Let your notebook only connect to Connectify. Your notebook will connect to scope computer if this is up, else you will have no connection. Blocking port 80 will stop HTTP traffice but maybe updates or intrusion attempts can take place through other ports... https://support.connectify.me/article/83-ethernet-to-ethernet Christer, Sweden

Maybe something like this to reduce play in threads: Christer, Sweden

Hey TS in Germany also offer custome made adapters: https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p9287_TS-Optics-custom-made-Adapter.html Christer, Sweden

Thank you for many wise words. The reason for my questions was that my UV/IR cut filter was too thick for the filter drawer. As I had the filter cell adapter in my junk box, I came up with this idea. I will instead try to find a thinner UV/IR filter, which will fit in the drawer. Christer, Sweden

Hey What do experts think about my setup? I always have an IR/UV cut filter mounted first in image train, just after focusing draw tube and before flattener. Then I have a filter drawer near camera where I can switch between, clear focusing, CLS and Optolong L-enhance Duo filters. Two questions: Am I asking for trouble with internal reflection? Is it good practise to always have IR/UV cut filter mounted? I only use scope for imaging. This is my setup: Christer, Sweden

The manual for the power box says the 4 outlets can together deliver 10 A. I can see no reference to your statement about 2 A per socket. My 294 has never drawn more than 1,6 A. Christer, Sweden

I too was interested in this. Software for Polemaster, IPolar and SharpCap need to see Pole Star if I am not mistaken. But for a good plate solver I guess any part of the sky would suffice for PA. If software solves images from east and west view, a non-viewable NCP would be easy to calculate. Christer, Sweden

I have a pdf from v 1.3 and it is describing it the way you do (ver should be 2.04): Christer, Sweden

These calculations are approved by Teleskop-Service, Germany:

Manual says: "Inside the box the 8 mm spacer ring is assembled with the field flattener body. When assembled, the two parts may look as if there were only one piece". So this is not correct?

Are you saying the distance in the Manual still is not correct? Or are you measuring 55 mm from sensor to the 8 mm spacer (M66 to M48) and not to the flattener itself? This is the PDF Manual from SW site:

I asked Andy Ellis at Astronomiser for one some time ago and he reponded: "I've stopped making battery adapters myself due to a parts supply issue and I'm not sure who else makes them or what other options may be available." Christer, Sweden

Beautiful with Stephen´s Quintet and even the tidal tail from NGC7319!

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/catalogsearch/result/?q=258000216-0

Most mounts handle 11 to 14 volts. So 12 or 13,8 v doesnt matter. The supply must be able to "send" the current needed. So the amperage must be higher than the 2-3 ampere the mount draws from the supply. If you later on want to add heaters or cooled cameras, you need more amps. So why not buy a supply giving you 6 or 10 amps. 12 or 13,8 volts.

https://www.kjell.com/se/produkter/el-verktyg/stromforsorjning/labbaggregat/switchat-nataggregat-13-8-v-6-a-p44810

Yes. Den adaptern tycks ge 6 A ut så den bör räcka.

I am not afraid of modding things. I tried this and it is just a matter of turning the saddle where you want it. Very simple as you said. Nice work there on your own saddle setup, very nice! Agree with you about iOptron tech support AND their retailers. Christer, Sweden

Me neither. After receiving this short strange reply i wrote the iOptron support back and suggested them to include this mod in the FAQ or Scope Manual: "Thank you very much for reply. But I think I will wait with this until I have instructions with images to follow. I do not know if anything can go wrong. I think this should be described in the manual for your mounts. Here in Sweden there are many people using side-by-side setups for their gear. The support at your German retailer Teleskop Service told me this mod is to be avoided. Also a few forum posters say this is not possible. Maybe presumtive buyers will choose another mount if it is not clearly stated that a side-by-side setup is possible." This was 4 days ago. No reaction yet. Christer, Sweden

Just received answer from iOptron Tech Support: "You have to remove the stopper and be careful not to over turning it. Yes, you need to remove and rotating the saddle 90 degree in order to make Zero Position Sensor works." Christer, Sweden