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About jimjam11

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    Star Forming

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  1. Nina is excellent and very fast which is important with a cmos camera. An easy way of verifying your polar alignment is just to run the phd guiding assistant for a couple of minutes, it will give you an accurate value without you having to do anything! Ideally do this pointing south towards the celestial equator...
  2. Or use sharpcap which is a doddle for polar alignment using your guidescope. No point bothering with a polarscope nowadays if you are imaging with any kind of computer because there are so many cheap, fast and better solutions. You can make this even faster by marking the location of your tripod legs after alignment so you can start from the same place every time.
  3. Apologies. I am talking about sampling and what sampling rates are manageable on a star tracker. In general the star adventurer is fine with sampling of >4"/px at 30s subs without guiding or other faffing. With guiding you might be able to reach 2"/px but then weight becomes a problem. Basically stick < 200mm of focal length with a star tracker and your camera unless you like hard work and guiding!
  4. Well spotted. The ZS73 is great but bright stars (especially those as bright as M45) bloat very quickly in my experience. This is especially noticeable when switching between my ZS73 and 200p. I would guess this is sperical aberation:
  5. 600d gets you 2.06"/px. Have you considered something like the EF200 F2.8 or Samyang 135 F2? These are super light in comparison and give a much better image scale for a portable tracker. EF200 gets you 4.4"/px and the Samyang gets you 6.5"/px both of which are much easier to handle on a star tracker.
  6. 4 panel mosaic of NGC7822 1 hr RGB, 1hr Ha per panel RGB - 20x60s Gain 76 Ha - 12x300s Gain 200
  7. Far too heavy, and depending on your camera it will yield approx 1.8"-2.3"/px (@3.8u pixels) which is beyond its tracking accuracy.
  8. AF makes a huge difference and most parfocal filters are not parfocal enough, so once you get your offsets worked out things become much easier and you will get sharper images. Nina is in the process (V1.11) of introducing a killer feature for people like us with temperamental sky. You can configure your sequence (e.g. 5xR,5xG,5xB) and then iterate through this group for as long as you have/desire (e.g. 10Hr). It means you can get a colour image within minutes, and progressively go deeper and deeper without paying the time penalty of full filter interleaving (1xR,1xG,1xB) which takes an a
  9. Looking forward to m33! Any reason why you have relatively little lum compared to rgb? I normally go 1:1 with lum = combined rgb not each channel being equal.
  10. Both are in stock @FLO and they are both very well made; I would not buy a non-WO flattener for this OTA given their availability. I have both the Flat73A and Flat73R. When I got my ZS73 there was no reducer option available but I got the reducer version once it was released. With the Flat73A I configured it to the WO backspacing (11.4mm IIRC) and never touched it again. It gave perfect stars from corner-corner. The Flat73R gave me the run-around and when I first used it my stars were terrible. WO do not publish spacing guidance for dedicated cameras and I had to find my optimum by trial-
  11. The ASI Air Pro is an amazing device and it is rapidly evolving. However, having used it for a few months it does have some limitations which have led me to use it slightly differently. Pros: I have a Polemaster and Sharcap, but for polar alignment the ASIAir is in a different league. You click go and it takes an image which is plate-solved. You click go again and it moves the mount, plate-solves and then tells you what correction to make. Polar alignment takes me <2mins with my average time approx 70s. I can PA with the Polemaster in approx 3mins, but if I need to do the rotatio
  12. I like the idea of NGC7023 as well. If you have amassed another 240hr of integration with more in progress is there a chance you could start releasing 2+ datasets per month to keep up?
  13. I saw this when I went searching but couldn't find it anywhere to download. I am guessing they pulled it to try and get people to upgrade to the new 'improved' model...
  14. I dont have a huge amount of experience guiding/dithering with my SA, but if I take a sequence of subs with my SA and dont guide/dither I always get terrible walking noise. When guiding/dithering I have never noticed it but I always specify a large dither. Using something like the SA it is impossible to get perfect polar alignment, so there will always be drift in dec: If I randomly dither this in RA only I get: At this point there is no correlation because of the drift, size of dither and the number of subs? To make this work I think the dither amount needs to be
  15. Loving the free (and high quality data). I initially processed this a couple of times in typical HOO and SHO: I then blended these two images in PixelMath to produce a composite: Where I thought this became interesting was animating the three blends together; it helps to highlight different structures. The SHO version clearly shows better structure separation?
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