rockinrome

Sounds like a good idea. Thanks again.

Ahhh right .... gotcha ..... I will upload when I get home then. Thank you.

Thanks Steve, now then, you could be onto something here...... I did check a sample of the images, BUT there was some high cloud around at certain times all night which I thought I had avoided as it drifted..... may be that is the culprit ...... MJ

I tried both - so saving with changes (which brought out the Pelican slightly) and no changes to try and sort in PhotoShop. MJ

Hello David I do not have the DSS file (at work), but do have a sub and flat - in attached zip file. Thank you MJ1.zip

OK, so this is going to be a post where I do not expect an answer but rather - have you tried this, and I go, no I haven't and it works perfectly .... so no pressure you lot!!! Here we go ....... I have been getting reasonable images lately using my unmodded Canon 600D with SkyTech CLS clip-in. I have the Rowan modded HEQ5PRO which I ASCOM guide through an Orion off-axis guider (that is another story ....!!!!) - This works great. The other night I took 2 hours of data [4min subs at ISO800] of the Pelican Nebula (IC5070), with darks, bias and flats (all as usual). I stick it through Deep Sky Stacker and no matter what I do I cannot get a decent pre-processed image to put (say) into PhotoShop. I do struggle with this part but usually manage to get something decent (normally with much less data too!) One thing to note would be .... whilst taking the images I just had a peak at what was coming off the camera and you can definately see the Nebula in 1 frame quite easily. I will thank you in advance and have a great weekend. Clear skies. MJ

Could it be an internal reflection? Long shot I know, but do you cover the camera eyepiece with the rubber *thingy* that should be on the camera strap....? All the best. MJ

Is this a slight imperfection/crack in the glass that the eye cannot see ...??

Your brain is a wonderful piece of kit ...... something has just occured to me that *may* solve my issues and this is ...... The measurement to the optical plane of the guiding sensor has to be taken from the centre of the OAG prism NOT simply the centre of the OAG unit - which should give me more to play with in the measurements. However this distance must still match the camera focal distance - here the 49mm. Thanks to all who looked. MJ

Hi Mick and welcome! Baby steps are good ....... I think you have probably answered your own question in that I would always look at the mount first. Without a solid (tracking) mount you are always gunna have rubbish results. The kind-of starter mount for astrophotography is the SkyWatcher HEQ5 (PRO) or similar, as it has everything to get you startered, inc. polar alignment scope. Saying that I had a Celestron CG-4 mount (same head as EQ3-2) and modded it with the SkyWatcher SynScan upgrade (plus polar finder extra cost) and it worked a treat for years. All this was done though before I got wind of the HEQ5 and really should have waited to get this.... From here you can mount a whole range of scopes and should last you years if not a lifetime. Check out AstroBackyard and a little clip with Nik Szymanek on YouTube. All the best MJ

Hi I use the SkyTech CLS clip-in and now swear by it. You definately benefit from "darker" dark regions and colours do seem to be more vibrant. As always more data is going to render a better image, but I do think this is more true when using filters. Clear skies MJ

Hello If using SkyTech make sure you have the "CCD" type of filter for modded camera's. I use the CLS (non CCD) in my unmodded camera and works a treat. Kind regards MJ

Thing is ....... what one person likes about how an image has been rendered is not necessarily what someone else likes. I guess you could stick to (say) using the Hubble Palette..? MJ

Thanks Ben, much appreciated. Just nice to have a starting point with an example of what can be achieved. I have recently taken the Western Veil and M13 and whilst the images show the objects in question I cannot get satisfactory images post-stacking ..... all was well last year on NGC7000 too !!!!! PAH! Just seem to be scratching my head, staying up to all hours for nothing ...... the joys of this hobby! ...... Kind regards MJ

Agreed Alacant. MJ

Hi Contrary to popular opinion, from a beginner standpoint and quite a lot of seasoned imagers - "On mount" using ST4 cable from guide camera to mount is fine - ASCOM (direct to mount [via handset]) is just another way and *could* make things easier. PHD2 works with either. MJ

Heh all. Don't know how many of you have missed this (like me) for a few years, but the link below to the DSS help guide and how the stacking process works was a huge help - diagrams at the bottom. (I have been using SIRIL recently and whilst it is really easy to use, you can get lost sometimes in what process does what - these diagrams helped.) http://deepskystacker.free.fr/english/theory.htm#Calibration As always, clear skies. MJ

Soz. As they say - a picture speaks a thousand words, and this sure does - great photo. If you don't mind - what was the amount of data and what tools used for processing?? Thanks and all the best! MJ

Also agree with Richocet here. I would also add that (in my opinion) Barlow's are over-rated, especially for beginners. I fell into the trap as I started off of thinking I could see hubble-like images when my magnification increased by 2/3 fold. All I got was a fainter, blurrier image that dampened my spirits. I would much rather go for a range of good quality eyepieces when budget allows that can be used over a range of scopes over the life-time (or near future!) of this hobby. When I say "range" though I only mean (say) 3 .... All the best. MJ

Oh and as for camera connection ---- to start simply get t-adapter (for 1.25in eyepiece) and t-ring for camera (screws into adapter).

Hello I had the exact same head and upgraded it with the SkyWatcher EQ3-2 upgrade kit: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/sky-watcher-mount-accessories/synscan-pro-goto-version-3-upgrade-kit-for-eq3-2.html Upgrade was easy and mount worked flawlessly. NB Make sure handset and motor firmware are at latest versions - all available from SkyWatcher website. Clear skies. MJ

Hold on here ..... surely you only need a T-adapter (shoves into eyepiece holder on scope) and T-ring for camera (screws onto t-adapter). (I know you don't have the flat field - but this is not essential when starting off - small steps and all that .....) Be about £40 if that ..... All the best ..

I can't really advise on what equipmeny to buy, but this seems a sensible choice. DO NOT save on the mount, this will be your most important piece of kit - the SkyWatcher HEQ5 PRO (or equivalent) is considered the starting point for astrophotography. All the best. Check out these resources: https://astrobackyard.com/buying-your-first-telescope/

You could also check https://www.astroboot.co.uk/AstroBoot for one ......

Hi Ben This will be no effort for the HEQ5 PRO which should come with 2 counter weights - 2 x 5kg. Payload capacity: 11kg for imaging, 15kg for visual. All the best.