GavStar

I was using my az gti last night and it worked fine. I don’t bother with the north alignment bit. I just make sure it’s level and then use the 2 bright stars alignment process. It brought all the targets from all sections of the sky straight in close to the centre of the fov of the scope. However I did have a wide 1.5 degrees tfov so that also helped. One silly mistake I have done once with the scope was to mount the scope the wrong way on the mount (ie with the scope on the right rather than the left side and as stand behind it). That really messed the tracking and finding up ?. I know I’m not the only one that’s done that as well!

There’s also the 95mm Baader travel companion which one SGL member has got and is very impressed with it. More portable than the Tak but even more expensive...

I put my heated dew strap on the thin part of the FC100 tube just before the dew shield. This also seems to work fine - I’ve never had the objective dew over.

What has surprised me is that even though they are the same weight (about 12kgs) I find my C11 much more awkward to mount than the 160.

And I spotted that typo as I was writing and thought I’d corrected it!! ?

I use a 160mm refractor as a portable scope. It can be set up and taken down in around 10mins. Not as grab and go as the 100mm frac but still pretty good.

Interesting kerrylewis so you prefer the Tak clamp to the parallax tube rings?

I’ve decided that my tv60 is as small as I want to go. I find it’s not the scope that causes space issues but rather the mount. However I’ve now got a short tripod similar to your Gitzo which has definitely helped in this regard.

I can see that a 12.5mm eyepiece makes finding the alignment stars tricky. I bought a 26mm 70 degree crosshair eyepiece for this reason and it’s makes the alignment procedure easy and accurate in my experience.

Whenever I’m using skyfi, I always align it via the mount handset first and the connect to skyfi to control sky safari. This is also the case with the az gti hence the need to get the handset to do the initial alignment and enable the mount to be controlled via skyfi. But I see there is an align button in SkySafari so I might have a go using this next time.

Thinking about it, yes I think you do need the handset since you need to be able to plug the computer lead from the skyfi module into the Az gti and the only way you can do this is via the handset. It’s been a while since I last used the az gti at night.

Kerry, I use the skyfi WiFi adapter on my az gti. I align the mount using synscan. Then once aligned turn on skyfi and using the correct scope settings connect the scope to skyfi. I then use SkySafari to control the mount and just ignore the synscan app. I think SkySafari has much better functionality.

I’ve sent several astro things to Europe including a 30mm Pentax XW and they all arrived fine. As Stu says pack it assuming it’s going to be dropped. I even sent a 160mm apo refractor (not my Tec160) back to Italy. Now that was a bit scary but I arranged the courier over the internet and it arrived within a day in perfect condition! ?

That is some tripod and pier to set the az gti on ? Imo the worst thing about the az gti is the small single bolt to hold the dovetail bar - a safety screw is definitely needed!

I’ve just found out that there is an internal counterweight installed towards the focuser end of the scope to keep the balance point broadly central. So yes it looks like this is a fully finished scope - I guess he didn’t drop it since his boss posted the picture on facebook ?

I think there is a definite possibility it is only the tube and doesn’t have the lens cell in it - I think it would be very front heavy normally so don’t think he could carry it that way ?

Now this is a refractor I won’t be buying but it would be nice to have a look through...?

Stu, I find fluorite triplets work pretty well for observing as well ?

Here is a table produced by TEC comparing the design specifications of fpl53 vs fpl55 vs fluorite options(shaded blue) for a TEC140.

Very interesting. I found some calculations that suggest a binoviewed 150mm scope is equivalent to 105mm binoculars so quite a brightness loss and this seems consistent with Rainmakers experience. My 160mm binoviewed would be equivalent to 115mm binoculars. I have an opportunity to test out a set of apm 120mm binoculars so will try to set this up side by side with my 160 binoviewed to see if the brightness is basically the same. i know when I compared the 82 kowa prominar highlanders against my fc100df binoviewed i much preferred the Fc100df on low power widefield views - the stars were much sharper imo.

7 mins - final checks, maybe just maybe....?

Yes and I can see a countdown clock - 20 mins to go!

The DF has the same focuser as the DL. The DC has a smaller focuser.

That’s correct John, the fc100s are all fixed dew shields. The TSA-120 has a sliding dew shield

Great report. It reminds me that I need to get dust off my Baader Mark v binoviewers and try them on my tec160. My uk dealer is now stocking the Matsumoto EMS and suggested (I hope jokingly) that I buy another 160 to do as rainmaker has done ?