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Everything posted by CraigT82

  1. Nice shot. Was hoping to get an image of this last night too but clouds had other plans despite clear forecast... c'est la vie! Is that the Meade 127mm triplet? How do you find it? They pop up used every now and then and I'm often tempted, seem to be decent value for money.
  2. Noting wrong with composites of different exposures. It's done in DSO imaging all the time. Would be impossible to get any kind of decent image of M42 without it.
  3. You can use PIPP to edit a long video into shorter ones. https://sites.google.com/site/astropipp/
  4. Thanks, I've still got the Fullerscope, it's fitted out for white light solar at the minute but I haven't got round to using it much yet. Yes it's the coma correcting barlow. Shouldn't really be necessary for planetary if the target can be kept bang on-axis. It should theoretically help with lunar though, when using the full sensor size at native FL, and you're capturing data outside the diffraction limited field.
  5. Very nice work Peter, fingers crossed for tonight's transits but not looking good here at the mo
  6. Nice shot, doesn't sound like you did anything wrong in sharpcap, you can use the RoI feature to cut out the planet on the sensor and increase the frame rate. A 2.5x powermate would do well too.
  7. Nice work Simon, that Saturn is sharp as a tack!
  8. I think these scopes do need a bit of modding to get them working properly. The primary mirror cell in mine wasn't working as it should so you might want to take a look at yours. The floating triangles were locked solid and the edge support studs were well off the mirror's CoG line. Pics and stuff here... https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/376811-adventures-with-an-old-sw-300p/?do=findComment&comment=4081862
  9. Thanks. I think that's actually more of an an error that I've made that's crept in when I was processing the rings and globe seperately, I need to reprocess and repost when I have the time.
  10. Before you start capturing you want to set your exposure to correctly expose the very brightest parts of the moon without any white clipping, preferably with a good bit of headroom too. Don't worry about the dimmer parts, they can be brightened up later in the processing flow. As with planetary imaging you want short exposures to freeze the seeing, so 5ms of thereabouts. You wan't to set the gain to allow you to achieve this short exposure time so if it has to be high gain then that's fine, but the moon is so strong a signal you may find you can get those short exposures with low gain. You want to be able to capture as many frames as possible during the still moments so yes you want as many frames per second as you can get, not sure what that is with the full sensor size of your camera? The moon doesn't rotate relative to us so you can capture for as long as you want really. Well until the shadow lengths start to change anyway.
  11. I use the skywatcher pillar for my rig. It is kept in the garage and I roll it out to the front garden or rear patio depending on where my intended target is. In the front garden I have three steel spikes in the ground and the pier feet sit on them. Worked really well when set up and polar aligned (using sharpcap pro which took about 5 mins each time). I could regularly do 20 min exposures with no vibrations at 0.93"pp, when the seeing allowed. I did modify it slightly though. I cut down the pier by about a foot, as I only use newts this was sensible for me. I also added larger castors to make it roll easier with almost 100kg riding on it. Also the bolts that hold the pier adaptor to the pier are rubbish and needed changing right off the bat. If the forecast is good for a week or so I'll leave it in place and throw a motorbike cover over it and put it all back in the garage when the weather turns.
  12. Thanks for the kind words all. Yes seeing was very variable for this session. At times it was so mushy I thought the focuser had slipped. Forecast is looking good for Sunday with potentially high pressure over the UK so fingers crossed for having another go then.
  13. Very nice shots Mike, always fun to go over old stuff again and see what you can get out of it now. With these three images I think it comes down to how you view the image. I know some will view the images at 100% and zoom no further, in which case these images are pin sharp and faultless really. If you go further in and really zoom down to 200-300% they do start to look a bit too crisp maybe... But that's nit picking really. So I guess it comes to how you wish your image to be viewed: at 100% or even further in. Personally I usually try to process so that the image looks right when viewed really close in, which may leave it looking a little soft at 100%.
  14. Seeing last night was average overall, with some good moments but not many. I did do a nice long session and capture a total 25x 2minute videos on Saturn from 10.19pm to 11.11pm (BST). I junked 8 captures and kept 17, so a total of 34 minutes has gone into this. Stacked best 10%. Firecapture>AS3>Astrosurface>Winjupos>Gimp. Skywatcher blue tube 300p with QHY462c, APM 2.7x barlow and ZWO ADC. FC reports FL of 4300mm (F/14 ish) and resolution of 0.14"PP. Capture details were: Exp - 4ms, Gain - 60%, FPS - 251.
  15. Nice shots indeed. Best tutorial I've come across is buy the author. Lengthy but shows you exactly what everything does...
  16. Hi, I just noticed this line in your first post, did you do any wavelet sharpening in siril? I've never used it so not sure if it can do that. Wavelet sharpening is a key part of processing planetary images... actually the most important part after stacking I'd say. I'm not aware of any Mac apps that can do wavelet sharpening, Perhaps there are some but I only know of Registax and Astrosurface which are both Windows only (or Linux under wine for registax). For what it's worth I bought a used Lenovo Thinkpad off gumtree for £100. It has a 250Gb SSD and two USB3 ports. I do all my astro imaging with it, capture and processing, been going strong for about 4 years now.
  17. Yes you're right, I think the specified 146.05mm is where the edge HD lens correction of the field flatness is optimal and so it's not overly important for on-axis planetary imaging. However I could be wrong but I think there is also a back focus distance where the spherical correction of the corrector plate is optimal, and you'd think they would design that to be at the same point. Deviating from that may introduce spherical aberration which effects the whole field?
  18. I bought a single length of spring off ebay. 15mm OD and 2mm wire Thickness (130N/mm). Was the cheapest way to do it but you will need to cut the spring into the required lengths and then finish the ends which is easily done if you have a blowtorch. https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/376811-adventures-with-an-old-sw-300p/?do=findComment&comment=4081880
  19. Lack of time mostly, but also lack of interest as visual DSO observing doesn't really float my boat, especially living in a city. Maybe if I lived under dark skies. You should really do something with that mirror it's criminal for it to be sat in a box!
  20. If the weather is bad enough for airborne saltwater to be a concern... it is certainly too bad to be using a telescope!
  21. If you click the 'more settings' button that is highlighted in your screenshot, what is in there? There should be a usb traffic setting you can play with.
  22. Nice one glad it works... the motor focusers are great bits of kit, and really make life easier.
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