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Everything posted by CraigT82

  1. Nice work! Have you done any sharpening at all? The wavelets in registax work wonders
  2. Skyvision in France offer a convertible Cassegrain (f/16)/Newtonian (f/4). Range starts at 10" and goes up to 20". https://skyvision.fr/boutique/produits-skyvision/cassegrain-‐-mt/
  3. For what it's worth, Firecapture's UI is customisable so you can set it to show whatever you want...
  4. No that's wrong, you can set it to collect AVI or SER uncompressed files for planetary imaging
  5. And the manufacturing specs given to LP by those placing the orders
  6. I love it and don't use anything else for planetary and lunar capture. I do use sharpcap pro for other things though.
  7. The Altair scopes are also made by Long Perng. So they, the Founder Optics and the StellaMira scopes are likely all made in the same factory.
  8. Very nice results, would be well pleased with those. Nice to see old scopes doing their stuff still
  9. Have you cropped the dodgy edges from the stacked image? Edit: I.e.stacking artifacts as per newbie alert
  10. That's a good question. I've got that figure by using a method for calculating optimum sampling which is based on having 2 pixels sampling the minimum spatial cut off frequency (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spatial_cutoff_frequency). I recently made a spreadsheet which gives the F ratios required for a given pixel size and wavelength of light, based on this method (attached). BTW this method of calculation is something that I've learned from @vlaiv. As you can see from the link it assumes perfect optics and perfect seeing, so even these focal ratios may be a bit overkill for our slightly imperfect scopes and really imperfect atmosphere! Others will advocate for longer focal ratios and that's absolutely fine, there are a few ways and methods for calculating the ideal sampling for any give scope or camera and everyone is free to decide on which way they think is best. Planetary Imaging Sampling Calculator (2).xlsx
  11. I find the triangle centre spots useful (can get them from FLO - along with a centering template). If you orientate the mirror so that each corner of the triangle points to a collimation bolt, the primary collimation with a cheshire becomes really quick and easy. Especially if you have a little note on the tube that reads "tightening bolt pushes dot away" or something like that, the dot being the reflection of the Cheshire's peephole. Then just by looking through the Cheshire you can immediately judge which bolt to turn and which way to turn it.
  12. This isn't quite right. Loosening the centre screw moves the secondary towards the primary and the three adjusters will then need tighetning. Tightening the centre screw moves the secondary away from the primary and the three adjusters will need loosening. However the OP will certainly need to loosen the three adjusters a tad before the centre screws can be adjusted. Put a clean (new) microfiber cloth around the mirror and grab hold of it to prevent too much turning force bending the vanes out of shape.
  13. Great Post Never seen pixels under a microscope before, they don't look like I expected
  14. Excellent Peter, the top one is sharp as a tackle and you can just about see the latest outbreak to the lower right of the GRS in the 23.45 image.
  15. Nope... amazing images can be produced with any sized pixels, as long as they are appropriate to the focal ratio used!
  16. It is this one... https://www.modernastronomy.com/shop/cameras/lunar-planetary/qhy-lunar-planetary/qhy5iii462c-planetary-and-nir-imaging-camera/ I use the qhy version because the shape of it allows a bit more inwards focus travel which is useful when used with newtonians. The body of the camera can be slid down right into the focuser to get the sensor further in to reach focus. With an SCT though you won't have any inwards focus issues as you've got loads of focus travel.
  17. Wow! Well worth a good look at full res. So much detail, and an almost 3D effect. Absolutely stunning
  18. That's great, so much going on at the limb.
  19. Im guessing the the scope and mount may have been drop shipped direct from the importer so may arrive seperately. @FLO should be able to help you.
  20. All are superb cameras to be honest. Ranking them by minimum read noise (i.e. max gain) you've got: 1. 462c = 0.5 e-rms 2. 224c = 0.85 e-rms 3. 178c = 1.38 e-rms None of them have excessive read noise and so all three are suitable, but for me personally the lower the read noise the better. What it means practically is that it takes fewer frames stacked to get those nice smooth images. The 178 does have the larger sensor so that's a plus for that. It also has the smallest pixels but you would be slightly oversampling at the native FL of the C8. The 224 has the largest pixels and you'd need a 1.3x barlow to get to the sweet spot. The 462c sits in the middle of the pixel sizes and you'd be spot on for sampling with the native FL of the C8... No barlow needed so that eliminates a piece of glass and some weight from the optcal train. Also finding things and tracking will be easier without a barlow. So I guess my vote goes for the 462c.... I have one (QHY version) and I think it's superb. Oh the other thing is that the 462 has excellent transparency on all pixels past ~800nm, so when using an IR pass filter the camera behaves like a mono camera.
  21. I'd advise to ditch registax and use Autostakkert for the stacking. It is leagues ahead (Registax hasn't been updated for years) but Regi does still have some useful features, namely the RGB align function, the RGB balance function and of course the wavelets sharpening. Autostakkert will autodetect the bayer pattern and debayer the capture correctly hopefully, but if it is still pink then you should still be able to adjust the RGB balance using registax, or even in CS2. With my camera and using firecapture I can set the 'white balance' before capturing... basically you can tweak the RGB gain independently so that you get a nice natural looking colour planet on the preview screen before capturing. I'm not sure if this is possible with your camera in sharpcap but worth checking? As for the blurriness, seeing is your main culprit, but also poor focus and collimation can reduce the sharpness of the image, as well as thermal issues within the scope, though it is less likely to be thermals with a small scope like the 130pds. I think the 5x barlow is too much but the 3x should be just right. It is unrealistic to expect great results which fulfill the potential of the equipment on the very first go, keep practicing and you'll get the results you want. It is usually just a case of getting out as often as possible in order to catch that one night of great seeing where everything comes together. I would say to aim to collect a lot more frames and stack a smaller percentage of them. I'd probably aim for 10k frames and then stack best 10% maybe, depends on how good the seeing is, when it is good you can stack more frames.
  22. We haven't got long to wait. Next year it'll be up at 38 degrees and in 2023 it will be at 52 degrees!
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