CraigT82

Nice work Magnus. The ‘stick It to the template then push it down onto the mirror’ technique is the same as the Catseye template that FLO used to stock but don’t seem to anymore. Works really well for getting it dead centre.

I’m not sure why they are turning the sight tube to align the cross hairs with the spider vanes in that video. There isn’t any need for it. The cross hair in the sight tube is just to give you a centre reference as you look through the peephole: Doesn’t matter which way the crosshairs run. To primary collimate large newts in the dark a laser is by far the best option I’ve found. Something that allows you to see the collimating effect from the rear of the scope whilst you turn the screws. I use a Howie Glatter tublug with a cheap laser in it, works a treat but the tublug isn’t cheap. It employs a barlow element in the end so it doesn’t matter if you laser is slightly miscollimated itself.

Replacement mirror set for my old blue tube 300p. Bit extravagant but what the hell 😈

Yeah I’d say a tracking dob is best option if you’re having to include scope and mount in your budget. Hard to beat - budget wise - for planetary imaging too if that’s the route you’ll go down. One of the best planetary imagers going right now uses a 16” Skywatcher synscan dob. Check how amazing the tracking is….

Presumably the pier is going in the middle of your 1000kg block of concrete, so I wouldn’t worry too much about splitting it with the expansion bolts. If you don’t have an SDS drill I’d heartily recommend the Titan one from screwfix, it’s a beast and makes drilling good holes in concrete a piece of cake. Can be used for all sorts too with the chisel/point bits and the rotostop function

That lovely, tons of detail on jup when zoomed in. Very nice!

For me, a pristine Starfield 102 in oklop bag for £350 on here. Also my old Fullerscope 8.75” f/7.5 on its mk3 mount (can’t remember what I paid but it wasn’t much)… best visual scope I’ve ever looked through that one.

For the Mars occultation image it will be two separate stacked images, one for lunar surface and one for Mars, then combined in post.

Well…. Have been a bit out of touch with the hobby recently so decided the best way to remedy that was to spend some money on Astro kit 😈. To that end I’ve just placed an order for a John Nichol mirror set to replace the scratched old skywatcher originals. Going to be a bit of a triggers broom this scope.

Fabulous images, really nice processing!

I’ve barely touched a scope in months… two little ankle biters plus ongoing house renovation means I haven’t got much spare time! Will get back on it soon though as the planets rise earlier

That’s a real beauty of a capture… nice of the seeing to play ball when the GRS is smack bang in the middle!

Yes it’s in the image stabilisation section, when you click on surface (as opposed to planet). The options are expand or crop, try using the expand option rather than crop?

I’m jealous! Didn’t get out with my 102 unfortunately. Did you get any chance to compare the Tak and the 102 under good seeing?

Thanks Rusted, yes it’s going to need a lot more effort and persistence so I’m going to have to be patient. I did capture some videos without the barlow and although they seemed sharper initially, when scaled to match the barlowed image there was noticeable less detail than with the barlow. Not too sure about skeletonising the 300p… although it might make it a bit lighter

Thanks Tristan, yes I was afraid you’d say it was just down to waiting for the still moments, as that requires time which is what I have least of! Though if I can get close to the results that you produce though it’d be worth it for sure

Thanks Neil, might try making a stop down ring to see if that helps at all. Though I reckon it’s just a case of catching a moment of good seeing and the results will come, though I’m always impatient about getting results when I’m trying something new!

Thanks Pete, it’s just radiator backing from screwfix… https://www.screwfix.com/p/radiator-reflector-foil-470mm-x-4m-1-88m-/88629?store=&kpid=88629&ds_rl=1249404&gclid=CjwKCAjwkeqkBhAnEiwA5U-uMymfB-IeUCyX48Cj3FNZa_gcfCJK-OSCCcyV5eVs7yVA1CDm9vTUvxoCwR0QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds i think I’ll have the same issues as you at my location, better conditions in the morning: probably due to the tarmac, roofs and concrete all around the estate warming up as the sun rises.

Inspired by @AbsolutelyN and his 250mm Quattro it it's white light role, I have this week made up a DIY white light filter for my 300p using Baader ND5.0 film and had it out in the sun yesterday and today. Yesterday's results were terrible but today's are a little better, though I think this big scope is going to need some decent seeing to work. This morning at just before 7.30am I captured 5k frames and stacked 10%. Used my Altair 290m and Baader Solar continuum filter, with Baader 2.25x barlow. I tried again at around lunchtime but the image was absolute mush. Processing was AS3!>IMPPG>Gimp

Another one from yesterday. Same equipment as above but without the Barlow.

Here is a close in shot of AR13333 taken this morning with a new to me Lunt Herschel wedge and Baader solar continuum filter in the back of my Starfield 102 frac (with Baader 2.25x barlow). Altair 290m camera. Stacked 10% of 5k frames, sharpened in Astrosurface and finished in Gimp.

Excellent, you will love it I'm sure

Used a Baader 2.25x Q barlow to get closer into sunspot group Ar13333. Dont think the seeing supported this FL to be honest, but good to play.

Haven't had a scope outside in months, mainly because I'm usually in bed before it's dark, so decided to do something about it and bought a Lunt Herschel wedge, Baader Solar Continuum filter and also ordered an Antlia 3nm calcium line filter from FLO. Managed to put all to use this morning on the Starfield 102ED and this is the first pic I've processed. I also played around with a barlow and the calcium filter so will put up more as I get them finished. Haven't really done any solar imaging before so not sure how its done properly. This was stacked best 10% of 5000 captured frames in AS3 (native focal length), then some levels and wavelets in Astrosurface, then colour in Gimp. Thanks for looking. Edit: added the calcium image, bit softer than the 540nm but a little more contrast on the Faculae. Burnt it out in the middle... oops!

The thick and sticky Synta OE grease serves a dual purpose: to help hide slack manufacturing tolerances and to stay in place for a long long time (I opened up a 20yr old EQ6 and found the original grease all still in place and working as it should). I replaced it with Baader #1 machine grease which is also very thick and sticky (good for budget mounts Baader say) but with better lubricanting properties and better temp range. Good for between -15 and +55 centigrade according to them…. Should be ok for solar usage. Failing that might eb worth to try and shade the mount whilst using for solar, might help prevent the want getting too warm and running off?