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Everything posted by Merlin66

  1. The QHY5 is a very good guide camera. It has the ST-4 port for direct communication with the guide port of your mount. Some say, because its a CMOS chip that it's not an sensitive as a CCD ( Atik 16ic for instance). For the money I think it's pretty cost effective. A DSI I or II are also very good, and an be found at reasonable prices second hand. I dumped the modded webcam... to much fiddle with the parallel control on the new laptops.
  2. Fitting the MJU to a telescope is a little difficult. Buying a cheap webcam ( where the lens can be removed) would be a better way to go. A webcam ( SPC900) and a 1.25" adaptor would allow you to image the moon and planets... always a good starting point.
  3. Merlin66

    Hello all

    Welcome on board!! You'll find we have the answer for everything ( 42, right?!) You're doing better than I; my first telescope was a 2" spectacle lens in a cardboard tube with a 1/2" magnifying glass as an eyepiece!! Some fantastic "first views"; Alcor and Mizar come to mind. Sometimes I wish I had just stayed with it!!! Would have saved me $$$$$$ as I built bigger and bigger telescopes!!
  4. I've got the Atik 16ic, DMK21 and various webcams. The DMK appears to be a better performer due to the faster frame rates than webcam ( same resolution but mono).
  5. My first thoughts are that collimation/ alignment are more "sensitive" at f 6.3 than at f10, but then I though what about alignment of the reducer... Try re-collimating with the reducer and see what the results are at f10???!!
  6. I'd get her to buy a good eyepiece and use CdC to control the scope!! I have The Sky V6 and end up still using CdC!!!!
  7. Jeff, Checking Doc G's notes on MAPUG, he gives 59mm as the " calculated distance for a reduction of 0.33".
  8. I use my X0.63 reducer with the #1209 micro focuser by using the Orion 2" to SCT prime focus adaptor. ( BTW this also allows me to use all the SCT flip mirrors etc etc on the ED80 etc) Jeff, The distance for the X0.33 is variable, the manual shows a 30mm spacer and a Pictor camera gives X0.33, and with the 1 1/4" spacer unit it give X0.3.
  9. Helen, Should be specified in the camera's manual. I have the old MX7c and the manual ( p12) gives 22mm as the "CCD to adaptor flange distance"
  10. It's from both the instruction manual issued for the Meade 0.63 reducer and various write-ups on the MAPUG support site. I can scan the instruction sheet for you. Drop me a PM.
  11. No calculation require, only some measurements. The distance is defined in the design of the reducer lenses and spacings to give " optimum" performance. The x63 reducer ideally should be positioned 110mm infront of the CCD chip. Depending on the type of scope you have, you made some adaptors to hold the reducer and spacer adaptors between the camera and the reducer. T2 spacers come in various lengths from 6mm to 40mm.
  12. If you do have a guide socket on the mount, I think the QHY5 camera can directly interface with it to guide, just needs a J11(?) cable.
  13. Yes! Is the honest answer. Plossl's etc are certainly good enough.
  14. Tj, You still haven't mentioned which OAG body you are using??
  15. Welcome to the telescope team! The Barlow lenses is an extra and can be added infront of the eyepiece to increase the magnification. The X2 means it will double the magnification when used. Try it while observing the moon; you'll see the difference!
  16. Which off-axis guider are you using? Celestron? Meade? Lumicon? Just interested, as I regularly use the Meade or the Lumicon on the 12" LX200 to guide my spectroscopes.........
  17. Definately an interesting poject, even for a non-stronomer!! Looking at the video, I'd say the reflected "hot spot" is far to large for the planet being illustrated. Depending on the angular size of the illuminary a sphere only give a spot reflection of about 1/300 its diameter ( PM me for the detailed calcs) The back reflected light from a planet to its moon (we call it Earthshine for our moon) I'd say should be modeled to give that feeling of depth and solidity. About 10% of the incident on the planet would probably be a good starting point. Hope this helps! ( I design flight simulator aircraft !!)
  18. Welcome to the solar Club!!! Unfortunately if you're like the rest of us, once you get "hooked" you'll want bigger and bigger solar scopes!!!!! The PST is a great starting point, you just have to look at Jan Timmermans web site to see some excellent solar images taken with a PST and webcam. Hold off sending the warranty until you've used it on the Sun. As long as you have the original purchase receipt, the five year warrenty still holds good. The current model with the blue onbjective doesn't suffer the same "rust" problems as the early ones, so you should be OK. Check that the etalon can be tuned by turning the rubber knurled ring a few times; should be smooth and easy; same for the small focussing knob. I found the best views were with a 10mm Plossl. First time out you may be disappointed... it takes a couple of goes to train the eye to see the surface granulations and a bit of fiddle with the tuner to get the best prominence views, but once you've mastered the basics I'm sure you'll find it very, very exciting. Enjoy!!!!!!
  19. The 4 minute difference in the rates is almost one degree/ day. So the "error" is 2.5 min of arc/hr, 2.5 sec of arc/ min. If you have good seeing conditions of say 2" star images, this infers that they would appear as an oval 2" x 4.5" in a one minute exposure - that's a noticable elongation. Hope this helps.
  20. Gary, The rings are closing but will not disappear; very narrow in Dec (<0.6 sec arc) and then open up again slightly, closing and disappearing edge-on on the 4th Sept 2009.
  21. Phil, Can't comment on the Mak, but as I said using my 12" LX200 for spectroscopy ( usually with a 20 micron slit) I could not keep the relative movements of the EXT90 guide star matching the image in the slit on the 12". I know I can get mirror movement during focussing ( and have fitted a mirror lock) in the 12" and found that there was also movement of the mirror/ flip mirror in the ETX during exposures. I changed initially to a piggy-back ED80; no problems what so ever and recently went to the ST80 ( lighter, shorter tube etc) My 2c
  22. Guiding an SCT with another SCT is not good news; with mirror flip on both tends to be a nuisance. I tried an ETX90 on my 12"LX200 with poor results! Ended up with a ST80 + QHY5.
  23. If you need something for CCD cameras, and not DSLR's then " The New CCD Astronomy" by Ron Wodaski, is pretty good.
  24. Besides the offer of the Celestron; to answer the original question almost any reasonable scope will handle white light observing of the Sun.
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