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About deanen

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  1. Hi All I've recently bought a 2nd hand D3200 which I modified by removing the IR cut filter. I've done a couple of sessions and the camera seems to work well. One of my recent targets has been the Orion Nebula (see pic below) taken with a Optolong broadband filter (19x60sec, ISO200). I also captures 19x15sec subs and was hoping to combine the 2 images to provide more detail in the central region of the nebula. Do any of you know of good tutorials on combining images or can provide guidance on how I can reduce the brightness of the central region?
  2. Hi All Based on the information I've found on the internet, I've been taking flat frames with a histogram between 1/3 to 1/2 way across the graph from the left. What I'm uncertain of is whether the frames should be taken so that collectively they span the entire 1/3 to 1/2 section or do I just take multiple frames with the histogram in the same spot.
  3. @white dwarf Thanks for posting that nugget of info, it helped me find another post confirming the bayonet to sensor distance and I learnt something new ( DSLRs have phi mark on the body inline with sensor allowing measurement of the sensor to the bayonet distance). The T adaptor I have is 8.5mm so puts me at 55mm on the dot. It would seem that the barlow does introduce the artefact as the picture below was taken with just the MPCC earlier this week and it isn't present. I'll need to investigate whether inserting the barlow deeper into the focuser will eliminate it but that tends
  4. A powered hub should be able to work with at least 4 devices (depending on current draw) plugged in before you actually need to connect it to a power supply. A PC USB port can supply upto 500mA and I've been able to use 2-3 (EQDIR, guidescope) of 7 ports on my hub without needing to connect the PSU.
  5. Unfortunately, I don't have any without the barlow. The weather looks like it might be decent for a few hours this evening. I'll try a few snaps with and without the barlow, and adjusting the back focus and post the results.
  6. Hi Wyvern Rookie mistake not posted all the required info. I was using my SW explorer 200PDS with a SW x2 barlow and MPCC III. I'm not entirely sure on the back focus, but I believe I'm at 54.8 so with the 1mm deviation window.
  7. Hi All I've tried photographing M57 (ISO 3200, Expo 1:45m) with my Nikon D3100 with some success (i think), however I would like some guidance on the stars at the edges of the picture. All of the stars seem to have a tail radiating out from the centre of the pic. I assume this is coma, but I'm not entire sure whether my drift alignment or focus is spot on. I haven't stacking the 5 subs I managed to take last night as I didn't have time to take the darks or flats. Any criticism/guidance will be greatly appreciated. DSC_0010.NEF
  8. I've found this to be the same with my mount (recticle is ~ 30 degs west of north), but like you said as long as I place 0 at the noon position polar alignment works out just fine.
  9. Hi All I bought my first scope back in Mar this year and spent quite a bit of time researching how to use the HEQ5 and setting up the RA and Date circles to allow for precise positioning of Polaris. Once I received it, I spent even more time reading up on polar alignment (credit to Astro Baby, your guides on Polar Aligning the HEQ5 were a great help), but now I don’t quite understand whether setting the RA and Date circles are actually necessary for mounts with this new reticule. As I’m sure many of you know, the position of Polaris is calculated by the Synscan HC based
  10. It's unlikely the raspberry pi burnt out the cable. The Rpi works on regulated 5V (2.5A max) and the USB ports and can only deliver 0.5A (not enough to run 2 external harddrives). From my understanding the RJ45 cable supplied for the mount to HC is a standard patch cable (ethernet cable). You might try plugging the cable into you home router/modem and laptop. If it works, it may indicate the cable is sound. EDIT: Just to be clear, I mean use the cable as an ethernet cable (modem/router to laptop).
  11. I might have missed it, but you haven't indicated whether you have the mount connected to a 12v power supply?
  12. Jiggy thanks for the response and apologies for not providing an update sooner. Tried out your suggestion without success. I've even bought a Lynx USB RS232 cable and still the same result. I think I might have a dud USB port on the HC. I'm gonna contact Harrison Telescopes and see if they have solution or are willing to change the controller.
  13. I just wanted to follow-up on this tread. Have you managed to update the firmware on the V5 hand controller. I'm struggling to update my controller. The update software doesn't detect the controller when the USB cable is inserted and Device Manager on my laptop (same for my desktop) does list a COM port. The instructions on the Skywatcher website hasn't been updated for this controller as it mentioned using a separate power supply to power the controlled, but the V5 only has the RJ45, RJ11/12 and USB B ports. EDIT: I should add, I tried connecting the controller (RJ45) cable
  14. Hi I'm new to astronomy and took the plunge with the 200PDS - HEQ5 combo just over a month ago and I'm impressed with the scope and mount, though its been a steep learning curve figuring out collimation, polar scope alignment, and polar alignment particularly as my polar scope seems to be a newer version with only Octans and the clock face (sorry, still learning the jargon) for Polaris alignment . I was able to take advantage of the good weather a few weeks ago and tested out astrophotography, 1st with my mobile (Moon, Jupiter and Saturn) by just hold the phone up to
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