michael8554

Never made much sense of the DebugLog, could you post the GuideLog too ? Michael

To eliminate PA, guiding, and stacking artefacts, you should only examine a single stretched short exposure, as short as possible. Michael

2 arcsec/pixel at 1600mm FL requires 16um pixels. 3 arcsecs/pixel requires 23um pixels !! 6um is about as big as it goes with common cameras from QHY and ZWO, which gives 0.77arcsecs/pixel, or 1.54arcsecs/pixel binned. Michael

The power supply that came with my Dummy Battery is 3Amp, so the Anker might be okay with both USB leads connected, if that gives 2 x 2A =4A. Michael

A basic visual check of the alignment of the mirrors : https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/623603-collimation-of-an-sct-from-scratch-a-photo-guide/ Michael

Then a different problem to Calibration, you need to post that Log ! Michael

Hi Scotty The difference between when PHD2 is Calibrating and when it's Guiding is pretty obvious. Sounds like you need to read and apply some of the PHD2 Help Guides you can find via the Help menu. Michael

Hi Scotty Sounds like it was using a previous Cal, and something was different from your last Cal, so carry out a new one. If you hover the pointer over any of the PHD2 buttons, you get some Help text. In the case of the "Guide" button, it says something like "Shift-Click to start a new Calibration" In case there's a different problem, post your PHD2 GuideLog (they're in the PHD2 Folder) Michael

If it is intermittent buttons, then a clean of the PCB contacts with alcohol is the recommended first step. Here's the cleaning and painting process:

A clever design. Reminds me of the mod to Meade/Celestron FRs, that allowed them to be mounted inside the focuser, which shortened the rear overhang. Michael

Between the Moonlite and the camera is the only correct position for the FR, so that the Back Focus doesn't change when you alter the Moonlite focus. Leave the Moonlite on the scope to focus your visual setup. Michael

The LX200GPS has its "brains" in the mount, the Autostar II handset is just a display and buttons. Unlike the Autostar 497 used in the EXT etc, which actually is the "brains" of the mount. So not much to go wrong, what problem does yours have Percivel ? The Autostar II is used in many current Meade mounts, so a replacement should be available, COVID allowing. If you want to run wireless, try the ScopeBoss app on iOS iPad or iPhone. I have it on an iPhone 6, about right for button size, and fits in the pocket. You will need a wireless RS232 Adapter, see here for details: https://groups.io/g/LX200GPS/topic/scopeboss_problem_connecting/74427989?p=,,,20,0,0,0::recentpostdate%2Fsticky,,,20,2,120,74427989 A long read with much misleading info from the misinformed, but finally gets there. Seems that depending on your WiFi adapter, you may or may not need to reverse Rx and Tx on the cable from the Adapter to the RS232 port on the mount. Michael

For Planetary Imaging you use the camera in Video mode, producing a continuous video stream like a TV camera. Then focusing should be relatively easy. For DSO Imaging of faint DSOs you use Long Exposure Mode, and 1 second sounds like you're in that mode by mistake. SharpCap is good for Planetary Imaging, if your camera works with it. Michael

Good point. I've always Dithered every frame, so movement of the subs and cropping are a norm for me. Shouldn't you Dither too, if you're getting tartan images ? Michael

Good to hear Michael

I was concerned about your extremely fast exposures. Cameras with mechanical rolling shutters such as the ASI 1600MM will often have a shutter artefact in the Flat with exposures faster than about 1 second. Michael

So no mechanical shutter on the camera ? Michael

So why worry about PA ? PA error is extremely difficult to measure, so getting repeatable readings is unlikely. Having said that, if your SW9x50 finder is in the wobbly holder and finder shoe, that won't help. PHD2 only nags if the PA error is larger than 5arcMINS in a Guide Assistant run, the PHD2 gurus consider that to be easily guided out. So stick with your 10arcSECS and get guiding ! Michael

Wrong. PHD2 needs best focus on the guidecam. Go for the lowest HFD reading in the PHD2 Star Profile window. Focus the imaging camera on a bright star near your target, if there's none available on-target. If you post the PHD2 GuideLog file, the quality of the Calibration and the guiding can be assessed. With more experience you should get round stars with longer exposures. ISO above 1600 might be excessive. Have a read of the many help files available through the help menu. Michael

In it's simplest form, to Planetary Image, you only need software to expose and download the camera images (SkyCapture in your case ?). You move the mount with the handbox to the planet, most of them are easy to locate visually. But to control this remotely, load software that displays the night sky like a map on your computer, and connects to your mount via the ASCOM Mount Driver. You click on the image of the object and select GoTo, and the mount moves to that object. Generically called a Planetarium, versions include the free Cartes du Ciel and Stellarium, or fully-loaded software such as APT. Michael

What exposure was that ? Michael

Sorry, that makes no sense. To be in focus, the guidecam sensor MUST be the same distance from the prism as the imaging camera. And both are after the FR, so equally Reduced. You must be measuring wrong. Perhaps an image of your setup would clarify ? Michael

I'd be more than happy with those star shapes....... Michael

What camera? An astro-modded DSLR may well have had it's sensor reinstalled with tilt. Michael

Only way to be sure is to look at the PHD2 Guidelog and DebugLog. Michael