Scooot

Well, I’ve only had a chance to use it once, but it was much better than using an extension lead 😀I’m upgrading my mount and camera soon so I wanted portable power that could handle it all.

I actually powered mine for a bit with 8 AA rechargeable batteries but they’ll only last a couple of hours, then I realised I had an old Maplin DC power supply in a drawer, a bit like the one in your link. It just needs to be 12V DC with a minimum of 3amps, 5amps if you’re using the sockets and or running something juicy through it, (and positive tip polarity). I’ve now got a Celestron Lithium Power tank, a Christmas present 😀

It looks fine to me.

Thanks for the info, yes I think it’s a great little device. FLO are replacing it for me when they get some more stock in.

Thanks Stevie, yes it makes no difference I’m afraid. I have a faulty unit it seems so I’m waiting for ZWO to authorise a replacement.

Yes, you’re correct about the power requirements of the EAF , although it’s fairly minimal. I’m powering my Asiair with a Celestron power tank, 12v @ 3amp which is ample. I received my Asiair in about July but I hadn’t tried the sockets until now. I suppose one thing to learn from this is to do so on receipt otherwise it could have gone out of warranty without me even knowing about the fault. Everything else works perfectly as far as I can tell.

Hi, yes, I had a reply from them yesterday. I’ve just received another which is basically to test the sockets with a universal meter if I have one. If that’s negative I think I’ll be going through some sort of return procedure. I think my neighbour has a meter. I’m pretty sure it will be negative so it looks as if the unit will be replaced. I’ll update again later.

There’s a slightly different configuration for imaging, I think that probably accounts for the difference.

It’s not always that easy because if you try to reveal a perfectly exposed moon in the overexposed moon image, it can look very odd because of the extremely bright background surrounding the moon in the overexposed moon image. If you have a foreground with the moon higher in the sky it’s easier to use the gradient tool because gradually revealing a darker background surrounding the moon wouldn’t be such an issue. For example the following image is an HDR image whereby the moon detail was able to be revealed because the huge dynamic range was embedded into the moon HDR image. That’s why the moon in the image still retains its brightness. The perfectly exposed moon in the shorter exposure was a dark grey with a black background. Had I tried to reveal that using a layer it would have looked quite odd. Similarly I could have revealed a darker more detailed image in the HDR image but it would have begun to look more unnatural. Anyway it’s difficult to suggest one method that suits all images, and I’m sure other more experienced imagers have other ways.

Out of curiosity why do you want to do that?

Hi, I’m no expert but tried a few ways. This is one method I’ve used to combine moon images. https://www.photoshopessentials.com/basics/elements/fake-layer-mask/ However, using the gradient tool probably won’t work very well if you’re trying to show clouds surrounding a nicely exposed moon, so you could use one of the other brushes to reveal the moon in the layer below. The other method I’ve used is to create an HDR image using the hdrcomposition tool in Pixinsight, but I guess there’s an equivalent in photoshop. However I usually need 3 or 4 exposures to get it to work.

Welcome to the forum. Do you want to eliminate the name whilst you have the object selected, if so I don’t think you can do that.

Hi all, I’ve treated myself to an Asi electronic focuser and installed it ok. I’ve also got it working, but only by powering it separately from my Asiair pro. The Asiair has four 12 volt output sockets, when I try and power the eaf, or anything else, via one of these sockets there’s no power getting to the device. I’ve checked all combinations of leads and they’re all ok.The sockets are turned on in the asi app so I think there must be a fault with the Asiair, unless I’m missing something. Has anyone any ideas or had similar problems? Thank you.

Another fantastic image Avani & a fascinating write up. I was trying to picture which craters were which so created a screen shot from Sky Safari with their labels.

Lovely images, a smashing record of the event.

Great capture, I was looking at it again this evening which was the first clear chance since Sunday.

You can do live stacking with the ASIAIR Pro and use the Asiair app on the phone or tablet to view it if that counts.

That’s a fantastic image.

Yes it’s that as well.

Thank you, I’ve also just noticed I left an “L” out of Callisto.

I took this with my 450D & 10" Dob, 2 seconds for the moon a 1/30 second for the planets. No detail but you can tell they're planets, a record of the only clear evening

“I dont think its possible to connect my guidecam to the z73 is it?” I have the ZWOasi 120mm mini and I can just slot it in the eyepiece holder of my 60mm FS60, can you do that with yours? However I’m going to put the 120mm camera in my 10” Dob on the EQ platform & try that.

I do use my Canon 450D with it which works well, but I guess you mean other hardware.

I still haven’t been able to use mine much even though I’ve had it since June. However, I like it a lot and It has added another dimension to my very basic imaging skills. For example, this morning, in between rain drops I was focussing my Tak on the cockerel on the Church Steeple half a mile away with the ASI mini camera I bought as a guide camera. With the extender at F10 the FOV looks perfect for the conjunction. With this setup I’ll be able to use the ASIair’s video function and hopefully get a better image and image scale of the two planets than I would have with my canon, if it’s clear of course. It’ll be mono but I’ll accept the trade off.

It should be under the heading: Street Lighting Pollution - £thousands 😂 I agree other pollution could be listed as well, although too much detail would lose its impact.