StevieDvd

Just to clarify. If the mount has it's own USB port then it's likely to be using a Prolific Technology driver (the com port/serial is in the mount itself and still uses the COM port connectivity). Mounts with USB ports tend to use 115200 baud and you use a USB-USB printer style cable. Prolific Tech drivers tend to change the port number in use but hopefully EQMod on auto should find it. The Eqmod cables that fit into the handset port on the mount have a serial chip embedded in the cable and the better ones use the FTDI drivers which normally are present or auto installed in Windows, as they are standardised to older serial usage they need 9600 baud setting. You don't need to have this type connected to the mount to load a driver or check the serial port selected. Try the universal FTDI driver from https://ftdichip.com/drivers/ this will check the serial chip and should load the correct driver.

Have you tried using the Script/Render/Annotate Image option on a plate-solved image? It identifies a lot of the detail - sometimes too much😉

Watch their prices though - they seem to be quite over-priced on their Ebay site. Get a guide price from FLO (or Widescreen, RVO etc) to compare if you see something you want to take home.

It's confusing even if you read the specs. The output of all the ports at maximum would far exceed what the maximum input can accept. The hungriest devices are usually the mount, powered cameras and dew heaters. If under supplied the issues can be erratic and if you search forums there will always be the few who say it's fine for them (until they get an issue). Best advice is to have a suitable power supply (or several) and split it to supply separate feed to the ASIAir and the mount/camera.

Apologies I thought I replied to your question. Must have been interrupted and not saved the response. I believe it was a 6mm coupler and as stated above if fitted in place of the single speed knob you have a choice of: Having the coupler further out its diameter is larger then the hole the single speed knob came out of. Reduce the diameter of the coupler on the side fitted on the focuser spindle, or find a smaller one on Amazon as they are common for 3d printers. From memory I believe it is one grub screw holding the knob in place but best to check for a second if the knob does not come off easily.

I would expect it to be a simple identity check ,so you are at the correct starting point, as it uses plate solving to calculate your current PA centre and adjustments needed.

I've only used WBPP and lately FPBB but only a few days ago whilst checking out another feature I came across an Adam Block video about settings for Pixel Rejection. In that he changed the settings criticising the defaults as poor and showing the use of ESD (Generalised Extreme Studentized Deviate) in the ImageIntegration values.

Are you using the WeightedBatchPreprocessing or the FastBatchPreprocessing scripts and changing a pixel rejection setting(s)?

A quick search for your reducer, as per Altair , shows you need 55mm spacing from the rear to the sensor. So with the collar providing 17.5mm spacing you'd need 37.5mm spacing added. With M42 at the camera end and M48 at the reducer side.

The simple part of the question is the camera collar will take a M42 x0.75 thread, such as a 1.25 nosepiece. The difficult part is getting the back spacing for the focal reducer correct. See diagrams at bottom of this page for the camera spacing with/without that collar.

Not many Dwarf pics lately so I thought I'd post a capture last night of M31 with the Dwarf in EQ mode on a nice stable WO wedge. 15 second exposures at gain 50 - 542 exposures around 2 1/4 hours this is the Dwarf saved png stacked/uncropped image - I have yet to do any post processing of the fits so hope to improve it a bit. And with a quick process and colour calibration in PI.

You asked about guide camera so have you an imaging camera to use (ZWO/DSLR) already? The ASIAir Pro, as it uses an sd-card, can run Astroberry or Stellarmate which work with other brands of cameras (including ZWO). Not as simple to setup as the ZWO app but both have their reasons for some Astro users.

Not that I expected you would but they are the only non-ZWO cameras that can be used with the ASIAir for PA, guiding or imaging. Do you already have the ASIAir or checking before getting one?

The AsiAir will only accept ZWO cameras and some DSLR, I've not heard of anyone using a DSLR for guiding though.

Easier to watch a video than describe it in text: For example this video Covers doing a simple plate solve to let the Asiair know it's on target and selecting the sky atlas option for sun, moon & planets.

Depending on which AsiAir you have, and how you connect to it, there may be an option to access the (saved) files remotely on your laptop. Would that be an acceptable method? For example https://www.zwoastro.com/2019/08/16/asiair-guide-3-ways-to-import-images-from-asiair/

Well whichever one of them is bought obviously makes a sale and profit for them, as opposed to a different maker (e.g. ZWO).

In other industries it was quite common for a main brand to offer the same products under different names. That way they get both the premium buyers and the lower priced customers as well.

If you have the ASIAir as the Wi-Fi network and switch it to station mode without an ethernet connection it would/should get an ip address from your network. That should stay unless you reset it. However, if you have an ethernet connection when you next powerup it will likely take priority over Wi-Fi and be given the same ip address as before. Disconnecting the ethernet than may not automatically switch to Wi-Fi (as you are experiencing). When using Astroberry/Stellarmate/Raspberry OS you can set a connection order, I don't recall this option on the ASIAir. If you remove the ethernet cable and restart the ASIAir on Wi-Fi is it connecting in station mode correctly?

The bolts on the top are likely to be 1/4" photo thread, the M6 used for the dovetail below. If you have any photo thread bolts/adapters you can use those to test fit before ordering the bolts, but hopefully FLO will advise.

I hope you went for the 'clouds not included version'. 🙂

SVBony do an all inclusive shipping, vat & customs price. I normally pay by credit card in these instances and if I was charged extra on top of the price I paid I'd expect either SVBony or the credit card company to refund that.

I have the RTC90 and bought an extra plate for it. One is for the AM5 and another for the Dwarf/Seestar/Solarquest. When I needed to add the option for my heavy Alt/Az Sabre mount I used the bowl instead of buying another plate and it works well. The Sabre sits on a Geoptik EQ6/5 adapter and the bowl is under that, all tightens up nicely and makes the RTC90 a plug & play tripod for me.

Possibly a reason for moving on from the Evolution mount is the desire to use EQ mode. I sold my Evolution setup as I was down-sizing to a refractor/AM5 setup. The 8" HD scope sold first and the mount went to a friend who later sold it but said that was a regret. Mine also used the Celestron Starsense Camera so setup was easy and allowed the use of astro apps, I don't like handsets so much. It's better than the Nexstar SE mounts (imo).

I've got the Fusion 260 loaded will have a bash at the videos and see if I can get to grips with it. Thanks all.