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Everything posted by StevieDvd

  1. Not having done a swap of a focuser on a dob myself but brain-storming a solution I had the idea of using 2 templates to get a good alignment. Create a template of the current SW focuser (A) note the position of the screw holes & centre cut-out Make a similar one (B) for the Baader - make allowance for the tube curvature Centre the SW template on top of the Baader one so you can use the 4 holes of the SW template to align the Baader template. If the cut-out on each is the same size then a simple alignment, if not then you would need to find the centre of each cut-out to align with. Though I expect someone may come up with a better/simpler solution if they've actually done the deed themselves๐Ÿ™ƒ
  2. Is this the video? Looks like the 4 screws are just to hold the plate in position for you to line up the plate with the tube hole. Are you using the same 4 holes as the video (i.e. the elongated ones)? Otherwise you need to do the same alignment but with another method to hold the plate in place whilst you drill/mark the new holes. Or make up a cardboard template and tape that to the tube and drill through that. Hopefully, someone here may have swapped the focuser for a Baader one on the same scope.
  3. I'm a bit outdated on the sd-card transfer speeds then - like in other things too ๐Ÿ˜ถ I normally copy my image files using wi-fi/ethernet as it's less hassle, though I did try the USB-c connected to my laptop which seemed faster than using the sd-card via a USB3 adapter.
  4. The HEQ5 base is/was slightly smaller then the standard EQ5 base so in the past I could mount my HEQ5 on a standard EQ5 tripod but some EQ5 mounts could be a tight fit in a HEQ5 base. I have a an old HEQ5 pier adapter (no longer have the HEQ5) and tried to use the EQ5 adapter supplied with my ZWO AM5 extender, it would not fit in so I had to sand the adapter by a few millimetres to get it to fit. Check with US suppliers to confirm that you can buy an EQ5 tripod and they should confirm it will be fine for your HEQ5. It makes no sense to try sourcing from abroad when a local seller should stock an EQ5 tripod.
  5. The early ASIAir Plus used the PI Composite module (processor) on a ZWO board. These were soon replaced with a new ZWO board and a Rockchip processor. ZWO cameras use Rockchip processors so they had a supplier when PI units were harder to source in volume. When transferring files from the ASIAir Plus the sd-card is the slowest. If not using wifi or ethernet you can also just connect the unit via the USB-c port and it should then act like a USB device to your PC, it's not well documented by ZWO but is mentioned here.
  6. The ZWO sd-card is 32gb as that's the size of (all) the Linux partitions defined. Unlike the PC disk copiers the sd-card write programs don't have an option to use the free space. I believe it is possible to resize the partition(s) later on a Linux system but not a trivial exercise for someone not familiar with Linux.
  7. That's possible under certain scenarios: The images are heavily cropped, rotation artefacts are in the four corners. The post processing is heavy and the corners artefacts processed out The 2 hours are comprised of several nights imaging with short exposures The final image is sharing data from several peoples sessions It's Facebook so must be true๐Ÿ™„
  8. The max exposure is 30 secs at present. A 2.5 hour exposure, if possible, would be so field rotated it would probably be all field rotation mess. Both the Seestar and Dwarf Labs devices have users setting up them up in an 'eq mode' , by somewhat controversial means to overcome field rotation.
  9. Look here then ๐Ÿ˜€ though it's not illustrated. synscan_app_manual_en_20230525.pdf
  10. Okay it appears you have grasped the PA process both using the polarscope and the app. And as you can get the mel/maz values can see how far off you are from a good PA, at best these would both be zero. But probably 1 arc-minute would be the best you could expect to get (according to SW) I had the SW GTi briefly before I upgraded to a ZWO AM5 and never used the polarscope. I set the Alt based on my location and pointed North using my iPhone then PA'd via the app or a connected ASIAir, that was for visual I did not image with the SW Gti. So based on your equipment and software: As I still have the Syncan app and can set it to simulate mode I can see the stages you would go through as an iterative process (align, PA, align & check) Check your date/time & location are correct in the app Start PA process until mel/maz value is as low as possible Do a 2 or 3 star alignment End with an Up/Right click Check the mel/maz error Do the PA using the Alt/Az bolts as needed. Redo a 2 or 3 star alignment End with an Up/Right click Check the mel/maz error Repeat as required When you adjust the Azimuth bolts, loosen one side as you tighten the other, but make sure they are not left loose. The end on Up/Right move for aligning is per SW notes to cater for backlash. Home position - if your PA is good a poor home position may make the first go-to look bad. I would loosen the clutches and centre the object - not use the cursor keys or alt/az bolts. I'd then do a go to 'home' and retry the first go to - the mount will set a home position, better than you can, and later each subsequent go to should be accurate as well. NB You can add a custom target in the app for 'home' to be able to do a go to home Hope this helps rather than confuse. I think I have covered the essentials - someone may spot anything I've missed. Steve
  11. No it's all enclosed. The pin is in the upper part and the adjustments bolts are in the part which connects to the tripod. The inverse of the wedges used to put an AZGTi in eq mode (they can't have azimuth pins in the tripod either). Suffice to say the missing azimuth pin was a red herring which has taken the thread off course.
  12. Your mel/maz settings still be the same is worrying. It is the adjustment that the mount expects to correct your PA when doing a goto. The SW PA/Align process for users without a polarscope is documented in the handset manual and involves doing a series of PA and Aligns to reduce the Mel/Maz Even the slightest adjustment of the Alt/Az would change those numbers. But if the app is the same as the handset method the values may only change after last 2 or 3 star alignment
  13. He has a SW GTi mount that has a 3/8 base that has a built in adjustment system. The green bolts push against a built in inverted stop and turns the top of the mount.
  14. Keep using the alt/az bolts. Polaris will be in a certain position at a given time. So if it's due to be at the eleven o'clock position that's where you should see it in the circle when you are aligned. If you imagine the circle is like a circular train track, then at any given time Polaris (the train) should be in a set part of the track. If you are correctly PA'd then turning your mount in RA 360 degrees, Polaris will stay in place and the track spins around it. If it goes off track then your mount pivot point is not correct in relation to Polaris. Remember that you are trying to adjust the central pivot point of your mount to that of the NCP. We can do that by noting the position of Polaris at a set time/date and from that can work out where your mount pivot point should be. Given your statement about age and back issues then I'd suggest doing a basic PA in the polar scope (align in the middle of the cross). Then use software PA (like Synscan, Sharpcap, NINA etc) to get it better. And don't worry about the questions some of us are retired and don't mind the challenge of getting someone new on the right track. Personally I think Polar scopes are evil and designed to sell back ache remedies. I have not used one for years.๐Ÿ˜€
  15. It took me a while for the penny to drop that there was an option that had a polar scope and a flat 3/8" tripod like the SW Star Adventurer GTi ๐Ÿ˜€
  16. Then how are you adjusting the mount in azimuth????? I see from your other posts you have mentioned a SW Gti is it this one That has the azimuth pin in the base of the mount so you can't see it and it allows the use of a 3/8 tripod.
  17. Okay just to clarify a few of your issues: The spike Malc refers to is the azimuth pin as shown here and which the azimuth bolts push against to adjust your PA. I read the manual of Syncan App and it is correct in allowing a further PA after a star alignment. This is only possible as it records the mel/maz settings which is stored for 'adjustments' needed to correct your goto.
  18. Okay I think I see your problem. You are still doing PA and star alignments in the wrong order. Get the best PA you can first and then let the mounts note your inaccuracies and it will then adjust for them automatically. If you redo the PA and don't redo the star alignment the mount will be doing the wrong adjustments. So even if your second PA dos a better job you should let the mount redo the star alignment process to note that the adjustments needed are different.
  19. You should not touch polar alignment (PA) after a star align. So basically always end on a star align process. This is because the star alignment lets the mount compensate for any PA error, this is ruined if you then adjust the PA again.
  20. https://stargazerslounge.com/forum/40-imaging-image-processing-help-and-techniques/ or https://stargazerslounge.com/forum/34-imaging-tips-tricks-and-techniques/
  21. I presume you mean Sirilic for Siril - not so user friendly and needs scripts for processing otheer than stacking as I understand. For Pixinsight there may be a tool (I've not seen one) but that would need a PI license and defeats having a no cost option for beginners.
  22. I have Graxpert installed in PixInsight and Siril has a cut-down version it uses. The whole point of the above is for a tool for someone to do a quick process - and possibly then to go on to better direct processing using Siril, Pixinsight etc. My processing is normally stacking in Siril and final processing in PixInsight.
  23. There was a site called Astrocooker that many S50 & Dwarf users used to process their pre-stacked images. That site has been taken down due to the misuse of commercial Astro software, leaving a gap for the novice imagers. I use Siril and PixInsight, and have the plugins from RC Astro, so as a coding exercise I decided to see if a replacement using PySiril would do something similar to Astrocooker using just Siril. If any coders here would like to have a look and improve/correct my attempt I'm attaching the python code and the text config file. I'm a self taught coder and code for fun and won't be trying to sell any of my code, happy for it to be used as freeware. It's not for anyone just expecting to run the code straight off as it involves installing PySiril from Github - see https://siril.org/tutorials/pysiril/ and a few other imports not in a Python setup. It will let you open a linear fits/tiff file and to select the processes to run. You can select all or clear all - or just the ones you want. As it's a work in progress I have not put all the settings in the config file yet, will do that once I'm happy the commands/settings used are good enough. Menu options let you view the opened fits header and open the result.png image once processed. Probably a few bugs to iron out and the params for each Siril command to clarify. astrosimple.iniAstroSimple.py
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