DSLR Mods - be brave!

[Jammy]

Has anyone been brave enough to astro mod their own dlsr rather than send it away?

I've got a second hand Canon EOS 600D and I'm thinking about removing/replacing the internal filter myself.

In all honesty, is it easy to do?  Are there any guides on the internet on how to do it that you can recommend?  I found this one which looks quite comprehensive http://dslrmodifications.com/rebelmod450d1.html

Also, if I want to use the camera for deep sky imaging do I require UV/IR block as you do with planetary imaging?

I was thinking of removing the cameras internal filter completely, but if I then require an UV/IR filter what would be a good replacement?  I've seen the Baader BCF correction fliter advertiesd.  Are there any alternatives?  Assuming that a filter is required.

Thanks for any advice that you can provide.

[Uplooker]

Here is a thread where PhotoGav mods his 60D. I appreciate that yours is a different camera, but there are loads of links and advice that will apply to doing yours such as tips on how to retain screws etc

http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/201827-self-modding-an-eos-60d/

Ian

[MattJenko]

I bought a second hand modded one, but thinking of doing the full spectrum mod myself and leaving no filters inside and that website is exactly the one I will be using. I just need to pluck up the courage.

I think I am going to stump up some money for the Baader Protective T-Ring and the IR/UV filter (no spacing issues), which can be used for later upgrades as well. My reason for modding is that I am getting some pretty big reflections at the moment and everything points to the internal replacement filter being the culprit. The Baader is expensive, but cheaper than a CCD or a new DSLR.

[Nathan_Pembs]

I modified my own 450D about 2 months ago, took me about an hour, hour 1/2?

I just followed a step by step guide online and went slow, I used a piece of paper drawing little diagrams of screw positions and then taped the screws down so not to lose them (tiny screws!)

You'll need prescision screwdrivers and cocktail sticks to remove/replace a few delicate cables.

I removed the whole filter so I need to invest in an IR filter

[Jammy]

Thanks for the replies. From what you are all saying it looks like the IR/UV filter is still required.

I've watched a couple of videos on YouTube showing dissection. I'll have a look through the instructions before I attempt anything!

[SkySurfer]

There are two filters in these cameras, and only one has to be removed, the other is left in place as it does not cut the Ha signal at all, but it does cut IR which is what you need, so you have two options

Remove just the one filter and leave the other in place for IR cut ( the most common mod) no IR cut filter needed

Or remove both, which is called the full spectrum mod (least common mod) then you will need IR cut filter.

Hope that helps

:)

SS

[Chris]

I've completed 5 modded cameras so far: 2x 300D, 2x350D, and an 1100D. I've found the Gary Honis guide you linked to be very good. Follow it slowly and carefully and you should be fine

I left all my cameras fully modded and they work great with reflectors but can cause a touch of star bloat on refractors, in which case some kind of IR filter in the imaging train is desirable. Lots of people use the CLS CCD clip filters that simply clips into the aperture of the camera and also protect the camera from the effects of dust.

[SkySurfer]

I've completed 5 modded cameras so far: 2x 300D, 2x350D, and an 1100D. I've found the Gary Honis guide you linked to be very good. Follow it slowly and carefully and you should be fine

I left all my cameras fully modded and they work great with reflectors but can cause a touch of star bloat on refractors, in which case some kind of IR filter in the imaging train is desirable. Lots of people use the CLS CCD clip filters that simply clips into the aperture of the camera and also protect the camera from the effects of dust.

+1 for the AStronomik Clip in filters, CCD version for a full spectrum modded camera, or the non CCD version for the normal modded camera, the CCD version is around £30 more I think, so it is cheaper to leave the second filter in place.....

SS

[SkySurfer]

+1 for the AStronomik Clip in filters, CCD version for a full spectrum modded camera, or the non CCD version for the normal modded camera, the CCD version is around £30 more I think, so it is cheaper to leave the second filter in place.....

SS

Forgot to mention that the IR cut is the only difference between the CCD and non CCD version of those filters

SS

[Chris]

The link above is a vid of the mod using a similar model so should give you the idea

+1 for the AStronomik Clip in filters, CCD version for a full spectrum modded camera, or the non CCD version for the normal modded camera, the CCD version is around £30 more I think, so it is cheaper to leave the second filter in place.....
SS

Good point about the price, however, its worth bearing in mind that the cameras IR filter isn't as good for astro as doing a full spectrum mod and adding a specialist astro IR cut filter.

[lensman57]

Has anyone been brave enough to astro mod their own dlsr rather than send it away?

I've got a second hand Canon EOS 600D and I'm thinking about removing/replacing the internal filter myself.

In all honesty, is it easy to do?  Are there any guides on the internet on how to do it that you can recommend?  I found this one which looks quite comprehensive http://dslrmodifications.com/rebelmod450d1.html

Also, if I want to use the camera for deep sky imaging do I require UV/IR block as you do with planetary imaging?

I was thinking of removing the cameras internal filter completely, but if I then require an UV/IR filter what would be a good replacement?  I've seen the Baader BCF correction fliter advertiesd.  Are there any alternatives?  Assuming that a filter is required.

Thanks for any advice that you can provide.

I have Mono modded a 350d and I found it a nerve wracking experience which I will not be attempting again. Doing a filter removal mod is not too difficult with extreme care and a methodical approach. Do as much research as possible on your own camera model.

A.G

[Chris]

I have Mono modded a 350d and I found it a nerve wracking experience which I will not be attempting again. Doing a filter removal mod is not too difficult with extreme care and a methodical approach. Do as much research as possible on your own camera model.

A.G

Good work! There can't be many cameras about that have survived being DeBayered! 

[lensman57]

There are two filters in these cameras, and only one has to be removed, the other is left in place as it does not cut the Ha signal at all, but it does cut IR which is what you need, so you have two options

Remove just the one filter and leave the other in place for IR cut ( the most common mod) no IR cut filter needed

Or remove both, which is called the full spectrum mod (least common mod) then you will need IR cut filter.

Hope that helps

:)

SS

When I got my modded 1100d from Cheap Astrophotography I asked for the AA filter to be removed too. If a CCD clip filter or an IDAS LPS filter is used with a full spectrum camera then the inbuilt IR blocking of the filters will do the job and no separate IR block filter is required.

Regards,

A.G

[ollypenrice]

It's a piece of cake. Bit like brain surgery. Just drill a decent size hole in the front of your head, get a mirror, some clean needle pliers....

lly

[Jammy]

There are two filters in these cameras, and only one has to be removed, the other is left in place as it does not cut the Ha signal at all, but it does cut IR which is what you need, so you have two options

Remove just the one filter and leave the other in place for IR cut ( the most common mod) no IR cut filter needed

Or remove both, which is called the full spectrum mod (least common mod) then you will need IR cut filter.

Thank you SkySurfer - that's what I wanted to know really.  I think I'll remove the one filter and leave the IR cut in place.  I'm not too concerned about the loss of autofocus because I already own a 600D (from new) which I use for general photography.

I decided to buy a second one for astro because I know the workings well enough to operate it in the dark! 

I left all my cameras fully modded and they work great with reflectors but can cause a touch of star bloat on refractors, in which case some kind of IR filter in the imaging train is desirable. Lots of people use the CLS CCD clip filters that simply clips into the aperture of the camera and also protect the camera from the effects of dust.

I have a C9.25 SCT with focal reducer.  Will star bloating be a problem with this scope?  Starfox, if you've modded 5 cameras I'll take your word for it that I should be ok.  I'm actually excited about giving it a go!

The link above is a vid of the mod using a similar model so should give you the idea

I watched that video last week.  I have to say the guy in the video does make it look easy.  There are a couple of points where I wish he'd moved his hands out of the way   

[Jammy]

When I got my modded 1100d from Cheap Astrophotography I asked for the AA filter to be removed too. If a CCD clip filter or an IDAS LPS filter is used with a full spectrum camera then the inbuilt IR blocking of the filters will do the job and no separate IR block filter is required.

Debayering your camera really is brave.  I'm not up for trying that just yet!

I'll probably need a light pollution filter, do these come as clip filters?  Do they have inbuilt IR blocking?

[Jammy]

It's a piece of cake. Bit like brain surgery. Just drill a decent size hole in the front of your head, get a mirror, some clean needle pliers....

lly

I'll try that another time Olly haha!

[Knight of Clear Skies]

I decided that terror was the better part of valour and sent my 1100D off to Cheap Astrophotography to be modded.

I've used my 1100D and a modded 100D without any UV/IR block, it doesn't seem to be a big problem. The 100D was producing a lot of hot pixels when the weather was hotter (maybe 15C), but kappa-sigma clipping when stacking with a bit of drift in the tracking took care of that.

The CLS clip filters come in versions with a without IR blocking, the confusingly named CCD version is the one that has it.

[lensman57]

Debayering your camera really is brave.  I'm not up for trying that just yet!

I'll probably need a light pollution filter, do these come as clip filters?  Do they have inbuilt IR blocking?

Yes both Astronomik and IDAS do them as a clip filter. The IDAS version is a Broadband LP filter, the Astronomik is a Narrowband LP filter, you could say that it is a like a nebula filter.

A.G

[lensman57]

I decided that terror was the better part of valour and sent my 1100D off to Cheap Astrophotography to be modded.

I've used my 1100D and a modded 100D without any UV/IR block, it doesn't seem to be a big problem. The 100D was producing a lot of hot pixels when the weather was hotter (maybe 15C), but kappa-sigma clipping when stacking with a bit of drift in the tracking took care of that.

The CLS clip filters come in versions with a without IR blocking, the confusingly named CCD version is the one that has it.

Try Dithering with a DSLR, it really does make the difference. I use APT and Nebulasity for capture and both Dither with PHD.

A.G

[laser_jock99]

Full spectrum cameras will work okay with all mirror systems (e.g. Newtonians).

Refractors on the other hand, mess it up because they can't focus all wavelengths in one plane. Even the very best Apo triplets don't do UV thru NIR.

How much information/data are we rejecting with our UV IR filters?

[Jammy]

I'll probably leave the IR cut in the camera.  I can always remove it and get a clip filter at a later date.  I'll let you know how I get on.  Thanks for the help   

[StuartJPP]

I have modded 2 so far, a Canon 1100D and a Canon 650D. Just take your time and one of the most handiest tips is the screw sheet (to stick your removed screws on to).

Make sure you have got all the tools necessary and a few "Tupperware" boxes to store the removed bits to keep dust at bay. I also saved the web pages and the video so that if by any chance the internet went down half way through I wouldn't be stuck.

There are a few discrepancies in Gary's video and instructions, most notably around removing the top part of the camera to get at some screws. On some models you can get to them without removing the top with a bit of difficulty, on another (think it was the 650D), it was impossible to do so. There are some tricky bits, probably the worst is the getting the sensor back in its original position. I used a digital vernier on each of the 4 pegs as well as marking them. If it wasn't for Gary's videos I, and possibly others, wouldn't have modded mine so always grateful for his efforts.

It isn't a race to finish it. I left my 650D overnight half-way through modification as I replaced the filter with a Baader one and waited for the small dollops of silicone holding it in place to set, but the 1100D was done in a single sitting.

[Jammy]

Thanks Stuart - I'll keep that in mind and certainly won't be rushing anything!

[Chris]

I don't think Starbloat will be an issue with your SCT. I'll be able to confirm this shortly mind as I've started imaging with my C8 Edge now I have the .7 reducer, just need the time to process my 350D data I took the other night.

I think its just pure lens systems that suffer, like Laser_jock said