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Webcam Mod wiring

malc-c

By malc-c
in DIY Astronomer

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Bladeless

Bladeless

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Hi Lee

I have been following this thread for a while now and have made a start on modding my SPC900. The information that you and the other contributors to the thread have made has been invaluable to me, this is my first attempt at projct building and I am happy with the way it's going so far......THANKS to YOU ALL.

I am stuck on one aspect of the build and that is Pin 8/13 Pad 8/13 and pad 10 Pin 10, can't make head nor tail of it.

Would it be posible for you to identify which is which using your previous photos i.e red line is Pad 10 blue line is Pad 8/13 and the same for the other board Pin 10 is purple Pin 8/13 is green i will then know where to terminate them on the varoboard.

Many thanks to you all for your help and support.

Cheers

Pat

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malc-c

malc-c

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If you look closely you'll see that Lee has numbered the pin/pad on each photo. So all you do is locate the pin, bend it so that it no longer makes contact with its corresponding pad, then attach a wire to that pin and another to the corresponding pad. Solder the wire from pin x, and the wire from pad x to the location shown on the diagram.

Hope that helps

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Bladeless

Bladeless

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Hi Malcolm

Thanks for the rapid reply.

All the soldering of wires to the camera circuit boards is complete no problem there at all, my problem is identifiying what wire goes to what location on the vero board. I am following the circuit shown in the Bolton AS article, I beleive Lee has used a modified circuit layout in his diagrams and I am incapable of translating one schematic to the other.

So what I need to be shown is how do I marry up Lee's colour lined photos to Bolton AS's schematic. I hope that makes sense cos I got lost typing it in LOL

p.s Your an early riser.

Once again Many Thanks for your help

Pat

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Bladeless

Bladeless

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Hi Malcolm

I think the penny has just droped can you tell me if my deductions are correct....

Pad 10 (shutter) = Pin7

Pin 10 (shutter) = Base7

Pin 8/13 (gate) = Base9

Pad 8/13 (gate) = Pin9

now the 4am fugg has gone I think "I can see clearly now"

All the best

Pat

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malc-c

malc-c

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It's hard to confirm without seeing your stripboard layout, in essence what happens is that when RTS is taken high, the transistors are turned on and the connection between pin / pad 8/13 is made.

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Bladeless

Bladeless

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Hi Malcolm

Great thats what I eventualy arrived at.

Just waiting for the box and transistors to arrive hope to have it built by the weekend.

I will let you know of my progress.

Many thanks to all the contributers on this thread and SPECIAL THANKS to Malcolm for holding my hand through this project, "long may your blades spin"

All the very best

Pat

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malc-c

malc-c

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SPECIAL THANKS to Malcolm for holding my hand through this project, "long may your blades spin"

All the very best

Pat

LOL - Pat your're welcome.. keep us posted on how the build goes. If you get stuck or for any reason you blow a component, drop me a PM and I'll send you a few spare transistors !

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Bladeless

Bladeless

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Hi Lee

Yes I used both your modified schematic along with the colour pictures and a copy of the Bolton AS schematic to arrive at the correct pin outs, Malcolm confirmed my results with his diagram .

Without you boys putting up the information you have I would have read through the thread and thought what a good idea and left it at that but you made it seem so easy I had to give it a try, so thanks to you and others I may have a working astro cam by the weekend.

Cheers

Pat

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The Sailor

The Sailor

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I do believe I have a pontentiometer already installed but as the wiring of my camera has come adrift I cannot check it. If anyone who is handy with a soldering iron would like to do it and at the same time check and copy this potentiometer layout I would be so happy :D .

Jim

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maub

maub

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Hi Everyone,

My first post.

I have been reading this thread with great interest and decided to try a modification myself. I ordered the components last week and did the mod over the weekend. Thanks to everone's efforts the mod went relatively smoothly. I have not been able to test it yet as the serial/usb cable has not yet arrived. Unfortunately I ordered, and installed, a 500mW zenner diode instead of a 1.3 or 5W zenner. Does anyone know if this will be a problem? Bitsbox only supply 9.2V or 12V diodes for the higher ratings.

Regards

Maurice

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Bladeless

Bladeless

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Hi Malcolm

I think all has gone well except for having to work nights last week so unable to try it out on the scope and now I have a week off the weather closes in.... only to be expected !!!. Still when it gets to see the sky I will post the results.

Thanks to ALL for your help and suport.

Regards

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Gina

Gina

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I have an SPC880NC flashed to 900 by Morgan together with their adapter, so I shall be attempting the mod before long. I also have another webcam for which I have instructions for long exposure mod but that webcam is much more difficult to mod, needing SMD legs unsoldering and lifting off the the PCB and tiny tracks cut. In that case all the circuitry is on one small PCB rather than the two bigger ones.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Tom How

Tom How

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just wondering is there anyway you can use a potentiometer to control the amp off mode instead of the zener diode? and give you more control over the amp glow?

I have not modified a webcam for years ( although I still use them for guiding) but about 5 years ago I wrote this:

Direct Bias Amp Off Experiments for SC1 and SC3 modified Toucam webcams

A potentiometer is used in the Direct Bias injection amp-off modifications which can be used to completely eliminate amp glow in modified webcams.

Mind you - this was back on toucams, I've never tried it on the newer philips cameras.

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