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Everything posted by mrmoo

  1. As requested in a recent message see attached cad files from the deep distance past. SCOPEMOUNT.zip
  2. mrmoo

    80 GTL 3

    it lookes good but I don't ike it
  3. The current is milliamps, even a 250mW would be fine. Must be near 11v though.
  4. It's a registry entry. You'll often find that switching port forces the OS to install drivers again. It's first thing I try in a case like this. Glad to help.
  5. I can see why it causes problems, it's a nomenclature refering to the controller chips pads & pins. Dating way back to the earliest mods where they lifted component legs.
  6. Why confused? It's doing exactly as you'd expect. Vista et al have generic drivers or gets them. Some good, some bad, but the OS does its best to use the device. XP doesn't have the same driver support. As I said when you flashed it, it became a different device. Now you've probably managed to register the wrong driver against it. You need to uninstall all the drivers in XP, clean them out. Reboot, reinstall the new drivers and start again.
  7. Code 10 is a generic fault code, used when windows hasn't a clue. Usually when you don't have a driver or the wrong one. The fact that it is asking for a driver as an unknown device is good. If it was flash wiped it would just be doa. Maybe you could try it in a newer OS, Windows 7 and see if it loads a generic driver?
  8. Fan will stop that and noise getting worse as it warms up. But it won't make them better, no.
  9. I suspect he's following the flashing guide so still in XP, use these. http://download.p4c.philips.com/files/s/spc900nc_00/spc900nc_00_dxp_eng.zip
  10. Yeah but at that point it was an 880, it's not any more. The fact it's an unknown device says its functioning but needs drivers. I'll bet you flashed it a 900 and need to install the specific 900 drivers. It'll then reappear.
  11. Then you haven't installed the correct drivers and WCRmac won't see anything.
  12. You had them right, the little metal tang is the emitter. Yes that's correct and they look ok.
  13. The track does need cutting under the resistor or its doing nothing, the diode just needs to be across the motor. Before or after the resistor doesn't matter. The pad/pin naming is just there to trip you up for a laugh.
  14. If I read that right then nope. Where you had the white swap it for the red, and the yellow for the blue. With two core screened, the shielding should go to pin 5 on the DB9, the other end of the screen goes to the negative. There's no need to connect the signal to the protective ground. Switch looks ok, next time I'll donate you one of my kits it'll be quicker, only kidding. You'll get there.
  15. Just trying to follow it all. Ok, your white (PAD8/13) should go to the side with pins sticking out. Same goes for the rest, all back to front. Swap red for white and blue for yellow.
  16. The value of the resistor should really be chosen on the fans current and the voltage drop you want. The 5v fan's I use don't need slowing imo and they don't take a lot less before they stall. You may be fine, but don't be surprised if you need to change the value. 0.06A 5v fan will drop to around 3v with a 56R @ 0.07W so 500mw is more than enough.
  17. Brown, Black, Black, Red, - Brown = 10kΩ 1% Green, Blue, Black, Gold, - Brown = 56Ω 1% (although there's no fan so that and the suppressor diode it's kinda superfluous.)
  18. Black lead goes to the negative connection on the board, check continuity back to the cam and the screen of the serial port. Check the voltage on both sides of the RTS/DTR diodes, switch the control signal on and you should +ve appear on both sides of the diode. Check the voltage on the far left transistor base (middle), you should see something like 3.3vdc drop to zero when the RTS control signal comes on. Check the output voltage of the zener (after the cathode marked side) or at the Q3 base wire watch for a drop to 11v or so when the DTR is switched on. Routinely you'd want to check all those things on any newly modded cam. Like I said, to be sure make sure the cam is working normally detached from the control board. First place I'd look and my money would be on a short at the cam side, you've used quite large wire it would be very easy to bridge something accidentally.
  19. It makes no difference or mix of signal transistors used tbh. So long as they're orientated correctly. If for some reason the circuit isn't switching the cam just acts in normal mode. Not sure what's going on there, check the voltages as I said. All else fails check you haven't shorted the cam out. Back to basics, disconnect the pad/pin wires. Short the pairs out and check the cam functions normally.
  20. To check the function of the circuit, when switching from standard mode to LX make sure 5vdc is appearing on the RTS/DTR diodes. After that check the zener goes low from 15.4vdc to around 11vdc and the 8/13 transistor base goes from 3.3vdc to zero.
  21. Blimey that's some diode you got in there, sorry I know that's no help. Do you have a multimeter? There are a few voltages to check that signals are present and in the right place.
  22. That's great, always keen to see how these turn out. If anyone's interested I've have some DIY kits based on the transistor design.http://photobucket.com/SPC900NC
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