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Webcam Mod wiring

malc-c

By malc-c
in DIY Astronomer

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malc-c

malc-c

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Lee - I'm sure something like a 2N3904 should work - They appear to be general purpose amplifier transistors. I can't see why a 5W zenner (1N5348) is required... 5 watts ! - I've opted for a 1.3 BZ zenner of 11v to see if that works.

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leenewtoastro

leenewtoastro

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community spirit. PLEASE DO YOUR OWN CONFIRMATION OF SUITABILITY

5 x 10k resistors

3 x BC548 transistors maplins P/c QB73Q (BC548B) OR 2N3904NTYPE P/c QR40T (if you use the latter you need to spin the transitor round due the different BCE config)

3 x 1N4148 diodes maplins P/c QL80B

1 x 1N5348 diode (ZD11V) maplins P/c AY71N (1N5349) OR 1.3W 11V BZV85C P/c N46BZ

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malc-c

malc-c

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Lee - you don't need to connect the red wire to +5. Just use RTS, DTR and GND

It's hard to tell if you've built yours correctly.. I used a solderless breadboard where you plug the components in - bit messy but I have a working SC1.5 modded camera on my desk :) -- I used 2N3904's which you have to place the other way round due to the pins (CBE being the other way round) - but it all works.

Let me know how you get on...

EDIT - just followed your build through - seems fine -

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malc-c

malc-c

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Yes - if you don't want the fan then the 56R and diode can be left out.

Got mine working :hello2:

It's huge as Maplin didn't have the right size box (one wasn't deep enough, the other could house two cameras in + the kitchen sink !) - and I mounted the camera upside down... but then in space there is no right way up !

Just got to find an old film canister... or buy one of those screw in connectors for a tenner...

Keep us posted with your progress

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leenewtoastro

leenewtoastro

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champion malc. will do. lost on the pad and pin at the mo!

to me pad would seem like the female and pin the male side however the guides suggest other wise. not only that logically counting the connect its pins 7 and 9 not 8 and 10! :hello2: don't even know what 8/13 means?

SPCPINS.jpg

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spc900PAD.jpg

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malc-c

malc-c

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That's really neat... get this down to a fine art and I bet you could make some beer money.... makes those modified cameras on e-bay for £100 look very bulky !

I'm not going to post pictures of mine... it's know where near as professional as yours... :hello2: - Mind you I struggle now with my eyesight so I'm amazed mine actually worked !

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mrmoo

mrmoo

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It's huge as Maplin didn't have the right size box (one wasn't deep enough, the other could house two cameras in + the kitchen sink !) - and I mounted the camera upside down... but then in space there is no right way up !

Wanted one of these. Made it as compact as I could, works well. Removed mic and led. Had to buy a few components in minimum quantities. I've 2 cams left over so might as well convert them as well. Used a small Maplins project box no problem, but does need some skill in soldering.

gedc0857q.jpggedc0878.jpggedc0881p.jpggedc0882.jpggedc0884.jpggedc0885l.jpg

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malc-c

malc-c

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Mr Moo - really nice. I was looking for something like that. But all the small cases were about as deep as the two camera boards on their own, excluding the USB connector. The box that was deep enough is about 6" long ! Might have a go at re-housing if I can un-stick the housing after supergluing it in !

Lee - something is wrong - none of the circuitry should get hot, and the camera PCB should only get slightly warm....if at all.

Check the orientation of the transistors - the drawback of working from a diagram such as the one in that PDF is that non of the pin outs are marked. The 2n3904 I used had the collector and emitter transposed compared to the BC548's he used. Check for shorts, and make sure where you have broken the tracks that the tracks are actually broken. My guess is you've missed one and it's shorting out somewhere

OH and when the switch is closed the camera is in normal mode, when open the switching is done by the software / circuitry

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leenewtoastro

leenewtoastro

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hmmmm double checked tracks and breaks all fine. its definately warm but not hot.

why do ppl fit fans then ?

assuming the transistors are not switching whats different from before is the 2 pins we have broken are now connected to each other via 2 10k resistors in series so 20k! ?

i did spin the transistors as per your note and a quick google said they have BCE other way round. anyway to test with a multimeter?

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