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mrmoo

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About mrmoo

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    Nr Selby
  1. The current is milliamps, even a 250mW would be fine. Must be near 11v though.
  2. It's a registry entry. You'll often find that switching port forces the OS to install drivers again. It's first thing I try in a case like this. Glad to help.
  3. I can see why it causes problems, it's a nomenclature refering to the controller chips pads & pins. Dating way back to the earliest mods where they lifted component legs.
  4. Why confused? It's doing exactly as you'd expect. Vista et al have generic drivers or gets them. Some good, some bad, but the OS does its best to use the device. XP doesn't have the same driver support. As I said when you flashed it, it became a different device. Now you've probably managed to register the wrong driver against it. You need to uninstall all the drivers in XP, clean them out. Reboot, reinstall the new drivers and start again.
  5. Code 10 is a generic fault code, used when windows hasn't a clue. Usually when you don't have a driver or the wrong one. The fact that it is asking for a driver as an unknown device is good. If it was flash wiped it would just be doa. Maybe you could try it in a newer OS, Windows 7 and see if it loads a generic driver?
  6. Fan will stop that and noise getting worse as it warms up. But it won't make them better, no.
  7. I suspect he's following the flashing guide so still in XP, use these. http://download.p4c.philips.com/files/s/spc900nc_00/spc900nc_00_dxp_eng.zip
  8. Yeah but at that point it was an 880, it's not any more. The fact it's an unknown device says its functioning but needs drivers. I'll bet you flashed it a 900 and need to install the specific 900 drivers. It'll then reappear.
  9. Then you haven't installed the correct drivers and WCRmac won't see anything.
  10. You had them right, the little metal tang is the emitter. Yes that's correct and they look ok.
  11. The track does need cutting under the resistor or its doing nothing, the diode just needs to be across the motor. Before or after the resistor doesn't matter. The pad/pin naming is just there to trip you up for a laugh.
  12. If I read that right then nope. Where you had the white swap it for the red, and the yellow for the blue. With two core screened, the shielding should go to pin 5 on the DB9, the other end of the screen goes to the negative. There's no need to connect the signal to the protective ground. Switch looks ok, next time I'll donate you one of my kits it'll be quicker, only kidding. You'll get there.
  13. Just trying to follow it all. Ok, your white (PAD8/13) should go to the side with pins sticking out. Same goes for the rest, all back to front. Swap red for white and blue for yellow.
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