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Freezing temps and motors


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Hi folks,

I was wondering if anyone has had any experience with using GoTo motors in sub zero temps. We all know how to deal with cold optics, but I'm a bit afraid of using my scope in these cold conditions in case the motors freeze and causes any damage. Are the motors hardy enough to withstand hours of freezing temps without seizing up? Maybe I'm worrying unnecessarily but I thought I'd ask.

Cheers!

John

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Yes, the controller's LCD screen is excruciatingly slow at cold temperatures, and the colder the slower, but that doesn't bother me much because I do everything via EQMod.

One thing you might want to be careful with, is USB extension cords. I have some 5 meter long ones, that fail when it's very cold, unless connected to a powered USB hub on the computer's side.

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My CPC 1100 lives outside in an unheated observatory all the time and has been used all night at -5 degrees. No problem with motors or electrics but last winter during a very cold spell I noticed that some of the lubricant from the primary mirror carriage had separated out and dripped onto the secondary mirror - lesson learned about storing the scope with the OTA horizontal or slightly above horizontal.

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No problems with motors ... the handset display goes slow & dim at cold temps (keep the handet in a sock when not in use) and batteries can struggle to maintain current, certainly their capacity is well below that marked when the temperature falls below zero.

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during a very cold spell I noticed that some of the lubricant from the primary mirror carriage had separated out and dripped onto the secondary mirror - lesson learned about storing the scope with the OTA horizontal or slightly above horizontal.

The grease seperation happens more frequently in high temps.

If you store the scope with the tube pointing up, seperated grease from the baffle tube will run across the primary mirror. Store the tube pointing down at about 45 degrees, so that the seperated grease will run down the baffle tube to the "top" end and then drip onto the inside of the tube, not the corrector plate or secondary mirror.

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