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Everything posted by Johnboy

  1. Hi folks, I have the following items for sale: Sky Watcher 12.5mm Illuminated Eyepiece. Boxed - £25.00 Revelation Astro 2x Barlow - £15.00 SOLD 2" Light Pollution Filter. Boxed - £10.00 SOLD 1.25" Optics UHC Filter. Boxed - 10.00 SOLD Revelation Astro 1.25" Focal Reducer. In a plastic case - £8.00 SOLD Baader1.25" UV/IR - Cut/L Filter. In a plastic case - £20.00 2 x Vixen NPL 30mm Eyepieces. Boxed - £22.00 each or £40.00 the pair if bought together. SOLD BST Explorer ED 25mm, 60 degree eyepieces. Boxed. £22.00 Brightstar Mammut L429 colour cam
  2. Removed from sale due to unexpected circumstances. Thank you.
  3. Skywatcher 2" O-111 filter for asronomy. Boxed and in excellent condition. Leaving astronomy hence sale. £30.00 includes postage. UK only please. Payment by Paypal please.
  4. Skywatcher 12.5mm 1.25" illuminated astronomy eyepiece. Boxed and in fully working condition. Leaving astronomy hence sale. £27.00 includes postage. UK only please. Payment via Paypal please.
  5. Skywatcher Nirvana 16mm 1.25" eyepiece. Boxed and in good condition. Leaving astronomy hence sale. £55.00 includes postage. UK only please. Payment via Paypal please.
  6. Barely used Brightstar Mammut colour camera for astronomy. Superb condition complete with cables and box. Stopping astronomy hence sale. £110.00 Price includes signed for postage. Payment by Paypal please.
  7. Hi all, I will be advertising all my gear over the next few days. This is a William Optics 7.5 - 22mm zoom eyepiece. Hardly used. Lovely condition. £80.00 including signed for postage within the UK. Thanks for looking. John
  8. Thanks for the replies folks. I'll get onto Celestron and see what they have to say. Cheers, John
  9. Hi folks, A couple of years ago I bought the above camera to have a go at imaging the moon and planets. I have used it a few times with good results but last night I found I couldn't get Jupiter anywhere near focussed. So I tried the moon which was OK but not as clear as I'd had it in the past. I inspected the camera and found the plastic body next to the sensor had melted. A very small part of the plastic had gone onto the glass in front of the sensor. (Not sure if this is just glass or a filter.) I was wondering if anyone else has had (or heard) of this problem with similar cameras. I didn'
  10. Hi all, The main additon to my CPC 1100 is an Earthwin Power/Filter switch. This attaches to the diagonal and has a Barlow and Reducer fitted which can be slid into the light path as needed. It also has holders for two filters which can also be slipped into place. This makes power and filter changes so much easier as they can be done in a second at the touch of a button rather than unscrewing and fiddling around in the dark. Regards, John
  11. Sometimes when there is a nice clear sky during the day I think 'Yes! A nice clear sky for stargazing tonight'. Then when it clouds over I'm quite relieved and think 'Yes a nice bottle of wine instead'. That way I don't feel so guilty not going out.
  12. Johnboy


    I met her a few weeks ago when I was lucky enough to be in the audience on 'Stargazing Live - Back To Earth'. After the show she took time to chat to me, asking what equipment I had and what my astronomy related interests are. She was genuinely interested and was excited and looking forward to presenting 'The Sky At Night'. Good luck to her. Regards, John
  13. Hi, I find with my webcam the view on the laptop tends to take time updating. In other words I have to tweak the focus knob then wait a few seconds before the result appears on the screen. If I go to fast the view on the screen lags behind slightly. Turn the knob a little at a time and wait for the result to appear before turning again. Regards John
  14. I went into my garden and said 'cheese!'
  15. Hi, I have the WO binoviewer. My advice is to make sure the eyepieces you buy are not to wide (in size), as the space between them side by side may not be wide enough for your nose. It sounds silly but can be a real problem if you can't get your eyes close enough to the eyepieces because your nose doesn't fit between them. I like the TMB's from Skys The Limit. http://www.skysthelimit.org.uk/telescope%20eyepieces.html Hope this helps. John
  16. Hi Andy, I downloaded a trial version of 'AstroArt' which has given me a modicum of success. Using the 'preprocessing' section I loaded in about 60 x 20 second images of M1 which I took earlier in the year. (No darks, flats etc. yet.) I chose the 'Median' setting (leaving everything else at default). This gave me a nicely stacked correctly coloured image! I couldn't believe my eyes. Using the histogram to stretch I got quite a nice picture. My wife took a look and asked if that was one of my images (she knows how deflated I have been and was truly amazed at the picture. She even told me to buy
  17. It shows what you can get with a single exposure. May I ask what scope/mount you are using, please Andy. I know my set up isn't anywhere near correct yet (fork mounted/no wedge) so short exposures are all I can do at the moment.
  18. Hi Andy, I have had a *little* success. I loaded 5 x 20 second RAW images of M82 into NWS and managed to get a colour picture. (Albeit a rubbish one, really!) Working on one image at a time I firstly debayered, then I adjusted the colour to get something a little stronger. After that I did a stretch using the 'Histogram' option which actually made the image look dreadful but after adjusting the histogram sliders I got something quite acceptable. After making sure all images were stretched exactly the same I then stacked them. Not too bad but some of the stars are of varying colours, (Maybe dar
  19. Hi Andy Thanks for keeping me updated with your ideas and progress. I'm on hold at the moment because I think I have tried all ways of de-bayering my images (with various software packages) but the odd and inconsistent results have now got me baffled. Being new to this I have come to the end of my knowledge. I know once the offset values are correct they shouldn't be changed again, but one images' setting is not correct for another. I also did a daytime shot of some coloured containers that I set up in my garden, but can't get any colour whatsoever from it. (Yet the image of M82 above did sho
  20. Hi Andy, Thanks for looking at my image. Like Steve says my camera appears to be producing inconsistent data. I have copied your values from the screenshots and have a very different image. (Screenshot attached). No matter what I do it seems to change with each capture somehow. Thanks for all your help with this. Regards, John
  21. Hi Andy, I wish I could get something that is as good as your image. I have attached a 20 second exposure of M82 from a couple of nights ago and no matter what I try I can't get any colour at all. I have even stacked about 100 images and tried to debayer them using different offsets but get nothing. Would a single 20 sec exposure show any hint of colour? Can you do anything with my image and if so please tell me what you did!! Thanks for taking the time to help. Best wishes, John m82 20secs1L20.fit
  22. Hi billhinge, Thanks for the pointer. I will try the CMYG debayer script and let you know how I go on. The data I have at the moment is minimal but hopefully enough to help me find my way around the different aspects of imaging until I get the chance to get out under the stars again! Have you tried 'Nebulosity'? That seems a good piece of software and more within my price range. Thanks again, John
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